Louis Vuitton F/W 2022.23 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[90sFan]

It's very Nicolas.
And it's very boring/predictable by now.
LV is slowly getting ooooold and boring just as Marc Jacobs's last 6 years of Vuitton were getting boring and dull...
Someone new maybe has to say something a bit more interesting...??!

 

[ReneSanchez]

I just don’t get the graphic dresses and shirts. Of course someone goes to Louis Vuitton for silk screened shirts.

 

[thiago:)]

There are some good coats but the collection as a group feels really terrible. MAS's styling is all over the place.

 

[Lola701]

A lovely collection from Nicolas…
Maybe his most quiet yet.
This feels like a summary of what he started with fall 2020. It feels very familiar even if there are some fresh ideas.

The girls looked like museums visitors and for once I felt like the environnement matched the clothes in an sense of reality. Some fabulous pants and jackets as usual, very beautifully styled and even when MAS went crazy with her styling (the last few looks), it was still easy to see the pieces.

The bags are great too and I loved the boots. It created a more dynamic walk and added some punch.

The flou at the end was a nice touch from him.

I love Nicolas and I still have a lot of respect for him for still pushing his vision, pushing himself and pushing the expectations we might have for a house like Vuitton. He is not leading the pack like in 2014 but he still manages to deliver something personal while being in tune with what’s going on.

If I was rich, I would have bought like 90% of this. I really think that he should try menswear for one season. A lot of men are buying his stuff and considering the oversized trend, pieces can be produced in a one-size-fits-all kind of way.

@90sFan don’t worry, his contract ends next year. Even if he sells well and has the support of Delphine and Burke, maybe he will want to open a new chapter.

 

[THD96]

I love this so much, easily one of my favorite collections this season.

Everything is just working, the first look came out and I'm happy because it's a perfect balance. The styling works for the clothes and does not fight against them.

The collection looks like an updated version of Balenciaga FW 2007, Nicolas is at his best when he is mixing different historical elements with the street vibes together. The clothes are straightforward, it's commercial clothes without sacrificing their creativity or being too banal. It's everyday clothes but with a twist.

The styling I have no complaint about this season, MAS step-ups (or toned down) her game. The styling is complimenting the clothes, unlike her usual tactics that make everything more complicated with her layering games. The clothes get to shine this time. One minor thing that I don't like is the last 3 looks with the wraparound sweaters, it makes them look more complicated.

Love the bags, especially the new triangle Petite Malle. The shoes not so much, I don't think open toes is really good for winter. He needs a new shoe designer.

I still don't like the new show revenue, It's still too big for Nicolas's clothes. And I don't think Musée d'Orsay works as a runway. I hope it's just a one-time thing. I don't think museums work in his favor despite having a lot of historical references in his collections. Since he arrived as LV all his runway become gigantic, I wonder if it was his ideas or not.

 

[toffie]

I find this collection much more digestible and easy to love than many of his recent outings. I really like the menswear inspired looks. The beige jacket with leather or vinyl pants give me early Hedi’s Celine vibes but I love it. Some fabulous jackets indeed, and great boots as well. The structured gowns were a bit similar to last season’s but toned down and actually wearable (or almost).

The last dozen looks should have stayed rue de Rivoli imo. While the rest looks expensive and refined even if not always to my taste, those printed shirts are just unnecessary and cheap looking.

 

[toffie]

@90sFan don’t worry, his contract ends next year. Even if he sells well and has the support of Delphine and Burke, maybe he will want to open a new chapter.

I remember him teasing about the opening of his own house within LVMH…Of course that was pre-pandemic so it might have changed plans. I do wonder where this project stands at the moment though.

 

[Cocteau Stone]

I'm perplexed by the fact that the fabrics look so spongy... Nicolas has a knack for finding and working with the most porous looking fabrics that always makes me intrigued. Even if their not, they sure do look it, particularly in this collection.

I think there's a little too much bulk for my liking in this collection. Makes the looks feel a little too juvenile so I wish the styling were a little more toned down (I still can't believe this is toned down for MAS, it's some of the lightest styling she's done but it's still a bit much). This is very much Nicolas and Nicolas of now, so at least he's staying true to himself. He still knows how to cut a mean pant.

 

[WAVES]

overall it’s hideous.
those balloonesque dresses with fringes are disgusting, the prints are terrible, the ties!!!
the fact that MAS toned down her styling shows that it was just another bad thing. the clothes are bad too.
one collection cannot survive with coats. now, can LVMH survive with selling accessories only? absolutely.
the oversized coats are good and so are the draped blazers.

he lost it. that’s it. after his tenure at Balenciaga I always thought he would become one of the greats. not anymore.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

@90sFan don’t worry, his contract ends next year. Even if he sells well and has the support of Delphine and Burke, maybe he will want to open a new chapter.

!!!! I didn't know that! Unless I forgot lol. I want him to have his own label. But at the same time I like to see him at a big company because he can have the resources to do what he wants.

 

[Lola701]

!!!! I didn't know that! Unless I forgot lol. I want him to have his own label. But at the same time I like to see him at a big company because he can have the resources to do what he wants.

Yes. He signed a 5 years contract with Vuitton in 2013 and resigned in 2018.
Personally my dream has always been to see him take over Chanel because I still think that he understand the way a certain type of women wants to dress. He has range and working for a Couture will allow him to express that in a way that working for his own brand or a brand like Vuitton doesn’t.

I like the idea of him starting his own brand but I think that LVMH will test the water with Phoebe Philo first.

I’m very critical of MAS but I love the fact that even after more than 20 years of working together, she is still pushing herself and Nicolas…Unlike Carine who is relying on the same tricks she used in 2000.

And about Nicolas, I really love his clothes obviously but also the consistency of his vision. Vuitton from 2022 doesn’t look like Vuitton from 2018 that doesn’t look like Vuitton from 2014 but all of that still have the same handwriting. It has an identity, which is of course what I respect the most in designers.

 

[susseinmcswanny]

Personally my dream has always been to see him take over Chanel

Wouldn't that be something. I know it is a dream but do you ever think that could be a possibility? Or they'll ever look for someone new? I feel like they are just gonna keep Virginie. Boo. It seems like it could be too high risk / high reward in their eyes. Maybe I will go to the store sometime and plant the seed about Nicolas and tell all the SA's to tell their manager and manager tell their boss and so on and so on just so I can say I tried heh.

 

[RedSmokeRise]

Fantastic venue & music IMO. I love the outerwear so much.

Argh!! He had me for two-thirds of the show. Then the prints came with all the faces and I was out.

 

[dior_couture1245]

I miss Marc LV.

 

[Mrs.T]

I miss Marc LV.

Me too

 

[liberty33r1b]

what a horrible collection

 

[GERGIN]

This collection needs a demonic cleanse, someone hire an exorcist for this brand!

 

[YohjiAddict]

The first two thirds of this collection could be good because of the color palette and choice of materials but the silhouettes are a mess. You could lose a lot of the bulk and still maintain that nonchalant androgynous attitude, the way it looks now, it’s like the girls stole the clothes from an abandoned crypt.

The last third is so terribly ill-advised, it looks like an even worse version of JW’s work for his own brand when he want to seem youthful. I’ll try and erase it from my mind but I don’t think I will be able…