Jil Sander Mens F/W 2015.16 Milan

[marcBarna]

nowfashion.com

 

[marcBarna]

nowfashion.com

 

[simon]

This is nice. Love those sweaters.

 

[marcBarna]

nowfashion.com

 

[marcBarna]

nowfashion.com

 

[Phuel]

Total 1997-vibe.

Designers showing a looser, baggier pant isn't meant to be a new statement, is it..? It's pretty much standard fare from my part of the woods. The belted and double-breasted coats are beautiful, as are the leather coats. The elongated leather anorak is giving me Helmut Lang longings... other than that, it's rather plain and a pale pale pale shadow of what Jil has, and can offer.

Thanks for the posts marc!

 

[GIVENCHYlover]

Great coats, I love the cuts

 

[Scott]

honestly,after years of being subjected to super skinny silhouettes i'm pleased to see a return to volume again. i like this....it feels very JS....maybe not quite as crisp and sublime but it's very promising the direction he's taking.

 

[gossiping]

i don't like it find it disappointing, unflattering

 

[disco54]

I dont see 90s,
it gives me more of a futuristic 40s vibe, I think its very nice and would love see men wearing these looks on the street.
The new designer did a very good job!

 

[pen6693]

He hit it right on the first collection. I'm excited to see where he takes the brand.

 

[elle_gb]

The cut was amazing I believe if i get to see it closely it would be fantastic.

 

[vandekamp]

LOVE this. Exceptionally better than his first women's wear collection which was just pitiful. This is so 90s.

 

[Scott]

i definitely think it has a late-90's appeal....very much akin to that particular group of designers who were kind of the driving force behind this new era of menswear appreciation....prada,costume national,jil,helmut,dries,raf....in fact those pleated trousers have a bit of raf's early skater-boy.

 

[Phuel]

Do you like some of these proposed proportions, Scott?

It's not that I don't like a looser trouser-- or that it's such a late-90s signature-- so Tom Ford for Gucci, or very Tom Ford for YSL 2001 that I would think anyone designing for Jil would think better than to bring it back now when others have already done it. It's that the fit here looks horrendous-- like one of those skinny kids that are wearing his dad's "dress pants" that are a few sizes too large for them. It's sloppy in some of the looks. I mean, is he serious with the big and baggy polo sweaters worn with the even more baggier and bigger trousers? It just looks like how someone in a Harmony Korine film would dress...

Jil's always been known for her sharp sense of proportions and even sharper fit. She may propose volume, and she may propose volume upon volume, but she was never sloppy-- and her offerings were always luxurious. This collection is really spotty to me: Some great pieces with great cuts in ultra-luxe materials-- but it's also smeared throughout with some damn sloppiness and cheapness.

Half of the collection is ill-fitting and I loathe it. But my God, the other half is so lush and so sharp. Had this been a small, tight collection that only concentrated on the leathers, the icy grays and glen-plaids, and the double-breasted and belted coats, I'd be on my knees... That 3/4-length leather anorak will be mine. It's so very Helmut! Swoon...

 

[Scott]

like i said,i definitely don't think it's as crisp and sublime as jil but i do think intention is lovely. he just needs to work on his execution a bit better.

 

[gazebo]

www.youtube.com/user/FatalefashionIII

 

[VivaLys]

great coats, and colors are so cool