Marc Jacobs - Designer

[Kimihiro]

Nicolas always felt like an insider thing for me, that I don’t know how to constitute his brand even if his aesthetic is so sure. Being at Vuitton means he can push himself to the extremes without the worry that it wouldn’t sell or be constrained by commercial realities. That said his Vuitton is definitely pragmatic most of the time. A different challenge from his Balenciaga really. If time comes that he has his own brand I don’t know if he will double down in that pragmatism, and I’m not sure if we’ll want that.

Hedi I would buy the clothes, but I don’t think you can do the scale he wants in a smaller brand but I could see it since he tightly controls everything—he just has to do things on a more intimate scale. No CELINE helicopters or Cadillacs. No rock shows, closer to how he did his last Saint Laurent show. Obviously no giant marble stores.

 

[Lola701]

^^
I think the only time Hedi had to « compromise » on his 360 vision was at YSL in the 90’s.

Unless he does a kind of ultra luxe APC.
I used to think that the shows were such a critical part of his creative expression but it turns out that he can do things in a totally virtual way so maybe he can still evolve in a way that he choose to unveil « his world ».

I don't think Nicolas has the cult following that had Phoebe or has Hedi.
Being on the top position in the business doesn't guarantee you success in your solo project...
And I think he knows it.

I can see him pulling a Margiela and living a beautiful life outside fashion.
He looks really in love with his partner.

We will see when he leaves…
We haven’t had time to « miss » him and to dissect his work (he has only missed 2 seasons since 1997). And the generation he was dressing at Balenciaga and some of people who followed to Vuitton…Are still alive and active.
His clothes are very different from all the people around. And I’m talking beyond the experimentations. And I have been wearing his clothes for 20 years now.

And I also think the approach is very different. The Ghesquiere is too eclectic to identify a lifestyle she is part of that someone would want to emulate. It’s a bit similar to Margiela or Gaultier.

Even if I have enough Nicolas’s clothes to wear until I get out of shape, I just wish he would finally launch his brand. He talked about wanting to do costumes designs and interior. If he can throw doing pants and coats in the mix…

 

[Kanzai]

I think Nicolas Ghesquière is a unique case in fashion, because he doesn't seem to care whether he belongs to the “elitist” circle or not. To me, his fashion is intellectual and glamourously soft avant-garde – especially during his time at Balenciaga. For that reason, his work naturally appeals more to industry insiders rather than the general public or international mainstream audiences.

Unlike designers such as Pieter, who constantly tries to assert himself as an “intellectual” and brings dramatic sculptural twists to the female silhouette (LOL), Ghesquière doesn’t need to shout it out. His work speaks for itself – thoughtful, future-facing, and quietly radical. He's a very down to earth and humble afaik.

Nicolas Ghesquière
By Tom Ford
Interview: Nicolas Ghesquiere - Interview Magazine

FORD: How do you feel being French? I am asking you that because I wonder if you consider your style to be French.

GHESQUIÈRE: I don’t feel French at all. That was never really a concern, and it’s limiting to think that way. When I first started, I wanted Balenciaga to be international. I thought the focus should be more on the United States, because that was where people were more welcoming of my work. I think Paris is more of a playground for international designers, so I don’t really feel French. And I don’t really want to feel French.

 

[Phuel]

^^
With Hedi, I don’t know because it’s not so much about the clothes than a project in a 360 way…
But Nicolas has expressed his desire to have his house, I think what Phoebe is doing is ushering a new way to envision an eponymous brand without all the fanfare expected before and that we saw at Tom Ford.

What is interesting is that Phoebe and NG have done the classic trajectory for any fashion designer of their era: interns, assistant, iconic success, huge responsibilities with being the CD of a major house. So what comes after? Back in the day, designers wanted to do Haute Couture. When you have achieved every success, it was the icing on the cake: Mugler, Alaia, Gaultier, Montana had that opportunity.

Maybe creating your little brand, following your own path, doing things your way without necessarily wanting to lead or shape anything in terms of fashion conversation is the way to go.

I feel like Marc wants still to be in the game. He wanted Chanel…Now I wonder if he wouldn’t want Prada or MiuMiu. Maybe his brand not being attached to LVMH would actually be an opportunity for him.

I really don’t see Hedi creating his own brand. His projects have so much envergure that I wonder if he would spend his own money on it.
Maybe he should take over the brand of the Meyers kid.

It's time to let go of these dusty old labels that’s just become hollow corporate machines with their revolving door of installed lesser CDs. These corporate brands’ short-term, slash-and-burn MO of churning out their overpriced merch for the masses; demicouture for the 1%; and designated runway costumes only to be worn by their paid ambassadors, is not a sustainable for their increasing billion+ annual revenue demands. The days of their impeccably-designed, well-crafted coat/jacket/dress being offered to us customers is long gone. That’s the exclusive niche I’m looking forward to that day to see labels “Nicolas Ghesquiere”, “Hedi Slimane” alongside “Phoebe Philo” that will offer us designer fashions again.

This addiction both designer and customer still have clinging on to old brands with revolving door CDs is showing its strain even on these proven talents— hopefully motivating them to start their wn labels. I wouldn’t bat a lash if YSL/Celine/Dior/Givenchy/Gucci etc folded— never to be seen again: Just like all these fashion publications can fold today and I’m good. And I get the impression more and more discerning customers are coming around to this reaction, and placing luxe designs and premium product before a name brand. While the casual fashion shopper only care for logo’d/monogrammed/signature status merch only; they couldn’t care less— nor know more, about the installed CDs at these brands. The average outlet shopper saving for a YSL/Vuitton/Gucci bag to flex, wouldn’t care for the difference between Law Roach and Marc Jacobs. And the reality is, they’d likely prefer Law, frankly.

(Hedi is an odd one. He could very easily impress with a showing of gorgeously tailored essentials in the tradition of the French debonaire— just with a cast of grungy teen skaters, in a dark and smokey bar, and it’s as much classic Hedi as logo’d helicopters dropping off the cast onto a sprawling location. And at this stage of his legend, no doubt LVMH would gladly support his 360 whims for his own label. …Something just sits so perfectly with his version of logo’d merch— from the “Celine” on a skateboard, to the graphic perfection of the “Celien” name on the label in a coat. Only Karl’s Chanel has had that brand of power… Karl's Chanel logo’d guitar comes to mind.)

I don't think Nicolas has the cult following that had Phoebe or has Hedi.
Being on the top position in the business doesn't guarantee you success in your solo project...
And I think he knows it.

I can see him pulling a Margiela and living a beautiful life outside fashion.
He looks really in love with his partner.

Like Lola posted, Ghesquiere could very well have his own small, exclusive label and be successful in that way (like Azzedine). They all can. Whether he wants that-- or still pine away to become another billion euro brand, is an entirely different thing, of course.