John Galliano F/W 2009.10 Paris

wow!! omg what a collection!!♥♥♥ i love the colours, the details.. everything is amazing.
thank u all for pix and video.
 
After shows like this, one gains a whole new respect for the models.
 
i guess i'm in the minority but i just don't connect with this collection at all. some of the stuff is pretty, and the show itself was interesting, but i don't see enough new ideas in the clothes to make me love it. it seems to me like galliano has done collections in this vein before, only on other occasions, he injected more creativity into old folkloric designs. a lot of these looks seem too literal. and those giant round metal buckles just distract me even more. i don't know, it has been a few seasons since i really got into a galliano/dior couture collection.
 
To me, Galliano has always had a flare for the dramatic. It's his signature, I will actually be shocked if he ever did a "normal" runway. I thought this collection was somewhat conceptual and not sure how it will translate into real life. I also agree that he had done very similar flavors before. But when I broke apart the ensemble, I thought the pieces were beautifully done. I adore the boots!
 
i think when i first started being interested in fashion, galliano appealed to me because i was exposed to some of his earlier designs. imo, he is more interesting when he focuses on garment construction than when he focuses on motifs. he can create interesting garment structures that are really innovative, but i think when he focuses on a more immediate visual punch (such as this collection, or his galliano gazette stuff), it feels more derivative, at least to me. i mean, i reallythink this collection is very costume-y and literal, and elsa schiaparelli beat him to the newspaper motif like several decades ago.
 
afterwords, i admit the collection is really interesting, i love the mysterious touch there and the materiau are really wonderful !!!
 
Now that it's been a few weeks since I first saw this collection, I feel like I'm now able assess it from a more objective position.

So, now that my initial euphoria has worn off a bit (don't get me wrong...I still like this collection), and in conjunction with the fact that I've recently become re-obsessed with Galliano's Fall/ Winter 2004 collection, I've been able to realize (quite clearly, actually) what's wrong with this collection.

1. FW 09 is a one dimensional collection
The inspiration of this collection is Frozen Ukrainian Virgin Brides...and that's it. And that's all that this collection looks like, too. While there are pieces in this collection I love, it's all 'Frozen Ukrainian Virgin Brides.' When you look at a collection like FW 04, Galliano deftly weaves traditional Yemen costume, Civil War Americana, traveling rat pack bag ladies and Victorian fashion together without a single hitch. It was so layered and multi-dimensional that it felt incredibly modern. Even the enormous hoop skirts, extreme corsets, outrageous accessories, hair and makeup appeared oddly contemporary and desirable, even. FW 09 doesn't possess any of the mulit-dimensionality and because of that, it begins to feel costume-y.

2. FW 09 is not cheeky
While watching the video of FW 04, I found myself beaming uncontrollably. I was giggling, even. It was just so much bloody fun. I can't describe what in particular made it so brash, but it just reeked of irreverent absurdity. FW 09 just isn't half as saucy as FW 04. FW 09 needed some sexing up.

3. Today's Models SUCK
Back at the FW 04 show (again) each model was perfect. She was sexy, flirty, fun and fearless. Most of the models at the FW 09 were none of those adjectives...with the exception of Georgina, but when she's the only one doing it, it makes less of an impact. Serioulsy...imagining Kasia or Sigrid or Anabela walking in the FW 04 show is both laughable and ridiculous. Most of the models at the FW 09 show lacked personality and humor and Galliano's clothes need that...they need girls who ham it up...and by 'hamming it up,' I don't mean putting your hands on your hips and cinching your waist in and giving the audience a wink. It's so much more...it's the way the model became the character she was dressed as...she was that Yemenese, sea-faring Confederate, Victorian bag lady and she was on a mission to walk that catwalk. The girls on the FW 09 catwalk looked like they were playing dress up...the models at the FW 04 show looked like they wore those clothes for work and play, rain or shine, day or night...they even slept in them...those clothes were them.

Anyway...just sharing my thoughts!
 
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^^ i totally agree on the three points above. i would only add that they're not FW09 problems... they are THE Galliano problems, at least since FW06.
 
^ I think clothes like these are too heavy with personality, that they really need women who can carry them - not really faceless nameless girls.

I think 'the great models' ended with Daria, Gemma etc. leaving the runway. The 2004 season was the best - even 2006. I remember teh FW 2006 Versace show with the greatest girls there is one after the other including Daria, MariaCarla, Gemma, Doutzen, Natasha, Hillary Rhoda, Stegner, Snejana... I mean they were so sublime, I thought these girls were unbeatable. Now, where are they, where is that excitement?

On the other hand, the collection is sublime, yet needs to be diluted a little in real life to work. Such amazing detailing, it is obvious these pieces were made with love. And Galliano gave another fashion feast for the eye and the soul.

I am especially impressed by the frozen palette, and icy sheerness of the fabrics. These clothes would make many girls happy.
 
3. Today's Models SUCK
Back at the FW 04 show (again) each model was perfect. She was sexy, flirty, fun and fearless.

I have to agree with that again so much! Last time I'm watching lot of Christian Dior and John Galliano shows from the early 2000's and compared to them, presentation that we see now are so bland. They lack the passion, energy and, as you said, personality. Doing such show with today's models without few exception would be simply impossible.
 
One of my favorite collections, Tanya at the end emulating Corpse Bride is one of the best things in the world, PERFECT!

But at the same time I'm sad that we don't have anything at least that comes close to what fashion was once...
 
I have to agree with that again so much! Last time I'm watching lot of Christian Dior and John Galliano shows from the early 2000's and compared to them, presentation that we see now are so bland. They lack the passion, energy and, as you said, personality. Doing such show with today's models without few exception would be simply impossible.

If only people knew what 2022 would be like in terms of fashion and modeling. :lol:
 

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