Jean Paul Gaultier S/S 2026 Paris

[Xone]

Hopefully next season he decide to show clothes....

 

[MDNA]

If I were Lulu I would call my agent and say no in the middle of fitting. 🤡

 

[Blaiseybabey]

Ok, I am going to write something lengthier here given I do have a very close attachment to the house. JPG was the house that was über inspiring and made me dream of fashion. I actually wished to work with him one day and I was sending my sketches there just to get myself into the rigour of actually designing...something (I don't do that anymore, in fact, my career is something totally different now and I like it).

So about the elephant in the room - that onesie with the "sausage" out. I swear to God, a few days ago when I noticed an IG post with the announcement of the day, it crossed my mind while doing the dishes "God, I hope he's not going to create his own interpretation of Gaultier onesies/prints with mens body to make one with a literal d**k out, given his boobs work". And I was pretty correct. Just didn't think this would materialise. It's just incredible how predictable some people can be. Does it mean that the entire industry has become predictable? Possibly, but why in such a bad way.

We've experienced for a while the absence of JPG from his own brand so some other new designers could actually look at the codes and bring their own interpretations and most of the did an amazing job (I love Julien Dossena's collection for the house. And Martens' take on the archive was fantastic, too.). The guy is now the sole direction-setter of it all and I feel concerned. The collection is just weird and pointless for a revival. It has nudges to specific things but there's no good interpretation of that. Where the hell is tailoring? Where the hell is that Frenchness? That playfulness and fun, kitsch executed in a smart way and brought to live technically perfect? That first look with the stuffed boobs just lost me completely and I knew it was going to be meh. But just meh - not entirely bad. It all feels so cheap and graduatey. Gimmicky and attempting to be artsy?

I did see JPG giving him a happy hug. I don't know. Maybe there's a reason why I don't work in fashion. Maybe I've got a bad taste and I don't get what the fashion critics see? Maybe I should be lucky I don't work there anymore? Maybe I am just "one of the haters" here. But a living dream to me, continued by some talent has sort of been killed. It's not like I will be looking forward with excitement to another show to see what great it's going to be. It will be more of a check on how more offensive the guy has gone. I am just sad.

 

[Lola701]

I did see JPG giving him a happy hug. I don't know. Maybe there's a reason why I don't work in fashion. Maybe I've got a bad taste and I don't get what the fashion critics see? Maybe I should be lucky I don't work there anymore? Maybe I am just "one of the haters" here.

He simply has a different relationship to his work, his legacy, his life than what, we fans, have.
I don’t think that JPG is experiencing his shows the same way that outside people do.

Maybe he was actually surprised and felt that he looked new, which, may not have always been the case with what he saw before. And tbh, it’s a break from the nostalgia.

Sometimes people loves the idea of what’s next.

But that doesn’t discredit or dismiss your opinion and your feelings.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ I wonder if it’s always seeing it for the first time at the showing for Jean Paul— for both his couture, his then guest-designers for his namesake, and now for this??? Surely it can’t be? He had to have seen the production in various stages during the process? Perhaps I’m too worn, too cynical, too suspicious at this point, so I’d have to conclude that this installment, and this pageant exists only as an optimized strategy to push just the rebranding to a much less demanding generation— because there is literally nothing RTW to sell here— a new line of fragrances? Still, this is the rebranding that Jean Paul is good with?

Frankly, Jean Paul had lost it a while ago for me, and I’ve never liked his fragrance, so this doesn’t bother me other than it seems desperately grasping for relevance while cheapening his legacy. Just that after seeing how Tom Ford was in a similar point with his brand’s status, and Tom seemed extremely unhappy with Peter’s efforts, he was replaced with Haider, which came off so harsh, even cold to me even when I didn’t like Peter’s work. But Tom did made the right creative and business decision ultimately, because Haider is so right for what the brand needs. Not so much for Duran at Gaultier.

 

[RosesAreRed]

I was speachless. Sunglasses are nice though. Is it archive or DL creation?

I would t be surprised if it’s archive

 

[alwaysademo]

Just rewatched this. I like that all the gimmicks are on the clothes and not the mouth.
I like the arch waisband and the slithering belts.
I think he adds to Gaultier trompe l'oeil.

