Jil Sander F/W 2024.25 Milan

They’ve been stagnant for a while now. A lot of these looks would not work in real life unless you have a model’s height and proportions.

There is nothing worse than paying a ton of money to have something ill-fitted (or in there case, a completely lack of fitting).
 
I like the coats but nothing about this feels Jil Sander to me. It feels Fashion with a big F , no idea of the woman they’re dressing. Just like Marni, there’s some interesting clothes and looks but no idea who will actually buy any of this in the end
 
I'm not a particularly avid fan of this collection, but these guys always make very desirable pieces, especially in the accessories department. I literally have 3 pairs of shoes and one bag from their past collection on my wishlist and I'm a very strict MOFO with what I really want to buy (I'll be purchasing on Yoox this month). Like it or not, these guys have made some of the most desirable minimalist jackets, coats, and accessories in the past years. I did like the first 10 looks of this collection, though, especially the ones with rounded shoulders.
 
One thing about those designers at OTB, they only see the brands they are working for as « names on the doors ».
After a non-Margiela, a non-Marni, we have another non-Jil Sander.

On paper, this collection is not bad. It’s rather ambitious…But considering that nothing in this is in line with the spirit of the house, it’s impossible for me to enjoy it.

And again, it’s not about pieces or items but about this spirit of the house.

You can sleep in the archives but if you don’t get the spirit of the house, it won’t go nowhere.

I know Jil Sander has a very solid offering in stores that can relate to the original spirit of the house but this right there is a mess.
 
One thing about those designers at OTB, they only see the brands they are working for as « names on the doors ».
After a non-Margiela, a non-Marni, we have another non-Jil Sander.

On paper, this collection is not bad. It’s rather ambitious…But considering that nothing in this is in line with the spirit of the house, it’s impossible for me to enjoy it.

And again, it’s not about pieces or items but about this spirit of the house.

You can sleep in the archives but if you don’t get the spirit of the house, it won’t go nowhere.

I know Jil Sander has a very solid offering in stores that can relate to the original spirit of the house but this right there is a mess.
Even when Jil Sander herself took over her brand for the last time, in 2012, she didn't seem inclined to offer the spirit of the decades bygone either. The 90s - early 2000s minimalist spirit that i suppose you were referring to.
 
Even when Jil Sander herself took over her brand for the last time, in 2012, she didn't seem inclined to offer the spirit of the decades bygone either. The 90s - early 2000s minimalist spirit that i suppose you were referring to.
No for me the spirit is more about the people you are dressing. I’m not a nostalgic and I very much like forward thinking ideas or POV.

Jil Sander is about that idea of dressing active professionals but also that concept of a wardrobe that pretty much inform dressing in urban settings. And as I said, they have plenty of propositions in stores but this ain’t it.

Yes her vision in 2012 changed thankfully because it’s an evolving narrative. We are in a much more casual time.

And I think there was a very down to earth or at least approachable quality to Jil’s work. That’s why Raf did so wonderfully. Even when he totally went in different direction, there was very down to earth feel to it…example when he did the 50’s. He did a classic 50’s silhouette in white popelin.
 
Horrendous color palette. Zegna by Alessandro Sartori look more Jil Sander than anything here
 
No for me the spirit is more about the people you are dressing. I’m not a nostalgic and I very much like forward thinking ideas or POV.

Jil Sander is about that idea of dressing active professionals but also that concept of a wardrobe that pretty much inform dressing in urban settings. And as I said, they have plenty of propositions in stores but this ain’t it.

Yes her vision in 2012 changed thankfully because it’s an evolving narrative. We are in a much more casual time.

And I think there was a very down to earth or at least approachable quality to Jil’s work. That’s why Raf did so wonderfully. Even when he totally went in different direction, there was very down to earth feel to it…example when he did the 50’s. He did a classic 50’s silhouette in white popelin.
In that sense, yes, i can't bring myself to associate Meiers with the name Jil Sander whereas i regarded Raf Simons as Jil Sander.
They lack charisma, a spirit of their own maybe.
Love the 50s Balenciaga like silhouettes here, but the accessorising looks forced and quirky - And quirkiness is the new banal. 😁
 
In that sense, yes, i can't bring myself to associate Meiers with the name Jil Sander whereas i regarded Raf Simons as Jil Sander.
They lack charisma, a spirit of their own maybe.
Love the 50s Balenciaga like silhouettes here, but the accessorising looks forced and quirky - And quirkiness is the new banal. 😁
Exactly…
And when you think about Jil Sander, a chainmail strapless gown is the last thing you want or expect to see.
At Versace maybe or Paco Rabanne but certainly not Jil Sander!
 
Are women actually buying these frumpy clothes? Even the tailored pieces are unflattering. There is no reason for them to shift away from the DNA of the house. Minimalism is thought of as easy, but it's actually more difficult because it involves an emphasis on tailoring. I feel like the brand could be relevant again if they took the textured fabrics they love to use and wrap them around the body instead of throwing it on top. No one wants to look like they're wearing a comforter!
 
I don't mind some of this. There's interesting shapes and proportions that echo designers of yore and could make for great statement pieces. But none of this pragmatic. There's no sense of reality to it so it ends up being a little too "artsy" if that makes sense. You couldn't wear lot of this next season because they just feel so visually fleeting.

Hate to say this too, but if a designer were to present this at LFW, I don't think I would recognise it for much else and just forget about it. It's also a very fussy take on "minimalism" where the overall silhouettes are so cumbersome. I've always felt Jil Sander has been about working with the body, not fighting against it.
 

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