Jil Sander F/W 2022.23 Milan

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Norden]

For me this is a definite improvement on last season(s). I’ve never really been a fan of their work, I often find their fabrication very unflattering and stiff and their shape language to rough and 2D. Here it feels better, it’s all a bit closer to the body and softened with lusher textures. It feels a bit more grown up and their usual color palette works with this kind of 60s reference. It’s a bit ladylike in some areas which deviates from the Jil ethos but still done in a sortof modern way.

It does however kinda look like PS in some areas, and the way the models wear the bags is a cheap styling trick that this collection doesn’t need.

it’s nice to see a grown up collection!

 

[Koibito]

I thought they went Balenciaga at some first looks but then i believe the silhouette is from Jil’s ss13 collection.

Still meh overall.

 

[THD96]

Looks 41, 42 and 43 are my favorite looks in this collection simply because they copy my favorite Céline collection, Fall 2014. The rest are okay, at least the clothes seems to hug the body now, unlike last season where the models swim in tailoring. The first two jackets look like Bar jacket.

Even if I like their works for most of the time (especially the menswear), sometimes I still wondering if they actually dig into Jil archive. Because their works have been "Jil by Phoebe" instead of Jil herself.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

i quite like the big collars and crochet-lace pieces

 

[bc collector]

Frankly, I still see more Phoebe than Jil in their work (pretty much like PS).

How is it possible that these two don't get anything more or different in Jil's oeuvre?

 

[rip_ian curtis]

^ I have a feeling they might think her work is boring and just cannot grasp what is amazing there.

They have always lacked the subtlety and sensuality of Jil’s best work, resorting to heavy styling and stiff silhouettes instead.

They are not the worst the house has seen (far from it, actually), but it’s a pity how they fail to work with the essence of Jil Sander.

It’s almost laughable that they choose to work more with Phoebe Philo’s ideas when Jil and the Jil Sander brand were similarly influential in their time and predecessors to many things Phoebe did later at Céline.

 

[perhydrol]

I like this collection. It reminds me of Phoebe's F/W 2013 collection for Celine, but here it's updated and adjusted to Jil Sander's aesthetic. That being said, I think it's not the Meiers' problem that they find Jil's work too boring. I guess they try to create a recognizable aesthetic and therefore, Jil's work might not be perceived as visually loud enough. That's why they may be stuck with Phoebe.

 

[Lola701]

It’s always decent and good in itself but it lacks personality. Jil Sander has the same
problem for me as a lot of NYFW brands in that lane.
They all present something proper and linear, no sight of creativity, known references… Which is surprising considering the vast archives they have at their disposal.

But the magic of Jil Sander is the name and the authority it command. And on a hanger, it does the job…

 

[YohjiAddict]

For Jil Sander it’s too decorative, the first few outfits with the bows feel very Raf Simons for Dior (I believe it was HC S/S 2014). Their Philo toolbox is in serious need of an update: ugly shoes with elastic, check; handdrawn prints, check; statement buttons, check and gathered cape-dresses, check!

It’s at least better than their spring show which was the height of fashion victimhood.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

Very linear but kind of fussy.

Jil Sander herself created such a sleek femininity that was very sensual but very severe (in a good way) and so timeless. This collection feels very "now", as if a trend forecaster made the tech packs for the clothes.

Missed opportunity to not look at the Nick Knight campaigns for resources. Would love to see iterations of the dress worn by Tatjana Patitz in the Spring 1992 campaign.

 

[vogue28]

A highlight of MFW for me and I've never been a one for Jil Sander. The first and second looks are both flawless, love the structure of those two jackets. A massive fan of the fabrics and the subtle colour palette. The show felt cohesive and luxe, and I can certainly appreciate that.

 

[tricotineacetat]

It's continuously upsetting to watch these two misinterpret Jil Sander as a Celine by Phoebe Philo clone. Jil Sander developed such a specific style and you feel by the subtle parameters, in the proportions of the silhouette, the choice of fabrics and colors if it's Jil Sander or not - On top of that, her fashion has never been so 'off the moment' and seemingly existed in a world outside the regular fashion conversation, much like the work of her contemporaries, such as the Belgians and the Japanese.

Honestly, this would be a good collection issued under the Hugo Boss or Max Mara label but Jil Sander deserves a bit more than another mid-2010s minimalism re-hash.

 

[JohannesL]

Instead of focusing on sharp and precise tailoring, they always went for loose silhouettes with Philo-Celine touches! For me, Jil Sander is a name in fashion like Helmut Lang and Martin Margiela that is always synonymous with some modernities and individualities. This duo simply doesn't know how to work with the brand's archive and goes straight to interpret what they like: the Philo-Celine aesthetics!