Marc Jacobs F/W 13.14 New York

[Melancholybaby]

style.com

 

[TREVOFASHIONISTO]

the fabrics are stunning, but the designs are quite basic, which I guess he made up for in his fabric choice. I found myself wanting to touch everything I saw

 

[Selfportraitgrl]

I'm surprised that so many people are fawning over this collection... not that I think necessarily a bad collection, because it's certainly very attractive and wearable, but as a whole it doesn't really make sense to me and it feels awfully repetitive. Why so much outerwear and so few bottoms?

 

[Spike413]

Everyone will probably latch on to that Prada Fall 09 thing and run with it like this is the spitting image of that (which is a laughable idea since Miuccia hardly invented big, woolen coats with *shock* pointed collars), but clothing-wise this feels very Marc Jacobs; frumpy mixed with grungy mixed with sexy mixed with glam, topped off with a hint of the street. The 90s-esque slip dresses, the bulky sweaters, the vintage-looking coats, the little-girl-grown-up shoes...this is what he built his name on.

No these aren't earth shattering, life altering clothes, nor are they meant to be. They are, however, beautiful as individual pieces and cool looking as a concept. It's simple.

 

[Mathewthew]

I don't like it, but I dont hate it. There's something odd here, but I kinda like it at the same time. It's so simple and dull,the fabric is amazing, I love the metallic. I'm sure it looks pretty amazing in real and in the video. And the fact that he's trying to match the pattern, like what he did for the last LV show is quite luxe for me and appreciated.

 

[LostInNJ]

Everyone will probably latch on to that Prada Fall 09 thing and run with it like this is the spitting image of that (which is a laughable idea since Miuccia hardly invented big, woolen coats with *shock* pointed collars), but clothing-wise this feels very Marc Jacobs; frumpy mixed with grungy mixed with sexy mixed with glam, topped off with a hint of the street. The 90s-esque slip dresses, the bulky sweaters, the vintage-looking coats, the little-girl-grown-up shoes...this is what he built his name on.

No these aren't earth shattering, life altering clothes, nor are they meant to be. They are, however, beautiful as individual pieces and cool looking as a concept. It's simple.

I agree, although, I must say that the issue I tend to have is that the hype/praise doesn't match up to what he presented. Even the Style.com review was two paragraphs about the lighting/installation and one paragraph about the clothes.

Nice clothes, sure. But I personally do not see much more. I thought the set and staging was more interesting than the collection.

 

[Street_a_Licious]

underdesigned as it might be, i'd still gladly take this over the overdesigned and overstyled pieces from the past few seasons. and i believe buyers will be with me on this.

 

[Spike413]

^ Completely agree. More than anything this back-to-basics mood that's been creeping into fashion slowly is a welcome change.

It seems that somewhere along the line a lot of people lost sight of the fact that clothes don't need to be new, new, new, loud, loud, loud, concept, concept, concept to be good.

 

[tangerine]

I also found the presentation and spectacle to be more compelling than the collection. The models, who I thought looked more vacant or shell-shocked than sad, walked a bleak expanse under a swollen sun that reminded me of the part of HG Wells' The Time Machine where the world is ending and there is nothing left but horseshoe crabs under the dying sun. I got the feeling also of the beginning of life on Earth, which in this case seems to have begun, as GERGIN said, with Liza Minelli and David Bowie walking around the house naked.

The clothing, though, didn't make much impression on me at all. I was more impressed by the lack of pants in so many of the looks. The only items that really caught my attention were the handbags, those looked nice.

The production of the livestream was awful, the overhead camera angles were pointless and the switching was clumsy and artless, and broke up the flow of the presentation.

 

[XxpinktinksxX]

For me this Is the best Marc Jacobs collection in a while.

 

[Marc10]

I'm quite drawn to the coats and the tailored blazers, love the length and love the proportion. Not some much on the pajamas. But overall the collection looked very substantial and luxurious, I always appreciate when he opts for a more nostalgic sensibility.

 

[Wolkfolk]

Blade Runner meets David Lynch's DUNE in the most opulent jazz age glamour. What a beautiful show, very haunting and mysterious. In the first half especially I had this strong feeling of a ceremonial or some kind of ritual. Yet it also made me think of a mirage. Very well thought-out and effective, the cinematographic aspect just won me over.

