Hermès F/W 2008.09 Paris

[*Happiness*]

looks good so far, and love the runway

ditto!!!!

 

[Crescendolls]

I love the prints. And the coats.

 

[I_Want_That_One]

my favorite collection of the season <3! The runway is wowwww
(i can't believe they are smoking on the runway...jeez)

 

[Lena]

So that's where Etro's paisley went!

these paisleys -in those dead boring earth colours- killed it for me
but most of the monochromatic pieces and the accessories were great.

i understand how much the typical hermes client may appreciate this 'safe' approach, but i would expect jpg to deliver something fresher, something more inventive

 

[Juliette3]

The runway is great!
I loved the coats, the rest I wasn't overly impressed by.

 

[FashionJunkie]

Love it for the most part but i hate the silk orange pieces. OMG awful...
The coats though and the lime/green pieces were heaven! Quite luxurious and elegant.

 

[christian zh]

The best Hermes colletion for me

Full Show in HQ

 

[Scotty]

Does anyone still have the video for this, this is probably my favorite Hermes show

 

[christian zh]

Does anyone still have the video for this, this is probably my favorite Hermes show

I do, I can reupload it if you want

 

[Scotty]

^ that would be great

 

[Dior Dream]

Does anyone have HQs and the full show ?

 

[christian zh]

Oop, I didn't know there are still people who are waiting for the full show to be uploaded haha, but here you go

 

[dior_couture1245]

Super chic collection. Has a sort of Ralph Lauren appeal.

I miss JPG for Hermès.

 

[Lola701]

He did his thing at Hermès. I know it’s sort of fashion blasphemy but I prefer his Hermès to Margiela’s. Nobody did Hermès like him!

 

[dior_couture1245]

He did his thing at Hermès. I know it’s sort of fashion blasphemy but I prefer his Hermès to Margiela’s. Nobody did Hermès like him!

Nobody!

I think of all the designers for Hermès, he’s the only one who really understood the lifestyle and idiosyncrasies of the clientele. He understood the charm and the carefree attitude that is crucial to the house’s identity. He understood the classicism and the playfulness. He understood the ease and the luxury. He understood that the clothes looked gorgeous on the models, but needed to look just as gorgeous on a coifed and pearled 70-something year old. He understood the fantasy element of the house’s travel motif, but always kept it Parisian. He understood that the savoir faire had to be impeccable, but never belabored.

Margiela’s Hermès was quite beautiful, but a tad serious. All the other designers since JPG, including the current one, fail to capture any sense of imagination and are totally burdened by the house’s expectation for top-of-the-line luxury. I don’t think they really understand the lives of the women who buy Hermès like it’s nothing.

The current lady at Hermès is particularly clueless. Her carryover Celine aesthetic is actually not that luxurious…in truth, the whole Phoebe aesthetic has always had a certain new-money appeal. Old money - real money - does not dress like that. It’s much more conservative and traditional, and yet, a bit funnier. Which is why JPG was perfect.

 

[dior_couture1245]

I’ll add one more thought…

Re: my Ralph Lauren comment.

Like JPG’s Hermès, the clothes may sometimes read as fairly conservative or straightforward or sort of fashion-less…

But if any of you have ever gone into a Ralph Lauren flagship store, you’ll know that immediately you see that his clothes are on another level entirely from everything else on the market. The absolute finest materials and construction and a baked-in desirability that is impossible to resist. It’s so attractively separate from “the rest.”

That’s the level. That’s the money. That’s the woman.

 

[THD96]

The beauty of JPG Hermès is that it's really shocked people how versatile he is. With a reputation of "enfant terrible" so nobody expected him to do something so classic, old school luxury. His stint at Hermès is really underrated because now when someone referenced him they just do "punk", "cyber", or "drama". But he is so much more than that.

The current lady at Hermès is particularly clueless. Her carryover Celine aesthetic is actually not that luxurious…in truth, the whole Phoebe aesthetic has always had a certain new-money appeal. Old money - real money - does not dress like that. It’s much more conservative and traditional, and yet, a bit funnier. Which is why JPG was perfect.

What I don't like about Nadège right now is she is playing too safe. In a way she has the best job right now because Hermès is the only house right now that doesn't pressure their designers to sell more clothes. Their rtw is just a marketing tool for them to sell more bags and silk accessories. So I don't know why she doesn't have more fun with it.

