Jil Sander Departing Namesake Brand for the Third Time

[Creative]

Bertelli was actually the one who asked Jil to return after the company suffered under Vukmirovic. It's not like she forced them to take her back the second time.

Does that make any difference? The fact is that she came back when Bertelli was still in charge; she could have said no.

 

[VogueDisciple93]

I hope she and her partner are in great health, but when this thread first appeared, my first reaction was " Already?!"

After a little reluctance to her latest come back - mainly because of how the transition was handled - I became a great fan of Jil's work (I've heard not so nice stories about the woman herself). Her F/W 13.14 men's and women's collections were phenomenal. But (possible health reasons aside) seems like mess to be leaving her company for a third time - interestingly her comebacks seem to only last one year. Raises so many questions; why is she leaving again? Why did she come back? Who will take over? Will she return?

 

[Cold]

^^ And not even consider trying? That's just poor character. And yeah, it does make a difference, actually. Figure it out.

JW Anderson is probably onto this

 

[5 8 6]

This is ridicolous at this point, I seriously hope that her reasons to leave the house are valid. I hope the brand won't end up being damaged.

 

[Scott]

Childish? Relentless indignation? I actually like Jil and what she does (in general). The problem for you, I guess, is that I’m not biased. I can like someone and be critical with her or find funny a certain situation in which she is involved, which is something that just veeeeeeery few people in this forum do (no matter if they are models, photographers, designers, editors…). And I don’t know if you know, but when she came back for the first time after having all those problems with Bertelli, he was still in charge of the company.

and bertelli notoriously also played the nice guy, "i'll give you your design freedom" routine,to lure her back. and how could she not return? this was her label at one point,something she started and ran for well over 20 years by herself. i think it would be extremely difficult not to want to associate yourself with the company that bears your own name. this was her livelihood…her life. if you were in her shoes you probably might have a different opinion.

and again,the laughter and the sarcasm is totally unnecessary….because it does appear this time that it's totally different….it's personal. there is in fact a very legitimate rumour that is the health of her longtime partner which would make all your snideness all the more ridiculous.

 

[Cold]

and bertelli notoriously also played the nice guy, "i'll give you your design freedom" routine,to lure her back. and how could she not return? this was her label at one point,something she started and ran for well over 20 years by herself. i think it would be extremely difficult not to want to associate yourself with the company that bears your own name. this was her livelihood…her life. if you were in her shoes you probably might have a different opinion.

and again,the laughter and the sarcasm is totally unnecessary….because it does appear this time that it's totally different….it's personal. there is in fact a very legitimate rumour that is the health of her longtime partner which would make all your snideness all the more ridiculous.

I agree. And knowing that that is the company she built, naturally, there'd be an inclination to exert effort to save it. She at least tried to settle their differences for the sake of the brand, even though it didn't end up lasting long.

Someone said that she was rushed into entering the deal with Bertelli and didn't take time to think about it, but she did thought it through as the next step of wanting to venture out and expand. Bertelli approached her during the time when maximalism was all the rage and the industry was simultaneously in the grip of merger frenzy.

 

[Phuel]

I've always adored Jil's design sensibilities. High fashions are never a necessity-- no matter how exact, masterful and innovative it may be, but Jil's designs are really enduring, everlasting, and luxurious, with great thought, and as softgrey said-- hers are, really "useful" clothes. I still wear pieces of hers from the late 90s-- which, for me, are still her strongest collections to date.

As much as I adore Jil's designs, I don't know her personally, so I don't feel any "sadness" to her departure from the industry-- again. It's a bit dramatic, hyperbole to feel any sadness for someone who is probably quite wealthy who no longer wants to design anymore, and can afford to leave her very prestigious role. Her business for leaving is her own, and I don't really care. I understand the industry has changed a lot in a decade, and truth is, fashion has suffered creatively for it. But Jil is not an innocent, nor is she naive to the business side of things, so she really should have known better when aligning herself with the Prada empire. If she really wants to do things on her own terms, why not take a look at what Alessandro del Acqua has done with No. 21: He's departed from his own label and stronger creatively than ever for it.

I don't care for the label "Jil Sander". lf she comes back (again), doing her thing under a new namesake, It's the piece that matters to me-- not the label that's sewn on it.

 

[TREVOFASHIONISTO]

So now that we hear it wasn't for it not selling since Spring/Summer 2013 did very well and Fall 2013 is doing okay, do you think she just doesn't like her company being run by somebody other than herself?

 

[VersaceVixen009]

Bring Raf back! Bring Raf back! IMO, he brought a lot of life to the brand, created sort of a signature for it. His departure collection was beautiful. Bring him back!

 

[Morphe]

^ Oh honey, you think he's gonna leave f***ing DIOR for JS? Idts.

 

[Littleathquakes]

For reals, that's a downgrade to the infinite degree.

 

[VersaceVixen009]

^ Oh honey, you think he's gonna leave f***ing DIOR for JS? Idts.

No no no. Like someone said before, I think Raf could totally pull a Karl and do two separate brands. It's not going to happen I'm sure, but I'm saying the idea would be nice.

 

[Morphe]

^Sure but managing three brands at the same time? It's exhausting, just look at Marc Jacobs.

