Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture S/S 2022 Paris

[chinsumo]

 

[eugenius]

Just ffwd to 35:28.

 

[Salvatore]

First of all, the music was extremely irritating for me. Beyond that, there were some interesting silhouettes and techniques, but not really my favourite.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Well...I have to admit I'm glad he took interest in the more evening, bourgeois element of Gaultier's work. I was mostly expecting it to be entirely about his Enfent Terrible days, which I'm very sick of seeing everyone reference that era.

It was kind of nice to see some things that echoed back to JPG's glorious Couture collections, circa 2001-2002.

However, some of it does just look a little sloppy. He, like most designers now, do not have the eye for something looking truly finished and complete.

There are a handful of gorgeous looks. I love the completely laced corset gowns. Very beautiful.

 

[Machinegumm]

Some really nice pieces on display! The music was grating though.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Yes, the salmon-coloured swirling corset that ran the length of the gown was sublime.

Thank goodness it came alive and still understated by the finale— without a hint of logo, starting with the poison ivy green gown. Could do without the completely out-of-place butterfly wrap that was too literal of the air and sky concept, but those finale gowns were superbly old-world artisanal haute couture goodness. So rare to see this brand craftsmanship these days in HC.

He gave a solid presentation and the absolute absence of any street element is such a blessing to see. (Although that tired hall needs to go. Would be lovely if he returned to the ground level, upfront and personal setting of when he started his HC shows.

 

[Lola701]

Interesting and frustrating are the words I would use to describe this collection…

It was interesting because he had a different take on Gaultier. He referenced Gaultier Haute Couture and not the usual (tired at this point) ones. I saw some very inventive dresses that will make an impact. Deconstruction was pushed to a new degree because he did it on flou but on very sculpted silhouettes.

The frustrating part for came from the presentation, the casting and the lack of clean tailoring. I needed one or two pantsuits and a simple cocktail dress to create some tension because it felt very one note.

But this is definitely a welcomed surprise. He did his thing!

 

[dior_couture1245]

The frustrating part for came from the presentation, the casting and the lack of clean tailoring. I needed one or two pantsuits and a simple cocktail dress to create some tension because it felt very one note.

This is so true. I've been clear here in all these Couture threads this season what is wrong with designers now, and this is also a key element that is missing. The insight into creating a visual narrative...I don't mean a collection backstory...I mean, the collection has highs and lows, it moves from look one to the end, the eye gets a break, and then it's stimulated, and then a break again etc. etc. To quote Diana Vreeland, "the eye has to travel." When everything is the same note, even the most special looks lose their impact.

I would have deleted here some of the more repetitive looks, stuck with the strongest iteration of each idea instead of showing 3-4 of each idea, and then infused, as you said, some fabulous pantsuits and a glamorous cocktail dress. Would have been a strong collection.

But, all in all, I'm not mad at this. I will give him credit for attempting "gorgeous." It's like that word has become a dirty one in fashion. I'm getting flashes of it here, and I like it.

 

[eugenius]

Lola, that was my big disagreement w/ the show: where's the suiting for daywear, and the cocktail dresses? Even at his cheesiest, those were definitely his strengths.

All very good, regardless. Sacai did well. He did well. Let's hope his third pick keeps it up.

So let's see. Wales Bonner did a few pieces for Maria's Dior, which looked good. Dries teamed up w/ Lacroix, and that looked great. Gaultier's asking other designer's to take a stab at his couture, to great results. I like this trend, a lot! (Dear Virginie could probably benefit greatly from these collabs. Lord knows she needs help.)

And I actually like the music. It reminds me a lot of Ritchie Hawtin.

 

[dior_couture1245]

And I actually like the music. It reminds me a lot of Ritchie Hawtin.

I kind of liked it, too. I'm always a bit of a sucker for an opera remix.

 

[Phuel]

Suiting isn’t Glenn’s strong point. I can understand why he avoided it here. The opening set was so monotonous— with those ankle-length skirts that do no favours for any women, and absolutely looks tortured on those inexperienced girls, and wearing the most hideously cheap-looking platform mules to boot LOL The structured hip was unexpectedly a subtle, nice touch that saved the opening set.

Classic Gaultier knee-length would have lifted so many of first set of looks.

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[eugenius]

THAT dress looks like the Corona-virus in couture form....

(Thanks for adding the images, vogue28!)

 

[Toni Ahlgren]

Ok, so maybe you can't have MCB or Imaan for your show, or anyone close to that, it's not that simple. Seeing how it was for the models to walk in those dresses and those stripper shoes, just painful.

 

[jeanclaude]

Not bad, I was expecting another couture disaster! There are some interesting looks here and there.

But I think both the show and lookbook feel very sterile for a Gaultier collection. That little shock factor that JPG always delivered as his signature is missed here.

 

[dior_couture1245]

But I think both the show and lookbook feel very sterile for a Gaultier collection. That little shock factor that JPG always delivered as his signature is missed here.

It is a little cold, on the whole. JPG's work was always very warm.

 

[Phuel]

They should never have released these lookbook photos. It simply exposes just what a weak cast of plain janes, with absolutely no presence they are. Shame since Gaultier at his best had always cast the most stunning MOC. And they’re really wearing stripper shoes— including the ultimate stripper shoe: The clear acrylic platforms LOOOL

At least 10 of those looks needed to be edited out and the offering would have been stronger.

 

[THD96]

I like the dark, sensual, romanticism mood of the collection. It's good that he explore the different aspect of Gaultier. The last dress is stunning. But I can do without the first 4 dresses, they are too similar.

This collection make me wanting Olivier Theyskens as his next choice. Please someone make it happen.

That being said, I ready for someone to explore his Hermès year and make it couture. I feel like people kinda forget and moved on from his Hermès years but some pieces of his tenure already have that couture qualities.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Jean-Claude and dior are right on— as solid as some of these designs are, it’s utterly sterile and cold. The models are lacking of course, and the footwear are hideous, but there's also something else missing. Even stripped down to its minimal and simplest, Gaultier’s designs breathed, radiated, and smouldered. His S/S 2002 showing still pulses with relevance 2 decades later— even on such low-res. And the cast of women and men...