Martin Margiela - Designer

[fashion.fashoff]

these are a few vintage margiela pieces from my collection:

women's artisanal line 0 dress with applied foil and vintage lace trim, s/s 2003

men's artisanal line 0/10 partial shirt made from top of tee-shirt and dress shirt sleeves

men's artisanal line 0/10 shirt made from 3 dress shirts

reproduction series jacket (reproduction of a 1970s french waiter's jacket)

women's artisanal line 0 scarf made from shoelaces

jacket from "a doll's wardrobe" collection (doll clothes magnified 5.2x but retaining disproportions), a/w 1994

pix by me

 

[Scott]

wow,thank you so much for sharing those gorgeous pieces,fashoff!!

those pieces are from before the artisanal we now know and see. it was a bit simpler as he did more of the experimental aspects in the mainline ①.

 

[gius]

the applied foil lace dress
the foil looks like it is trousers

 

[fashion.fashoff]

you are right it does
it is the way the dress is hanging & the light is reflecting off of it. the foil is just one large rectangle

 

[Ariadne]

The doll's wardrobe collection sounds fascinating. Thanks for sharing your photos.

 

[Scott]

^you really must get his books because that collection is one of his most interesting. the way he interprets the silhouette of doll clothes....it's really fascinating and perhaps his most playful.

 

[C0UTUR3 4 SUR3]

Those are very cool pieces Fashion.Fashoff. Thanks to everyone who posted pics here.

 

[fashion.fashoff]

wow,thank you so much for sharing those gorgeous pieces,fashoff!!

those pieces are from before the artisanal we now know and see. it was a bit simpler as he did more of the experimental aspects in the mainline ①.

^yes i definitely have noticed that recent artisanal collections are much more complex. i saw some of the a/w 06 pieces in person and wow!

i have a question--are the artisanal pieces all one of a kind, or are some produced in multiples? i would think things like the artisanal examples--shoelace scarf, etc--i posted above could easily have been produced in some quantity, but some of the other artisanal pieces, especially recently, look like they must be unique.

also are the pieces assembled from other garments constructed from actual vintage garments, or from newly made pieces? or both? such as the men's shirts i posted above, are those made from vintage garments mmm just found?

 

[fashion.fashoff]

The doll's wardrobe collection sounds fascinating. Thanks for sharing your photos.

these are more examples from the a/w 94 "doll's wardrobe" collection, as seen at the mmm 20th anniversary retrospective.

pic from image.blog.livedoor.jp/tokiolondon/

the doll's wardrobe collection is one of my favorites from mmm. the reason it is fascinating and disconcerting is because the garments are familiar, but with strange features. since everything in the collection was merely magnified without any correction to proportions, there are weird things like oversized buttons, slightly off-center features (such as the black tie in the image above), too short or long sleeves, etc. in psychoanalytical terminology, the collection would be dubbed "uncanny", i.e., something familiar but in an unfamiliar context.

 

[softgrey]

this thread is looking incredible...
thanks so much for all these amazing images...

straw- these are fantastic pics- thanks for sharing....

 

[Scott]

according to his stockist info on the web site,0 artisanal is available in his two paris flagships,london,ny,LA,munich,his two japan shops and milano. so if that's an indication i would expect he does re-produce those pieces but only in his shops. i dunno in what sense though...maybe select works for each space or he's collected an awful lot of the same material he's worked with. that's such a mystery. i do know what he actually presents in 0 is all recycled material but whether it's re-copied and manipulated with his own created material and sold in all his stores that way,i haven't a clue.

 

[user500]

does a picture exist that shows the dollls wardrobe inspired pieces on a person?

 

[Jamess]

according to his stockist info on the web site,0 artisanal is available in his two paris flagships,london,ny,LA,munich,his two japan shops and milano. so if that's an indication i would expect he does re-produce those pieces but only in his shops. i dunno in what sense though...maybe select works for each space or he's collected an awful lot of the same material he's worked with. that's such a mystery. i do know what he actually presents in 0 is all recycled material but whether it's re-copied and manipulated with his own created material and sold in all his stores that way,i haven't a clue.

In the London shop they regularly have one or two artisanal pieces on show and for sale. I remember when it was the old shop (they moved a few months ago) they had 2 pieces in (a top made from mirrored squares and a waistcoat made from bottle tops) and also a kind of catalogue with photos of all the artisanal pieces and notes of how long it took to make each one etc (not just current items but spanning several years). I was told they get one special artisanal piece in per month.

They produce lots of other things under the '0' line, not just what they show in the couture. Artisanal t-shirts etc that have been cut up and reassembled, or hand-finished in some way.

I think the artisanal pieces that make it to the shop are all authentic recycled items, the bottle-cap waistcoat was amazing, it was completely covered in a kind of flexible glue or resin so there were no sharp edges. I remember it was over £2000 though..

 

[Scott]

^i see! thank you for that info jamess.

 

[fashion.fashoff]

does a picture exist that shows the dollls wardrobe inspired pieces on a person?

this is the doll wardrobe jacket on me. as you can see it is almost a normal blazer, except the sleeves are too short, the shoulders too narrow, and the bottom part is too wide compared to the fitted waist/midsection. also the buttons are oversized, and are not actually functional (the jacket closes with oversized metal snaps)

here is a shot of a doll's wardrobe sweater on a mannequin, illustrated in the book "belgian fashion design"

pix by me

the weirdness of this collection is subtle, not overt. just various proportional details are slightly off.

 

[adore dior]

i just bought these shoes a few weeks ago. it's kinda hard to walk in because the back keeps poping off when i walk. and i have only wore them once and already the bottom of the shoe is wearing away. anyone else own these. it's a snake skin print on leather

i still love them the style has an amazing look. i need to bring them to a cobbler so they can put a couple of those things on the bottom because i'm sliding all over the place on certin surfaces

 

[laika]

amazing pics, fashoff, your collection is utterly enviable. Also so wonderful of you to post the doll clothes being worn!



Love the flip toe flats, adore dior. I would not wear them out of the house without a protective soul though.

 

[user500]

thank you fashion.fashoff! (i own that great book, too. seems like many people here own it)

 

[Scott]

yup my first fashion book too!

 

[from: sophia]

I have seen a lot of his artisanal line in person and it really is stunning I think it is reconstructed from found items from the look of it. There is a scarf made of hats which is great to look at and see how it is made the hats are revited together.