Maison Margiela F/W 2015.16 Paris

[cutepongki]

I need to see the video now!!

 

[testinofan]

Galliano no out in the finalle?

 

[florylate]

There's something about this collection that reminds me of Martin's last MMM collection. The design and the construction is Margiela, the styling and the theatrics are Galliano. Overall, it is the most exciting collection of the season so far.

 

[Marc10]

Yikes, what the hell was that? It literally looked like a Vivienne Westwood Red Label collection. After the underwhelming debut, I was really hoping he would prove that his comeback meant something. Sadly, I really don't think it does. This doesn't add anything new or interesting to the conversation, nor is precious and glorious enough to live by the nostalgia of being designed by John Galliano. And most importantly, this has zero Margiela in it. If there's any, it's too hidden and certainly not enough. It makes especially sad because Matthieu Blazy was taking the house into such a formidable new era, and this feel like a very irrelevant and unsuccessful throwback.

 

[dior_couture1245]

The shoes are to die for! These are so, so, so gorgeous! The proportion is fantastic and so flattering. Such a fresh proposition

(style.com)

These two looks are the best looks to come out of the entirety of fashion week so far.

(vogue.co.uk)

 

[Mr-Dale]

The suspense leading up to John Galliano’s first ready-to-wear collection for Maison Margiela was palpable, with skeptics at every turn looking for any shred of information to hold against the creative director. Those skeptics, though, are going to be disappointed, because Galliano’s debut has already been regarded as a hit.

The designer sent out an edited collection rife with quirky accents (read: furry shoes and bright orange berets), which garnered him an undying round of applause after the finale. When Galliano refused to appear for a bow, a gesture he obliged to do at the house’s Couture show in January, the audience—a tightly edited bunch of international editors, buyers, stylists, and fashion influencers—began to cheer loudly. After taking a brief reprieve from applauding when it seemed unlikely that he would show, the crowd then resumed, with photographers screaming, “John! John!” and Net-a-Porter’s Natalie Massenet shouting, “We’re not leaving until you come out!” to no avail. If ever there was a sign that a collection was a success, that was it.

While we can report on the audience reaction to Galliano’s debut, we’re still a little speechless over the hunchback creeping models on the runway. You’ll have to wait for Tim Blanks’ review to get the lowdown on that.

style.com

 

[dodencebt]

^ To be fair, a version of that suit appeared at Michael Kors two weeks ago.

I am a firm Galliano believer but this is a hit and miss for me. I love the theatrics and I do like the direction, but half of the looks left me wanting more. I'm sure John will completely get into his element soon though.

Also, I don't like fur shoes but these ones are amazing!

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

style


Rick Owens did shoes like that in 2007....

 

[Inlimbo]

^Right! Fur shoes are nothing new and they have always been ugly.

 

[StoneSkipper]

 

[Thefrenchy]

What a mess... Possibly one of the worst collections i've seen recently. I'm sure it wouldn't get half the praise it's getting here if it hadn't been done by Galliano

 

[Royal-Galliano]

theatre pieces... it feels like going back in time. in a wrong house.

 

[Lola701]

I hate the presentation and the sets. For me Margiela has always been about the clothes and the personality behind them but also, the personality who is wearing them.
The clothes are good, relevant and a bit Margiela and a bit John. It reminds me a little bit of his early 00's stuff.
But, the presentation and the cast make it looks costumey because those models are playing characters.
Margiela was successful because it was for womens who were brave enough to wear his clothes in their everyday life.

The collection is good but John have to loose all his theatrics. He doesn't need them. His clothes are strong enough.
Margiela was a showman but it wasn't about theatre.

 

[MagFan]

HQ

vogue.it

 

[Marc10]

What a mess... Possibly one of the worst collections i've seen recently. I'm sure it wouldn't get half the praise it's getting here if it hadn't been done by Galliano

LOL, totally. Also, it's really funny to see the double standart of people who were so utterly outraged by Slimane's Saint Laurent rebranding and direction, but are perfectly fine with John doing something similar here.

 

[MagFan]

vogue.it

 

[MagFan]

vogue.it

 

[rip_ian curtis]

So incredibly sad this pairing did not work out as expected...

I believe this collection is something none of the optimistic ones (me included) did not envision to see when his appointment was announced. Where can it go from here?

 

[Spike413]

I hate the presentation and the sets. For me Margiela has always been about the clothes and the personality behind them but also, the personality who is wearing them.
The clothes are good, relevant and a bit Margiela and a bit John. It reminds me a little bit of his early 00's stuff.
But, the presentation and the cast make it looks costumey because those models are playing characters.
Margiela was successful because it was for womens who were brave enough to wear his clothes in their everyday life.

The collection is good but John have to loose all his theatrics. He doesn't need them. His clothes are strong enough.
Margiela was a showman but it wasn't about theatre.

But in all fairness the theater is one of John's main contributions to the house. It would be a fools errand to try to be Martin Margiela because nobody else can be, just as nobody should ever try to be Galliano. It's futile.

With all of the musical chairs that have gone on in fashion I think it's becoming more and more important to judge a designer who's installed at an established house while remembering that it's so-and-so FOR such-and-such. It's almost like a cover version of a well known song or a remake of a movie. You can rate it based on how well it recreates the original or you can rate it based on how well it takes the elements of the original and reworks it to create something that is, in it's own way, original as well while still retaining the essence of what came before it.

In that way I can see why this collection could be called a success. It marries the design philosophies of both designers pretty well considering how different their approaches to fashion are.

 

[orthelian]

LOL, totally. Also, it's really funny to see the double standart of people who were so utterly outraged by Slimane's Saint Laurent rebranding and direction, but are perfectly fine with John doing something similar here.

I was actually going to say that all of this reminded me a bit of Slimane's Saint Laurent, and it made me kind of sick looking at the pictures the first time...
I really love Galliano and though the couture collection was really interesting as far as the combination of his aesthetic and that of Margiela, especially the deconstructed finale, but I just can't manage to like this. There are very desireable pieces here and there if you look at them one by one, but the horrendous styling is so distracting that it's very hard to see. And man, some of those models really freaked me out, and not in a good way. That is seriously going to haunt my nightmares.
I think if the styling was more clean and sleek, it would be easier to see and maybe my entire opinion of the collection would be different, but in this form, it's just not working.
I'm still optimistic though, at least it is something different, something you can hardly say about Slimane's work...
One thing I will say though, is an aspect to both Galliano and Miuccia is that sometimes I have to digest the imagery a while and end up loving it. But this time, I don't think that is the case.