ShoeGal4Eva
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who on earth is going to wear those ridiculous shoes????
The Red Carpet Highlights of... The 82nd Annual Venice Film Festival 2025!
ShoeGal4Eva said:who on earth is going to wear those ridiculous shoes????
September 13, 2006
Cloudlike Clothes to Upstage Stars
By CATHY HORYN
Hitching a ride on the celebrity comet of Ashton Kutcher and Demi Moore as they arrived Monday night at the Marc Jacobs show might make a person feel, you know, special. Or not.
“Stand back! Watch your feet! Get out of the way!”
People scattered, fell back as the couple, seemingly borne along by photographers, scraped past. Yet the truth of the matter is, despite the bodyguards and the hollering and the incredible fuss, no celebrity can compete with the main event, the show. That’s what makes Mr. Jacobs exciting in the fashion world. It’s the knowledge that the effort put into the clothes will always determine our opinion of them, and not another set of factors. Even A-list celebrity fades before Mr. Jacobs’s energy.
It happens that the clothes are very good: light, romantic, strange. Afterward, Mr. Jacobs called the collection “a corny commentary” on how people described his clothes last season, dark and heavy. “I’m not someone who is angst-ridden,” he said. “I just want to make beautiful clothes that girls want to wear.” If only more designers could convince us they actually thought about how young women dress, there might then be more shows of this relevance.
Against the backdrop of Stefan Beckman’s set, evoking a Hobbitland of green hills and sky, and with music from Pachelbel’s Canon (as covered by Brian Eno), the models traveled a two-lane runway, its median filled in with thousands of blue-green lozenges. White, gray, silver and smoky lavender were the primary tones of the collection, beginning with a long-sleeve shirt in Tyvek paper and loose, belted khaki pants that looked splattered with paint, but were in fact appliquéd. A silver trench coat appeared over soft, billowy pants in cream linen, a masculine style that more or less defined the bottom half of the collection. There were also tulip-shape shorts.
Those pants — along with snug caps made from bits of things, including paper and gauze, by the English milliner Stephen Jones — gave the models a nomadic, patched-up elegance. And while Mr. Jacobs didn’t abandon the layers of last season, it was plain he meant to shift the focus to lightness, in the full, airy shape of linen and gauze trousers, in a cropped jacket made from creased rows of cloudy white tulle, in short dresses with flyaway panels of striped silk. These were shown with black wedge shoes, thong sandals with clear spool heals, and soft bags coated with jewel-cut plastic stones.
Just as with last season, the influence of Comme des Garçons and Yohji Yamamoto was present but hardly intrusive. You could picture women going for the individual pieces: the papery shirts, the multilayered cashmere tank tops, the weird tulip shorts. Mr. Jacobs just provided them with a great road map.
MARK JACOBS
Fashion is global.
An overused cliche, perhaps, but not entirely true, as we still take very different expectations to the various fashion centers. And Paris still reigns as the capital of fashion thrills.
Which is why that semiannual trek to the Lexington Avenue Armory is so packed with anticipation. We go expecting more than a pretty dress, and almost always, Marc Jacobs delivers, often rejuicing favorite motifs with a new punch.
Even so, well into his mature designer phase, the flowering of the past few years has been something to see, growth that found breathtaking expression in the collection he showed on Monday night. It exemplified very clearly the influence of 10 years in Paris on Jacobs' American roots, his natural audacity and wit refined and bolstered by the French sophistication and obsession with creativity.
The collection gave a lyrical aura to some pretty outlandish themes, "lighthearted and a bit corny," according to Jacobs. "Too conventional feels old-fashioned."
He showed against a stunning Stefan Beckman set, sweeping wallpaper hills behind a bright green runway raised over a rippling stream made of candy.
Jacobs kept the palette and the mood light as air — the music was a variation on Pachelbel's "Canon in D" — despite the abundance of stuff worn in various displays of eccentricity, the overall girliness twisted by a faux-butch counterpoint.
There were mesmerizing metallics, cellophanes, laces, ruffles, avian appliqués, jersey collages, glitter and khakis, not to mention ample evidence that Jacobs has developed a headgear fetish. "The more loaded up, the better," he said. "People like fashion at the moment."
It's hard to imagine fashion girls not liking the gorgeous coats and jackets, winsome dresses, delicate blouses and eccentric Ts. And, of course, the gleefully ostentatious handbags, in pairings of exotic skins with big, flashy jewels.
As for the pants, they were a middle-school English teacher's dream, a lesson in comparatives — tricky, trickier and trickiest, à la early As Four. Still, Jacobs insists they're not a joke.
But no matter. The real message here was about knocking grand fashion off its pedestal so that it speaks to the (rich) girl on the street.