John Galliano S/S 2001 Paris

With age I have came to dislike his early 2000s output. The 90s seem to be the golden age for the greats. Both John and Mcqueen never managed to top their collections from that period. There was a certain restrain to their work. They experimented with form but didn't forget that garment should complement the wearer's body, not overwhelm it.
 
With age I have came to dislike his early 2000s output. The 90s seem to be the golden age for the greats. Both John and Mcqueen never managed to top their collections from that period. There was a certain restrain to their work. They experimented with form but didn't forget that garment should complement the wearer's body, not overwhelm it.
Yes, it really was representative of the chaos which they were both holding within their own lives during this time. It was very rockstar, and go against the grain; but it really was just everything all over the place. Felt like a disruption from post-90's sleek chic, but was it really? It feels more like a disturbance when you examine it today.

Which is likely why Dior opted for so much to be scaled back and to return to classic Dior once he left. Knowing this was John's namesake, a lot of this chaos did bleed into Dior; John Galliano as a line was soooooo in your face. Looking back at it, it very much is still that. It's definitely a marker of time, when you revisit the looks and collections.
 
i personally think john did some of his best work in the early 2000s. it's the most relevant he's ever been.
 
I think a lot of it comes down to the styling tricks he and the team adopted on top of the makeup, AND the shoes, AND the bags, AND the hair, AND the millinery so on and so forth. Pre-2000s it is certainly easier to dissect the looks and look for pieces, where early 2000s it's a bit all or nothing and you really have to try and figure out what's what and how each is piece worn based on how it is made. Whenever someone did do a full look from this time, it rarely worked that well.

That of course added to his relevancy at the time and legacy wise because it was tapping into a certain energy that was so fresh and interesting for then, but it was also bit of a pitfall because it became so much and went a bit beyond even the limits of what was deemed beyond before. So things were a bit more for show than reality, so the fantasy really was just "fantasy" (to the point of costume) and made it hard to fully appreciate the clothes.

Thankfully these collections were on the mirrored runway. If he continued these looks in a set up similar to his mise-en-scenes, that would be complete sensory overload...
 

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