Jil Sander Mens S/S 10 Milan

Very plain and boring.
No color at all, really Raf?
Tsk, tsk, tsk.....
 
I tried putting together a little comment yesterday, but seeing how everyone here loved this collection, I shied away. Trico's comment thought, is really valuable in that it pinpoints all the things that make this collection really quite weak for a menswear jil collection. A very respectable opinion.
 
Jil Sander only started branching out with menswear in 1997, that's effectively 12 years in business on the menswear front and taking into account the houses' history, it happened only briefly before Bertelli bought a majority stake in Jil's business. I would hardly call this a business with a rich, established history... let alone with a strongly defined, existing clientele as there used to be with Jil's womenswear (even that customer has changed from the 80ies/early 90ies... Jil herself understood that when she came back with a slightly evolved vision from that ultra-stark 90ies minimalism).

The way you are talking about Jil Sander menswear sounds as if we were talking of a cult-menswear label as Dior Homme used to be under Hedi Slimane, which itself was an operation that for a long time was not profitable, despite the fact that people around the glove were snatching up their iconic jeans, sneakers and other products bearing the Dior Homme name... I don't think that ever happened at Jil Sander, let alone that male end customers recgnized such a 'vision' or 'look' as you described it.

I've said it before and I'll say it again, but I don't see Jil Sander as being a style that needs to look as stark and harsh as Raf Simons is sometimes doing... A simple elegance, yes, but the clothes - especially in menswear - hardly ever speak to me as being nonchalant and with ease... his style is sometimes a bit too studied in a bad, contrived way.

it doesn't take years and years to establish a cut of a suit, a palette, a ldesign aesthetic....the jil sander suit and the jil sander look for men and women remains as recognizable as the armani look or the dior homme look or the tom ford look or the ralph lauren look. although she only started her mens' line in 1997 and left it in 2000, she had CLEARLY established a vocuabulary for the mens' line. raf simons has done something remarkable by holding true to that. i believe he's managed to craft sartorial haiku with this collection by creating something so poetic and lyrical while staying within the strictures of what we know of jil sander.

and yes, i understand the history of ownership of this house, but raf simons has often designed collections described as "more jil sander than jil sander." jil sander once described the mens' line as "precision-cut with an emphasis upon light fabrics" and i believe raf's held true to that again with this collection.
 
This is excrutiatingly boring. It's just like Jil Sander.
I can't believe I got a buzz every time I remembered this show was out today . .
Note to self: Never get excited.

yep well i loved the womens collection this year (F/W) so hopefully Raf can pull that together. for S/S
 
I really didn't like the collection at first, but it's grown on me. It may be simple, but I think it's fresh and really lovely.

The hair still annoys me... just a bit.
 
I’m a bit divided by his collection. Om one hand, l love the shoes and the basics, both very “Jil Sander”. On the other hand, most of the prints don’t do it for me and the ones on the pants are simply hideous.

Oh, and I hare the haircuts. They remind me of my own and many of my friends haircuts. When we were 5 years old, that is.
 

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