Jil Sander S/S 2004

[nikos]

ruffles at Sander

she said she's obsessed with evening, beforehand. can't wait to see the rest quick.

 

[nikos]

 

[Acid]

i dont like it

 

[Lena]

thanks for the preview Nikos and -btw- welcome to FS

i was sure Jil was up for something unpredictable,
but i need to see more before forming an opinion.

anyone that finds more pictures, please post,
just like nikos said ...quick

 

[Spacemiu]

love it

 

[nikos]

thanks lena.

i can't really make up my mind about it...

there's a review up on fwd under 'FASHION'. can't access it. could someone copy and paste?? would be great.

 

[Lena]

i'm still working, let me check

here is the article from fwd
no photos yet though

Sophisticated As Ever: Jil Sander's Welcome Comeback

By Godfrey Deeny
October 03, 2003 - Milan

Jil Sander set herself a stiff test and she comfortably passed it with a fresh, fragile and poetic collection Friday evening in Milan, in the most anticipated event in the Italian fashion calendar.

No comeback is ever easy, and Sander carefully organized her return to Milan show space in the shadow of the city's giant medieval fortress Castello Sforzesco. Though the hottest ticket in town, access to the opening of the two shows was restricted to just 400 of the fashion elite, a mere six TV crews and barely 25 photographers.

For those who have been living on another planet: Three years ago, Jil Sander walked out of the company she founded barely 18 months after selling control of her house to Prada and almost immediately getting into a bitter fight with the Italian luxury group's clan leader Patrizio Bertelli.

But, from the opening outfit -- a white cotton shift with a middle panel in a gray floral pattern from the 15th century -- you sensed Sander was going to pass with honors.

Most outstanding were a series of beautiful pleated dresses and skirts, over printed with gray and pale sage. The fabrics looked dipped in dye, yet the color of the overlay was delightfully uneven as the material was wrinkled. Sander featured gold color blocks on crisp white shirts and played with shards of fabrics falling from shoulders and chopped of necklines.

She showed just a few jackets of slightly battered leather, in flesh or ecru colors that were the best leather looks we've seen anywhere in this international season. Slim black calico redingotes and a series of wispy hand-dyed chiffon dresses were also excellent.

Though unadorned -- there was not any jewelry or accessories apart from shoes -- the collection was far from the pure minimalism of old. Several looks came with curling necklines and ruffled shoulder patches. Ruffles in a Jil Sander collection?

The silhouette was classical and very high-waisted. This was not a collection for big-breasted gals, but Jil Sander never was.

"Did you like it?" Sander seemed to ask everyone who queued to wish her congratulations, after she'd taken a tearful bow.

"It was just exactly the Jil that we needed," said Vanity Fair fashion director Elizabeth Saltzman. "Very, very young, and molto, molto poetico," smiled Vogue Italia editor-in-chief Franca Sozzani, who sat just down the bench from Sander's former nemesis, Signore Bertelli himself.

And what, pray tell, did Bertelli think of the collection? "Very beautiful. It was for a woman who is romantic but not insipid; youthful but not straining to be young; sexy but never aggressive," smiled Bertelli.

"Prada's collection was great yesterday, Jil wonderful today, and we have Miu Miu tomorrow and Helmut Lang next week. Things are going very well," he told FWD, referring to his group's top fashion labels with an expressive Italian wave of his hands.

Was it a triumph? Perhaps but, though the collection evoked a wonderful chic sect of brainy, sophisticated women, it did not pack an enormous surprise. However, will female editors at the show want to wear something from this collection? Absolutely.

 

[nikos]

cheers lena

 

[nikos]

this is very lovely...i don't think i ever thought sander to be 'lovely' but

 

[Spacemiu]

thansk for teh pics and article, im loveing this

 

[DressageChick]

I love this

 

[TrailerCouture]

love it...half flirty half structured....breve

 

[Lena]

Just went through the whole collection,which is full of details and Jil Sander new classicism. I like a lot her paintbrush prints, the shape of those puff sleeves, the empire lines (so hot right now and for next summer). She's been clever to keep some of her legendary suits -missed them- but also softening up her image.
Great collection.
here some more pictures

 

[Lena]

some more

 

[mxtine]

I like it better than the Gucci collection.

 

[Scott]

I am in love with this collection. I don't think I ever saw this kind of poetry from her before,non? Any case...

 

[Astrid21]

I'm too tired and disappointed to comment. So far I only like the white pantsuit. I'll look at it more closely when my head isn't throbbing.

Thanks for the visuals and article, Lena.

 

[ignitioned32]

Originally posted by Astrid21@Oct 4th, 2003 - 8:37 pm
I'm too tired and disappointed to comment. So far I only like the white pantsuit. I'll look at it more closely when my head isn't throbbing.

Thanks for the visuals and article, Lena.

That's why I'm only commenting now, but you said it already Astrid!

 

[Spacemiu]

Amaizng!

deffinelty the best coollection that is going to come out of milan
Im gald she is moveing into a mroe poetic state, i think its much more inspireing than ultra simplisity, wich i feel has been kind of over done

I adore the paint brush prints, so inovative

 

[Astrid21]

Originally posted by Spacemiu@Oct 4th, 2003 - 11:09 pm
deffinelty the best coollection that is going to come out of milan
Im gald she is moveing into a mroe poetic state, i think its much more inspireing than ultra simplisity, wich i feel has been kind of over done

I adore the paint brush prints, so inovative

She's moved on from simplicity? This is one of the most 'simple' collections I've seen from her. I, too, like the paintbrush strokes, but it's already been done by Ralph Rucci. But, of course, this is her take on it and it's not the same as Rucci's. I just think my hopes were too high. This collection seems so dated and square.