Marc Jacobs F/W 2023.24 New York

He isn't kidding, the full show was just a finale walk at the end:

Runway shows are already notorious for being expensive "fleeting spectacles" (Showstudio's words), but this really is on another level.

Also, everyone on social media is violently demanding a "Fur-free Policy" from Marc Jacobs, because of the Fendi collaboration
 
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Come on Marc! We know you’re good why don’t you give it?

I see glimmers of something interesting here, but it feels hurried like the show and underdeveloped. Bordering on cheap looking, really.
 
Pretentious feeling to it all that seems unwarranted for what it is. Why was the AI show notes even brought attention to? To be topical?
 
Marc Jacobs Runway exists in a vacuum. I don’t know if it has a reality, I don’t know if it’s relevant…It’s a bit like Christopher Kane, except that it’s enjoyable and supported by a bigger machine.

It’s an outlet of expression for Marc and maybe if Bergdorf has it in stores, it means that the reality might be different than the perception we had.

The grey pantsuit with the cropped blazer gave me a flash of one of my favorite Vuitton by Marc collection ever: Spring 2008.

I really love the strong shoulders with drapés aléatoires pièces. It just works. I also like the sheer blouses, very CDG (when it’s wearable) and I think the bags are good.

‘There’s something about the mood of the show, the other pieces and the overall aesthetic that reminds me the part of the 80´s I hate.

Marc can reference an era in the most perfect way but I have realized that no matter how clean the color palette might be, he always manage to make it look literal.

It’s funny because one can argue that I love Nicolas and he does make obvious 80’s stuff but Nicolas’s strength is his mix of eras.

When Marc does the 60’s it’s baby doll dresses, when he does the 70’s, it’s long skirts. When Nicolas does the 70’s, it’s baby doll dresses with 70’s color palette…

I wonder if showing in NYC makes sense for Marc. At this point, the brand doesn’t do anything for NYFW…He might just come to Paris tbh, show off schedule between Menswear and Couture like his doing now.
 
I can see LVMH getting rid of this brand or closing everything except the accessories and beauty down as soon as Marc retires. This show tries to be conceptual, but it doesn't really hit the point well. The timing between Paris Men's Week and the Couture one is also pretty unfortunate for the brand.
 
The timing between Paris Men's Week and the Couture one is also pretty unfortunate for the brand.
It’s actually a great timing. It’s all a matter of exploitation after that.

The problem is that Marc exists in a bubble now. He is showing in NYC (nobody cares about NYC on a global scale in terms of fashion), the collection won’t be available anywhere except Bergdorf, no high-profile celebrities…
It’s Marc having his little pleasure funded by LVMH and showing it to his fans and friends and maybe some stylists… That’s it.

Jacquemus who doesn’t have the quarter of budget of Marc is doing the most out of it.

Hedi will probably be the talk at the end of the week.. (I don’t know how Alaia will decide to show).
 
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I like this a lot.
Marc references are always so well done and undoubtedly made his own.

I only wish it was longer because it deserved to be more developed.
all the draped dresses are fantastic. love them.

vile hair, indeed even if it’s an obvious mood.
pulled back sleek hair or anything else really would’ve been amazing but perhaps too much on the nose.
 
Seems like a collection that would appeal to Deborah Harry...from the band, Blondie.

that's not a bad thing, Debbie Harry isn't a style icon for nothing!

There are things in here that I like, e.g. the striped suit, drapey short dresses and the gold top with the buttons+fuller trousers. If Marc wants the runway to be his personal indulgence, I'm not against that - but it does seem a shame for one of the seminal designers of the 90s and 00s to be reduced to whatever the Heaven line is in popular perception now.
 

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