Marni F/W 2022.23 Milan

Risso should do his own brand and leave Marni alone, maybe move his shows to NY too, where this sort of crap might impress someone.
There seems to be no end to the visual torture he imposes on us every season.

I wonder, who the heck buys this stuff?
 
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This guy just took over someone’s brand and destroyed it. This is pure destruction.
I can imagine how Consuelo feels right now…
Your hardwork, your legacy, almost your life looking like this. He doesn’t respect or love the brand. That’s the main issue for me.
 
I appreciate the rebelliousness and anarchy of it, it's like f#ck clothes!
 
I appreciate the rebelliousness and anarchy of it, it's like f#ck clothes!
On paper it can but maybe at a brand more in tune with that sensibility.
It’s interesting how he never mention Consuelo or even tries to reference her work. We have a brand that has always been successful where the creative director acts like he revived it from death…

it’s painful to watch.
 
We have a brand that has always been successful where the creative director acts like he revived it from death…

it’s painful to watch.
Totally and it's disrespectful, too. I don't even know if I ever learned the name of this person (and don't want to know, thanks!) but in a way, he's simply following a strategy that's proved to be successful, that is applauded and fiercely defended.. when you see dinosaurs like Hedi succeed by doing this time after time, why wouldn't he, it's like today's 101 of decimating a label: always pretend it was ashes/gone/irrelevant before you stepped in to the point the people that created something enticing enough for you to accept the job are not even worth any acknowledgement or minimal gratitude.

Anyway, some of these dudes in the show should at least learn how to scrub their knees, considering this is a first and last time on a runway for some of them. It just adds to the hideousness of it all, which, I got to admit, is perfectly balanced in casting and clothes, it's just impossible to say one is worse than the other.
 
when you see dinosaurs like Hedi succeed by doing this time after time, why wouldn't he, it's like today's 101 of decimating a label

As much as I dislike what Hedi did from SL onward, I beg to disagree.
First, Hedi an authority to do what he did, strong from his Dior Homme days. His SL was not really (or not only) disrespectful, as much as it was fixated with a specific period of the Saint Laurent history, ie the early Rive Gauche period, while ignoring all the rest (and, bless him, Hedi did ignore an awful lot of it indeed). Plus, I would add, Hedi was called to give a boost to what was in the end a flagging business, Pilati's effort notwithstanding. As for his Celine, it was not faithful to Phoebe's aesthetics but ultimately the brand had not had, prior to Phoebe, any particular identity trait worth preserving.

Marni is a completely different story. It did well financially, albeit they probably needed a strong financial partner to expand further, and the brand had a very recognizable profile that needed no fixing, because it was working.
Risso came from nowhere (my hope is that soon he'll get back there), got a kick from la Wintour to get where he is, undeservedly, and deliberately set off destroying all that Marni stood for, season after season, with no respect either for the founder or the clients.
And for what, I keep wondering? Is Marni doing better than before? I doubt it: two key stores like the standalone boutiques in London and Tokyo, major markets for them, shut down in the meantime; plus, Renzo Rosso and the OTB bean-counters are keeping mum about the financial performance of the brand. I think I know why.
 

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