Maison Margiela F/W 2015.16 Paris

[Spike413]

What a mess... Possibly one of the worst collections i've seen recently. I'm sure it wouldn't get half the praise it's getting here if it hadn't been done by Galliano

Honestly, that "criticism" could be used by anybody towards any designer/collection that they don't like or see the value in (and in eleven years as a member of this website I can assure you it has been) so it really doesn't mean very much lol.

 

[Wintergreen]

Gorgeous, I was hoping for the clothes to be a bit bolder but I really like it nevertheless. Except for those shoes that look like Tribbles from Star Trek.

this isnt Margiela... this is John Galliano just like Dior is Raf Simons. Both are 100% their namesake brand and not the brand they're working for.

Yeah but one is John Galliano and the other is Raf Simons...

 

[dior_couture1245]

What a mess... Possibly one of the worst collections i've seen recently. I'm sure it wouldn't get half the praise it's getting here if it hadn't been done by Galliano

And I'm sure if this was a collection designed by Matthieu Blazy, detractors would probably love it!

 

[Riseup]

I didnt know Marc Jacobs was doing couture now O.o UGLY!

 

[arlekindearrabal]

idk why people are saying this is just Galliano, I totally see Margiela in this. Especially in the coats. They're beautiful.

Yeah the coats and the tubing heels on the shoes

This is so blah… what brought a little life to it what that girl walking all hunched over for whatever reason… lite Galliano on a sterile runway setting

 

[|PerfectTonight|]

This is not Margiela one bit. Nothing feels conceptual(sculptural, arhitectual, technical) there is no antithesis here.

 

[Salvatore]

I love this !

 

[Dann]

I've always been able to admire John Galliano's work, even though I felt the presentation was always a little heavy handed. Or a lot. When he was at Dior, I thought maybe it was some kind of commentary on the feminine heritage of that house, so, still not my cup of tea, but maybe understandable, to an extent.

But then he went to Oscar and did the same thing. Beautiful clothes, ok, but the heavy eyeliner, the crazy hair, like the girls were beaten, abused then left out in the rain all night. And here again the same thing at MMM, clown face paint, doll caricatures... It leaves me speechless.

I don't think he is an anti-Semite. But I think he has some very, very serious issues with women, and in my capacity as an armchair-psychologist I'd say he should examine his misogynistic tendencies. And it appears as though his ego is back in full swing, runway-bow or not.

In my view, This is an intriguing collection, but ultimately a let-down, especially after the spectacular Couture outing earlier.

 

[arlekindearrabal]

I hate the presentation and the sets. For me Margiela has always been about the clothes and the personality behind them but also, the personality who is wearing them.
The clothes are good, relevant and a bit Margiela and a bit John. It reminds me a little bit of his early 00's stuff.
But, the presentation and the cast make it looks costumey because those models are playing characters.
Margiela was successful because it was for womens who were brave enough to wear his clothes in their everyday life.

The collection is good but John have to loose all his theatrics. He doesn't need them. His clothes are strong enough.
Margiela was a showman but it wasn't about theatre.

I certainly agree with all of this, especially the bolded

 

[TianCouture]

^I'm trying really hard to see the misogyny in this, and I just don't. Not even going to touch that one...

On the other hand, I think this collection is really, really good. Not great, but good. You can see where John took his liberty with the Margiela history (which Martin actually told John to do) and yet it still doesn't seem like a full blown Galliano extravaganza. I also love the fact that you can see a glimmer of his work from the early 2000s in this, especially in the frilly little tops towards the end as well as some of the flou pieces. The stockman mini dress with the little fur cap is insanely cute and in consensus with the majority of this thread, I LOVE the bustier with the orange bra. Can't help but to feel that was a little dig towards Dior...

Overall it has a very interesting sensibility and I think the first two outings show a tremendous amount of potential. I'm excited and I haven't been in quite a while!

 

[squilliam]

I've always been able to admire John Galliano's work, even though I felt the presentation was always a little heavy handed. Or a lot. When he was at Dior, I thought maybe it was some kind of commentary on the feminine heritage of that house, so, still not my cup of tea, but maybe understandable, to an extent.

But then he went to Oscar and did the same thing. Beautiful clothes, ok, but the heavy eyeliner, the crazy hair, like the girls were beaten, abused then left out in the rain all night. And here again the same thing at MMM, clown face paint, doll caricatures... It leaves me speechless.

I don't think he is an anti-Semite. But I think he has some very, very serious issues with women, and in my capacity as an armchair-psychologist I'd say he should examine his misogynistic tendencies. And it appears as though his ego is back in full swing, runway-bow or not.

In my view, This is an intriguing collection, but ultimately a let-down, especially after the spectacular Couture outing earlier.

Well he's done similar things with his me swear shows, he's a showman, he just likes theatrics and caricatures, I've never seen any misogyny

 

[Scott]

there are some margiela elements but it's all sort of hidden away beneath all the overt galliano-isms. i dunno,it's not terrible but i guess the fan in me wishes he had toned down the redundant stuff we've seen from him already and started totally fresh. and the presentation with the models walking with awkward stances felt horribly contrived and phony to me. that's not what margiela was about. it wasn't weird for the sake of being weird.

 

[dior_couture1245]

I don't think he is an anti-Semite. But I think he has some very, very serious issues with women, and in my capacity as an armchair-psychologist I'd say he should examine his misogynistic tendencies. And it appears as though his ego is back in full swing, runway-bow or not.

This is seriously reaching.

 

[nataliaapple]

But in all fairness the theater is one of John's main contributions to the house. It would be a fools errand to try to be Martin Margiela because nobody else can be, just as nobody should ever try to be Galliano. It's futile.

With all of the musical chairs that have gone on in fashion I think it's becoming more and more important to judge a designer who's installed at an established house while remembering that it's so-and-so FOR such-and-such. It's almost like a cover version of a well known song or a remake of a movie. You can rate it based on how well it recreates the original or you can rate it based on how well it takes the elements of the original and reworks it to create something that is, in it's own way, original as well while still retaining the essence of what came before it.

In that way I can see why this collection could be called a success. It marries the design philosophies of both designers pretty well considering how different their approaches to fashion are.

Well stated.

I need to let the collection sink in and review it again in a few days. I actually enjoyed the 'theatrics.' It's fun and interesting and honestly, fashion month has become one big bore. I appreciate Galliano's efforts in that respect.

 

[educo]

Talk about a palate cleanser. The bustier look is the best one out of the entire show, but I'm wondering if the choice (was it a choice?) to show in such a sterile environment messed the presentation up a bit. Seeing these clothes made me wish there was something more to the environment. Not in the Dior era per sé, but just a touch more to give the clothes and story he has created more context.

 

[nothingisnothing]

Vetements' the new placebo, so, whatever

 

[Fatalefashion]

How not to love all this? I would not change anything.

 

[ultramarine]

First I was like WTF especially with all the print pieces. They are signature Galliano, not Margiela.

Still, he pays a lot of respect to the house, I dont remember seeing much bias cut (Galliano's signature), what I *did*¨see is typical Galliano styling, which, it might throw off people from seeing the beauty in the clothes.

I will admit, I love the accesories and coats, but some of the printed/busier pieces .. Im not completelly sold on that. Great collection. That bustier was to die for (and the shoes)

 

[AnaD]

Ugh those furry shoes, they make my eye bleed

 

[TaylorBinque]

This collection makes me so happy. Galliano is back in Paris! There are elements that are definitely Margiela but a lot of Galliano’s signature, especially the styling and the theatrics. The pinstripe bustier look is by far my most favourite look of the season. Totally a stand-out.