I can only confirm that Ames' clothes are perfectly finished and usually very considered both in cut and fabric choice... It's nice having someone with such a pragmatic and strict eye on quality, a notion you don't quite get from a lot of designers doing 'high end' these days, but more for the display of style rather than quality.
As far as this collection is concerned, it's a bit of a hit and miss to me. His talent shines on some of the pieces with more controlled volume but comes up as weight-y where it's all too monastic-covered up, therewith giving his clothes a somewhat 'studied' difficulty that some of Raf Simon's clothes for Jil Sander womenswear also exude at times.
His minimalist choice of fabrics and the cleanness of his line really made those graphic patterns from the start of his career so strong and impactful and I'm missing a bit of that in his more recent effort. I'd hope he would pick up on that and think of less tricky, more controlled volumes than what he's done lately.