There's definitely a feeling of desolation going on and a need. The need for something distinct that could bring these shadow of models back to life. Like the "melange" spice in DUNE the girls seem to be looking for that thing that could give a meaning to their "lives". Of course they're dressed in stunning clothes, beautiful furs and glitters but it doesn't seem to satisfy them. Clothe wise it's translated in the lack of something in almost every outfit : either pants, a dress or a top underneath their big coats, a bag etc. There's even a girl coming down the runway with nothing but gorgeous long gloves to cover her bare chest. So is this another reflection on the fashion world by Marc ? Even if you deal with such opulence and excessiveness you are also submitted to the fate of life and mother nature's temper. He, Marc Jacobs, "the Sun King of New York fashion scene" had to submit. And so no matter who we are, what we're wearing, we all need and urge for something 'cause after all we're all the same human beings (the girls looked like a big pack of clones , mullet-hair clones...).

As for the collection on itself I love it, of course the beauty of the show makes me a bit biased. But I've said it many times and I say it again, when Marc goes simple and realistic he can create wonders. The clothes are perfectly executed, very flattering, an exquisit use of fabric and fur, many many key dresses, great structure in the outerwear, beautiful accessories especially the shoes. But also a real effort at offering a complete wardrobe from daywear to eveningwear passing by pajamas and revisited lingerie. And for People who say this is just a reharsh of Miuccia's collection I disagree : the codes might be the same but the execution is all Marc. While Miuccia is very literal , Marc's clashes. Miuccia made it all soft and pretty, Marc just punks it up and makes it more loose. I also like that he's never affraid to be a bit gimmicky.

 

[fashionista-ta]

^ that he is not

this must be the shortest mj thread we've had in awhile ...

 

[Crying Diamonds]

The boxy cut to the jackets was divine (and give me a minimal, boxy twin-set and I'm sold) but the rest was extremely plain, and as has been previously said, underdesigned; fur and glitter can't distract from the painfully boring dress worn underneath.
I thought the reference to Raf's Jil Sander swan song with the coat held shut by the hand was sweet, and in parts, it was sexy. But still, very plain.

 

[Deleted member 1957]

i love the pyjama influence the girls look like Elizabeth Taylor I wonder if she inspired the collection

 

[Jinadaze]

I hate this, and what's with the model in nothing but the hot pants, hiding her chest? Ridiculous.

 

[Riseup]

Loveeeeeed the set, amazing.

 

[disco54]

In a season , when many designers are pushing tough, hard edged clothing. I like the simplicity of this, its not boring minimalism either, the clothes are very appealing to me. What I like about Marc, is that his shows inject clothes with even more emotion , giving them a sort of living quality to them.

 

[dior_couture1245]

In a season , when many designers are pushing tough, hard edged clothing. I like the simplicity of this, its not boring minimalism either, the clothes are very appealing to me. What I like about Marc, is that his shows inject clothes with even more emotion , giving them a sort of living quality to them.

Completely agree. It's why I love what he does so much. It's what I also love about Miuccia Prada, and it's why I think both are so particularly powerful - they're both incredibly skilled at taking conventional dressing and making it somehow look so thoughtful, but never overworked or heavy handed.

I love that Marc's show notes describe each look in its most basic terms - pants, jacket, shoes. Perfect. He knows that ultimately, everything in this industry boils down to the simple fact that people have to wear these garments. So - instead of bogging down the actual clothes themselves with phony intellectualism (I'm looking at you, Proenza Schouler), Marc and Miuccia realize the potential and the power of a fashion show. Through casting, set design, lighting, hair, makeup, music, etc. they are able to lift these humble clothes out from reality and give us a story that is fascinating, challenging, intellectual and compelling. It's what makes people want to buy into their brands.

And the best part is when you see a woman wearing a Marc Jacobs or Prada piece incorporated into their everyday attire - and seeing how fantastic they look.

 

[HelplessnessGray]

I'm not sure about this collection. I hate the ridiculous topless outfit but I love the simple but glamorous palette.