 

[PDFSD]

I was speachless. Sunglasses are nice though. Is it archive or DL creation?

I would t be surprised if it’s archive

Its a inspiration from this famous Paulette Guinet snakes ones he made his version in dragon.

Paulette Guinet Hand Carved Prototype Gold Leaf SNAKE Sunglasses 1950's

 

[PDFSD]

^^^ I wonder if it’s always seeing it for the first time at the showing for Jean Paul— for both his couture, his then guest-designers for his namesake, and now for this??? Surely it can’t be? He had to have seen the production in various stages during the process? Perhaps I’m too worn, too cynical, too suspicious at this point, so I’d have to conclude that this installment, and this pageant exists only as an optimized strategy to push just the rebranding to a much less demanding generation— because there is literally nothing RTW to sell here— a new line of fragrances? Still, this is the rebranding that Jean Paul is good with?

Frankly, Jean Paul had lost it a while ago for me, and I’ve never liked his fragrance, so this doesn’t bother me other than it seems desperately grasping for relevance while cheapening his legacy. Just that after seeing how Tom Ford was in a similar point with his brand’s status, and Tom seemed extremely unhappy with Peter’s efforts, he was replaced with Haider, which came off so harsh, even cold to me even when I didn’t like Peter’s work. But Tom did made the right creative and business decision ultimately, because Haider is so right for what the brand needs. Not so much for Duran at Gaultier.

Some one like a Olivier Theyskens that's more dark and more serious should do JPG, like HA is not pop and takes himself so seriously it helps to not make TF so frivolous looking.

Same should be tried at JPG if you have someone that already pop & gimmick it end into this , while JPG best shows had also balance of seriousness and chic things with the fun twist.

if not keep it as a fragrance house and occasional jeans drop or colab etc not more.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Some one like a Olivier Theyskens that's more dark and more serious should do JPG, like HA is not pop and takes himself so seriously it helps to not make TF so frivolous looking.

Same should be tried at JPG if you have someone that already pop & gimmick it end into this , while JPG best shows had also balance of seriousness and chic things with the fun twist.

if not keep it as a fragrance house and occasional jeans drop or colab etc not more.

I find that was definitely a missed opportunity, that a designer like Theyskens did not get nominated during the designer-in-residency couture collections - Keeping in mind that the Haider Ackermann collection was understood to be the most buzz-worthy one of them, I think sonething similar would have been the case, had Theyskens done it.

Instead, several years later we get this very odd Duran Lantink debut show and Olivier's weird Boloria thing teased - Both of which don't make me very enthusiastic for a second look…

 

[PDFSD]

I find that was definitely a missed opportunity, that a designer like Theyskens did not get nominated during the designer-in-residency couture collections - Keeping in mind that the Haider Ackermann collection was understood to be the most buzz-worthy one of them, I think sonething similar would have been the case, had Theyskens done it.

Instead, several years later we get this very odd Duran Lantink debut show and Olivier's weird Boloria thing teased - Both of which don't make me very enthusiastic for a second look…

agree 100% misaligned decisions both at JPG and Olivier's weird Boloria thing.
they went for the short term hype.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ They're all in it for the short term hype. Seeing Jean Paul Gaultier going the way of Alexander McQueen in real time, is hard to watch because the truth is even Alexander himself, plundered Jean Paul’s eternal archive. And Jean Paul himself seems fine with such a lowly trajectory of standard at this point, is that more pathetic. Olivier Theyskens’ versatility would’ve been so ideal for Jean Paul’s darker romantic side— but truth is he’s not popular enough these days to hype a house. What people— and sadly Jean Paul being one of those people now, will do to be popular for only for 15 more minutes.

And the revolving door collab drops didn’t wor for the label. Shayne Oliver was one of the last designers for the archive/capsule revisions-- or whatever it was referred to as. It wasn’t awful, just unbearably cliched, and unfortunate that these offerings always revolve around the tired Gaultier tropes of corsetry/pinstripes/trompe-l’oeil/deconstructed denim ad nauseam. It’s this fashion generation that doesn’t understand nuance, subtlety, and complexity— just like Elena and Dilleria’s take on Alexander McQueen always has to be so cartoony gothy.