 

[ChristianThomas]

No no no. Like someone said before, I think Raf could totally pull a Karl and do two separate brands. It's not going to happen I'm sure, but I'm saying the idea would be nice.

To be honest, I think that would be the worst idea.. I love Raf for Jil Sander probably more than Raf for Dior, but the quality of at least one brand would suffer if he took on Jil as well (probably Jil or his own brand)..

They should try and source some new talent instead of just choosing some other already known designer...

 

[tricotineacetat]

I do believe it will be extremely hard to find a designer that can take on the creative reigns at Jil Sander with the necessary expertise and understanding of what this house stands for and should deliver - There is more to Jil Sander clothes than a minimalist handwriting, it demands for someone with real knowledge in cut and construction to deliver the same depth and longevity of design that Jil Sander herself was known for. Most of the young ones out there are doing incredibly seasonal, trendy clothes and Jil Sander really isn't about that - The company rightfully suffered in the Prada period, with the quality deteriorating and therewith alienating the client that form the core of the label's business.

So, who could do that? Veronique Branquinho, if she was to finally let loose of a few questionable gimmick-y touches she has been sticking for a little too long now, maybe. Naoki Takizawa did wonderfully during his brief stint at Helmut Lang menswear. Narciso Rodriguez would be a dream for the house, he would really up the dressmaking that Jil Sander was never really known for, giving it a much more sensual handwriting. Kostas Murkudis has solid knowledge in tailoring and a lengthy experience designing alongside Helmut Lang in the 90ies as well as successfully directing New York Industries in the early 2000s.

 

[Zazie]

As much as I adore Jil's designs, I don't know her personally, so I don't feel any "sadness" to her departure from the industry-- again. It's a bit dramatic, hyperbole to feel any sadness for someone who is probably quite wealthy who no longer wants to design anymore, and can afford to leave her very prestigious role.

Some like yourself might simply shrug when the designers they respect, admire and look up to vanish from the field of fashion, but others like myself do feel SAD at this loss. I feel SAD that Martin Margiela is gone, that Helmut Lang is gone. I will be sad if Yohji succumbs to financial trouble, or if Hussein Chalayan quits, they have all doneso much to push fashion forward.

I wear their clothes and I want to look forward to their future collections, they're a credit to the industry by delivering creativity, poetry and quality.

I'd appreciate it if you don't denigrate *others'* feelings of sadness as "dramatic hyperbole", just as I would't judge your insouciance as "cold callousness" or some similar insults, ok?

You can speak from your own point of view, but please refrain from your urge to put down the "feelings" of fellow posters, it's rude.

 

[Uemarasan]

That's one less talent in the black hole that fashion has become. This is really unfortunate to hear.

With all the true designers getting along in years, who do we have left? Simons, Slimane, Wang, Tisci. Really? Comparable to Dior, Saint Laurent, Balenciaga, and Givenchy? I feel more sad about the industry than anything else. What a soulless circus.

Maybe these business types should be a little more visionary and look beyond profit as the final say. And look at talent being produced beyond Europe and America. It worked in the 80s when Japanese fashion was embraced. Now everything seems dead on arrival.

 

[Cold]

Gabriele Colangelo, perhaps...

Following Jil Sander’s departure from the eponymous house, the fashion world started betting on her possible heir.

According to rumors fashion designer Gabriele Colangelo will replace Sander as the brand’s creative director.

To date, no official statement has been released on the matter.

vogue.it

 

[Phuel]

Some like yourself might simply shrug when the designers they respect, admire and look up to vanish from the field of fashion, but others like myself do feel SAD at this loss. I feel SAD that Martin Margiela is gone, that Helmut Lang is gone. I will be sad if Yohji succumbs to financial trouble, or if Hussein Chalayan quits, they have all doneso much to push fashion forward.

I wear their clothes and I want to look forward to their future collections, they're a credit to the industry by delivering creativity, poetry and quality.

I'd appreciate it if you don't denigrate *others'* feelings of sadness as "dramatic hyperbole", just as I would't judge your insouciance as "cold callousness" or some similar insults, ok?

You can speak from your own point of view, but please refrain from your urge to put down the "feelings" of fellow posters, it's rude.

There are so many things in this world to feel genuine sadness for-- even within the fashion industry. Sadness for not being able to wear new designs from your favorite designers really shouldn't be one of them.

No one can touch Jil while she is still around and fully competent as a designer, so anyone filling in for her will be-- and as shown by Raf, has been, lesser than her.

I think Jil will return to fashion in time. I hope she'll do it independent of her namesake so that it's genuinely all hers. I hope to see her be more like Alaia in her return. Judging by her last few collections, she still has it in her-- although the last collection looks very much rushed and definitely not her at her most thoughtful best.

 

[Scott]

i had no idea who this guy was…had to search him.

certainly there is an air that would work with jil's style but i don't see anything that really stands out as unique or that would lead you to believe anything unique for JS…everything is a bit same-y. like tricot said,jil wasn't all about merely being minimalist….there was the cutting,the construction,the volumes….all those things are what made jil's work truly stand out distinctively. i don't see that with this guy's work. i kind of agree with zazie,as simpler as his work has become lately we're seeing a side of chalayan that could actually work beautifully at JS. branquinho would be great as well and i've long felt that….but she's just returned to designing again within the last year so i don't if she would be so inclined at this point.