Jean Paul Gaultier S/S 2026 Paris
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Blaiseybabey
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Ok, I am going to write something lengthier here given I do have a very close attachment to the house. JPG was the house that was über inspiring and made me dream of fashion. I actually wished to work with him one day and I was sending my sketches there just to get myself into the rigour of actually designing...something (I don't do that anymore, in fact, my career is something totally different now and I like it).
So about the elephant in the room - that onesie with the "sausage" out. I swear to God, a few days ago when I noticed an IG post with the announcement of the day, it crossed my mind while doing the dishes "God, I hope he's not going to create his own interpretation of Gaultier onesies/prints with mens body to make one with a literal d**k out, given his boobs work". And I was pretty correct. Just didn't think this would materialise. It's just incredible how predictable some people can be. Does it mean that the entire industry has become predictable? Possibly, but why in such a bad way.
We've experienced for a while the absence of JPG from his own brand so some other new designers could actually look at the codes and bring their own interpretations and most of the did an amazing job (I love Julien Dossena's collection for the house. And Martens' take on the archive was fantastic, too.). The guy is now the sole direction-setter of it all and I feel concerned. The collection is just weird and pointless for a revival. It has nudges to specific things but there's no good interpretation of that. Where the hell is tailoring? Where the hell is that Frenchness? That playfulness and fun, kitsch executed in a smart way and brought to live technically perfect? That first look with the stuffed boobs just lost me completely and I knew it was going to be meh. But just meh - not entirely bad. It all feels so cheap and graduatey. Gimmicky and attempting to be artsy?
I did see JPG giving him a happy hug. I don't know. Maybe there's a reason why I don't work in fashion. Maybe I've got a bad taste and I don't get what the fashion critics see? Maybe I should be lucky I don't work there anymore? Maybe I am just "one of the haters" here. But a living dream to me, continued by some talent has sort of been killed. It's not like I will be looking forward with excitement to another show to see what great it's going to be. It will be more of a check on how more offensive the guy has gone. I am just sad.
So about the elephant in the room - that onesie with the "sausage" out. I swear to God, a few days ago when I noticed an IG post with the announcement of the day, it crossed my mind while doing the dishes "God, I hope he's not going to create his own interpretation of Gaultier onesies/prints with mens body to make one with a literal d**k out, given his boobs work". And I was pretty correct. Just didn't think this would materialise. It's just incredible how predictable some people can be. Does it mean that the entire industry has become predictable? Possibly, but why in such a bad way.
We've experienced for a while the absence of JPG from his own brand so some other new designers could actually look at the codes and bring their own interpretations and most of the did an amazing job (I love Julien Dossena's collection for the house. And Martens' take on the archive was fantastic, too.). The guy is now the sole direction-setter of it all and I feel concerned. The collection is just weird and pointless for a revival. It has nudges to specific things but there's no good interpretation of that. Where the hell is tailoring? Where the hell is that Frenchness? That playfulness and fun, kitsch executed in a smart way and brought to live technically perfect? That first look with the stuffed boobs just lost me completely and I knew it was going to be meh. But just meh - not entirely bad. It all feels so cheap and graduatey. Gimmicky and attempting to be artsy?
I did see JPG giving him a happy hug. I don't know. Maybe there's a reason why I don't work in fashion. Maybe I've got a bad taste and I don't get what the fashion critics see? Maybe I should be lucky I don't work there anymore? Maybe I am just "one of the haters" here. But a living dream to me, continued by some talent has sort of been killed. It's not like I will be looking forward with excitement to another show to see what great it's going to be. It will be more of a check on how more offensive the guy has gone. I am just sad.
Lola701
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He simply has a different relationship to his work, his legacy, his life than what, we fans, have.
I don’t think that JPG is experiencing his shows the same way that outside people do.
Maybe he was actually surprised and felt that he looked new, which, may not have always been the case with what he saw before. And tbh, it’s a break from the nostalgia.
Sometimes people loves the idea of what’s next.
But that doesn’t discredit or dismiss your opinion and your feelings.
Phuel
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^^^ I wonder if it’s always seeing it for the first time at the showing for Jean Paul— for both his couture, his then guest-designers for his namesake, and now for this??? Surely it can’t be? He had to have seen the production in various stages during the process? Perhaps I’m too worn, too cynical, too suspicious at this point, so I’d have to conclude that this installment, and this pageant exists only as an optimized strategy to push just the rebranding to a much less demanding generation— because there is literally nothing RTW to sell here— a new line of fragrances? Still, this is the rebranding that Jean Paul is good with?
Frankly, Jean Paul had lost it a while ago for me, and I’ve never liked his fragrance, so this doesn’t bother me other than it seems desperately grasping for relevance while cheapening his legacy. Just that after seeing how Tom Ford was in a similar point with his brand’s status, and Tom seemed extremely unhappy with Peter’s efforts, he was replaced with Haider, which came off so harsh, even cold to me even when I didn’t like Peter’s work. But Tom did made the right creative and business decision ultimately, because Haider is so right for what the brand needs. Not so much for Duran at Gaultier.
Frankly, Jean Paul had lost it a while ago for me, and I’ve never liked his fragrance, so this doesn’t bother me other than it seems desperately grasping for relevance while cheapening his legacy. Just that after seeing how Tom Ford was in a similar point with his brand’s status, and Tom seemed extremely unhappy with Peter’s efforts, he was replaced with Haider, which came off so harsh, even cold to me even when I didn’t like Peter’s work. But Tom did made the right creative and business decision ultimately, because Haider is so right for what the brand needs. Not so much for Duran at Gaultier.
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