My dream is to have Phoebe at Hermès, because like Margiela she is very dynamic in her design approach. She understands true luxury and the women that live it. She never compromise her vision to chase what is currently trending. And her humor is accessories can help Hermès in long terms.

 

[Lola701]

What is interesting is that Hermès is not that expensive compared to other brands (except maybe for the leather pieces or exotic leather).
For me, the key to Gaultier’s Hermès and what separated him from all the ones who did it before and after is that indeed, he knew the clientele…Because most of the women he had in his Couture shows were potentially his clients at Hermès.
For me there’s a direct correlation between his Couture at the time and his Hermès RTW…And the odd thing is that his own RTW became slightly irrelevant at the time.

He knew what those women wanted. Good quality, timeless, cute details and the right dose of imagination/fun. I know that Betty Lagardère, used to wear a lot of Hermès by Gaultier.
He brought his savoir faire of Couture, dressmaking into the house. Margiela was good but in a way, he didn’t allowed himself to be more adventurous. In a way margiela dressed the bourgeoise when Gaultier’s vision was maybe more cosmopolite.

And Gaultier did some real magic. If I was rich I would have bought the whole Spring 2006 and Fall 2009 collections. It was simply pure perfection. Sometimes I regret not having bought as much pieces from his time at Hermès because maybe the brand’s perception didn’t fit my lifestyle or my age at the time. I remember going to the Hermès sales at that time and feeling so out of place lol

 

[dior_couture1245]

And Gaultier did some real magic. If I was rich I would have bought the whole Spring 2006 and Fall 2009 collections. It was simply pure perfection. Sometimes I regret not having bought as much pieces from his time at Hermès because maybe the brand’s perception didn’t fit my lifestyle or my age at the time. I remember going to the Hermès sales at that time and feeling so out of place lol

Spring 2006 is my favorite collection of his at Hermès. Pure perfection, as you described. Clothes that look as if they’ve existed forever. Instant keepsakes. I also remember Spring 2007 being poorly reviewed, but over time, it has grown on me and has proven to be devastatingly chic. I love the vests over the flowing chiffon blouses and the huge spike jewelry.

My dream is to have Phoebe at Hermès, because like Margiela she is very dynamic in her design approach. She understands true luxury and the women that live it. She never compromise her vision to chase what is currently trending. And her humor is accessories can help Hermès in long terms.

As time goes on, I have to say I like Phoebe’s Celine less and less. I still think it’s really beautiful, but as I mentioned before, I really don’t think it’s that timeless. Chic? Yes. Gorgeous? Yes. Clever? Yes. Timeless? No. Trendless? No. Classic? Not really. And her endless imitators who continue to ape her style have proved how easy it is to sort of “put on” that aesthetic…you know…a twisted silk top, an asymmetrical pleated skirt, a pair of ugly shoes, some modernist jewelry, a pillow-like leather bag…done. And that’s not even to mention all those street style ladies who, wearing head-to-toe Celine, still managed to look kind of goofy and clueless.

Don’t get me wrong, I think she’s a very talented designer, but I don’t think she’s hypothetically right for Hermès. I’d prefer her at Chanel, if anywhere.

 

[Lola701]

Spring 2006 is my favorite collection of his at Hermès. Pure perfection, as you described. Clothes that look as if they’ve existed forever. Instant keepsakes. I also remember Spring 2007 being poorly reviewed, but over time, it has grown on me and has proven to be devastatingly chic. I love the vests over the flowing chiffon blouses and the huge spike jewelry.

I loved Spring 2007 even if it wasn’t my all time favorite. It felt very resort and maybe under-designed for the time. I bought my first Hermès accessories because of that show. I had the shoes from that collection (gone now) but also the Medor accessories (belt and cuff).
And looking back, JPG is the one who had the most fun with the Hermès icons. He redesigned the bags, he played with the accessories, he did a lot of foulard inspired stuff, played with the horse-riding…And he pushed the atelier. I remember in his last show he did translucide alligator or something like that.


And for me, Haider is the one we need at Hermès. His work at Berluti and his knowledge in dressmaking is enough for me. And giving that he is a very social person, he can feel the need of the women and men who wears those clothes.

The problem with Nadège is that her stuff feels like a design project whereas in the menswear, Veronique is doing clothes to live in.