Now that it's been a few weeks since I first saw this collection, I feel like I'm now able assess it from a more objective position.
So, now that my initial euphoria has worn off a bit (don't get me wrong...I still like this collection), and in conjunction with the fact that I've recently become re-obsessed with Galliano's Fall/ Winter 2004 collection, I've been able to realize (quite clearly, actually) what's wrong with this collection.
1. FW 09 is a one dimensional collection
The inspiration of this collection is Frozen Ukrainian Virgin Brides...and that's it. And that's all that this collection looks like, too. While there are pieces in this collection I love, it's all 'Frozen Ukrainian Virgin Brides.' When you look at a collection like FW 04, Galliano deftly weaves traditional Yemen costume, Civil War Americana, traveling rat pack bag ladies and Victorian fashion together without a single hitch. It was so layered and multi-dimensional that it felt incredibly modern. Even the enormous hoop skirts, extreme corsets, outrageous accessories, hair and makeup appeared oddly contemporary and desirable, even. FW 09 doesn't possess any of the mulit-dimensionality and because of that, it begins to feel costume-y.
2. FW 09 is not cheeky
While watching the video of FW 04, I found myself beaming uncontrollably. I was giggling, even. It was just so much bloody fun. I can't describe what in particular made it so brash, but it just reeked of irreverent absurdity. FW 09 just isn't half as saucy as FW 04. FW 09 needed some sexing up.
3. Today's Models SUCK
Back at the FW 04 show (again) each model was perfect. She was sexy, flirty, fun and fearless. Most of the models at the FW 09 were none of those adjectives...with the exception of Georgina, but when she's the only one doing it, it makes less of an impact. Serioulsy...imagining Kasia or Sigrid or Anabela walking in the FW 04 show is both laughable and ridiculous. Most of the models at the FW 09 show lacked personality and humor and Galliano's clothes need that...they need girls who ham it up...and by 'hamming it up,' I don't mean putting your hands on your hips and cinching your waist in and giving the audience a wink. It's so much more...it's the way the model became the character she was dressed as...she was that Yemenese, sea-faring Confederate, Victorian bag lady and she was on a mission to walk that catwalk. The girls on the FW 09 catwalk looked like they were playing dress up...the models at the FW 04 show looked like they wore those clothes for work and play, rain or shine, day or night...they even slept in them...those clothes were them.
Anyway...just sharing my thoughts!