More unfortunate that with Duran’s instalment, the label is cheaply reduced to a children-playing-dressup gimmick, pushing Skims basics at best but more likely to to push drugstore fragrances. Tragic for a visionary talent and label whose archive continues to be plundered by so many other labels. His is a masterclass in fashion design education and fashion history lesson still rip for the stealing. But you’d never know it by Duran’s budget juvenile costumes.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Looking back over this collection I wonder if it would have been smarter to do a couture collab collection first as his inaugural collection for the house before going into the RTW.

When a house has a couture offering, that should be the debut of the new designer. It offers more freedom but also consideration. Plus you utilised the atelier to its fullest potential and you can see how a designer can actually not just design, but also delegate and oversee. This collection just feels sooooo churned out. IKEA JPG.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ IKEA JPG is so appropriate. We are in the IKEA era of fashion currently: One really has to dig through the insurmountable heap of basic merch to find a handful of solid offerings these days.

If I’m being very generous, Duran is the cub heir to bear Walter Van Beirendonck’s line. They both possess that joy, chaos and exuberance in aura. But once distilled to RTW separates, there’s not much there. Jean Paul at his most potent, never abandoned that insane couture level of tailoring and construction alongside his showmanship for pageantry and theatrics: Visionaries like him, John Galliano and Alexander McQueen will never appear again in our lifetime. Duran attempting couture of Jean Paul’s complexity would be such a mess. And even Jean Paul likely foresee that mess coming. Frankly, it’s been an extremely underwhelming selection of guests for his couture project; only Julien Doseena, Olivier Rousteing and Haider Ackermann were memorable enough, but hardly up to the level of Jean Paul’s very best couture. The rest just felt very much runner-ups when his first choice guest didn’t come through. Just got the unfortunate impression that the greater talents didn’t want to be involved. I can’t claim to know the dealings and hierarchy of this fickle industry that some TFSers have access/insight to, but it just seems like Jean Paul’s status isn’t what it once was.

 

[reese06]

Influencer Lyas in JPG 2026

There’s nothing really to say. The sandals he wore with this are sad. The look is sad and desperate. It’s very “Emily in Paris”

 

[PDFSD]

Influencer Lyas in JPG 2026

There’s nothing really to say. The sandals he wore with this are sad. The look is sad and desperate. It’s very “Emily in Paris”

View attachment 1438438

its the guy that was not invited to the dior show of JWA and did a see watch party made money from it good for him.... and the next day was invited to the resee and got a dior tote book so....... is he a influencer or a fashion critic /journalist the lines are so blurred ...just another attention seeker just wanting to be part of the circus at all cost.

if your critiquing shows like journalist do and want to be respected for it you should have same of refusing of accepting gifts .

 

[fashionmarketeditor]

A cheap clown

 

[Lola701]

its the guy that was not invited to the dior show of JWA and did a see watch party made money from it good for him.... and the next day was invited to the resee and got a dior tote book so....... is he a influencer or a fashion critic /journalist the lines are so blurred ...just another attention seeker just wanting to be part of the circus at all cost.

if your critiquing shows like journalist do and want to be respected for it you should have same of refusing of accepting gifts .

He wants it all.
They all want it all, blue square and green square included.
Maybe blue square is after all the less worse of the 3.

 

[reese06]

I mean he got Carine to open up her bedroom to him. Lol

He’s also hosting a Chanel watch party at a bar here in the city tonight.

I don’t mean hijack but does anyone think it would be possible to be an influencer who calls themselves a critic, build a following, remain critical of shows, still be invited and respected by brands?

In my fantasy world, it would be sickening if someone took gifts from brands, remained critical and still was invited, kind of a self appointed taste maker that brands want there because they’re seen as uncompromising and “cool”. Like you’re in Getty images smiling in a pic with Nicolas and then you get on your TikTok and give a review that the clothes were stiff and clownlike. Lol

 

[yslforever]

He wants it all.
They all want it all, blue square and green square included.
Maybe blue square is after all the less worse of the 3.

Reading green square whining is way worse than blue square being a paid mouthpiece.