Matthieu Blazy - Designer, Creative Director of Bottega Veneta

[Monsieur Cristobal]

To be honest, so many brands are jumping on the bandwagon of niche lines with extended collections that I’m more inclined to go back to mainstream old success.
I can still do Serge Lutens, Diptyque but I’m more into old mainstream success/fails from those big brands.

Totally agree.
The niche fragrance world is saturated. Les Exclusifs, Hermessences, Dior Privé, Armani Privé have been there forever. Not to speak of Tauer, Dyptique, CdG, ELdO, F. Malle, Amouage and a myriad of independent brands...

I find surprising that Kering's main plans are to expand in the near future into perfumery/beauty.
It's like arriving at midnight to Christmas Eve dinner.

 

[tourbillions]

Their main client is obviously the middle east with these niche perfumeries... Not sure how they can compete with the equally successful, oriental niche perfume brands.

 

[thegentlemanboyfriend]

Totally agree.
The niche fragrance world is saturated. Les Exclusifs, Hermessences, Dior Privé, Armani Privé have been there forever. Not to speak of Tauer, Dyptique, CdG, ELdO, F. Malle, Amouage and a myriad of independent brands...

I find surprising that Kering's main plans are to expand in the near future into perfumery/beauty.
It's like arriving at midnight to Christmas Eve dinner.

Luxury beauty is still growing unlike Kering’s other businesses. So I don’t know how “saturated” the niche perfume world is, but at least not in the business sense.

And what’s their alternative to “niche perfume”? Launching perfumes that are priced at mass fragrance price point? Or not launching at all? Doesn’t sound right either.

I wouldn’t even necessarily call this a “niche” line when this is effectively their only line of perfume that they make today so there’s no real need to differentiate (unless you compare them with their discontinued stock). The scent certainly isn’t niche, if you ask me. It’s just a line of perfume that happens to be priced at a “niche” pricing. But considering how BV generally price their products, perhaps it’s just a BV price, not a niche perfume price.

The only thing “niche” about this line of perfume is the bottle, which even if you hate it, you have to admit it is totally different from other luxury brands’ expensive lines of perfume bottles that look basic AF.

 

[Monsieur Cristobal]

Luxury beauty is still growing unlike Kering’s other businesses. So I don’t know how “saturated” the niche perfume world is, but at least not in the business sense.

And what’s their alternative to “niche perfume”? Launching perfumes that are priced at mass fragrance price point? Or not launching at all? Doesn’t sound right either.

Not launching at all sounds right to me! 🤓

Being the last one to do one thing, just because everybody else did it, takes you the time and energy to do that other thing that you would be the first one to do.

I agree that "niche" is not the proper name. I call them "privées" because of the impact of both Armani and Dior; niche to me sounds to "independent small perfumery house".

Good luck to them! But it is not because beauty still performs well that it is a warrantee for success. The privée line of Givenchy, L'Atelier, was a flop (although I liked it a lot).

 

[Lola701]

Totally agree.
The niche fragrance world is saturated. Les Exclusifs, Hermessences, Dior Privé, Armani Privé have been there forever. Not to speak of Tauer, Dyptique, CdG, ELdO, F. Malle, Amouage and a myriad of independent brands...

I find surprising that Kering's main plans are to expand in the near future into perfumery/beauty.
It's like arriving at midnight to Christmas Eve dinner.

Yes. It’s almost too late for KERING.
There are so many brands and at some point, people will go back to their « valeurs sûres ».

And tbh, by the time they get the licences of Gucci and YSL back (if it ever happen), what will be the added value?
I think at Gucci, people would want to experience the fragrances made under Tom Ford.
At YSL…I don’t know.
I’m currently using Cinema by YSL and Chance by Chanel because I wanted to go back to those « lost » fragrances of mine.

I feel like every week, there’s a new brand, a new launch, the prices are getting higher, the norms are making some of those fragrances change drastically in terms of projection.

Their main client is obviously the middle east with these niche perfumeries... Not sure how they can compete with the equally successful, oriental niche perfume brands.

They have very strong fragrance there indeed but I think that the fragrance industry is in a need of a new and strong POV or new and strong trend.
OUD has had it moment and it’s maybe time to introduce something else.

I feel like this is what those « Privée » lines should offer. At first it was about a strong POV, something more « niche » in taste because that kind of perfumery started to gain momentum after years of clean and then of gourmands.

When I see Tom Ford or Dior discontinue fragrances from their private lines, I’m puzzled. Because indeed, as usual, the artistry and POV has been lost in the middle.

 

[Vikingtop]

I think the strategy for BV is to focus on very important clients....

Someone buys a bag and the sales assistant can offer some small leather goods connected to already the purchased bag... then maybe a fragrance....then maybe some gold-plated jewelery..... then maybe a second bag or a little leather jacket and so forth.

I think the main goal is to make the consumer experience more deep and build consumer histories.

At Hermes they offer some fragrances, jewelery, clothes, even TABLEWARE, even if the client wants a bag.

On the other hand there are many fragrance collectors having hundreds of fragrances and thirsty for new stuff...



I think the crucial phase for Bottega Veneta (and Kering Beauty) is more developing a BV or Balenciaga skincare line in future (maybe in a some years...). But at the moment Kering has other difficulties......

At the moment noone can foresee how successfull BV fragrances will be.
In the past there was Bottega Veneta casa line with furniture... and it failed

 

[Lola701]

I think the strategy for BV is to focus on very important clients....

Someone buys a bag and the sales assistant can offer some small leather goods connected to already the purchased bag... then maybe a fragrance....then maybe some gold-plated jewelery..... then maybe a second bag or a little leather jacket and so forth.

I think the main goal is to make the consumer experience more deep and build consumer histories.

At Hermes they offer some fragrances, jewelery, clothes, even TABLEWARE, even if the client wants a bag.

On the other hand there are many fragrance collectors having hundreds of fragrances and thirsty for new stuff...



I think the crucial phase for Bottega Veneta (and Kering Beauty) is more developing a BV or Balenciaga skincare line in future (maybe in a some years...). But at the moment Kering has other difficulties......

At the moment noone can foresee how successfull BV fragrances will be.
In the past there was Bottega Veneta casa line with furniture... and it failed

Hmm…
At Hermes, it’s different. SAs offers items because they don’t receive commission from somebody purchasing a Birkin or a Kelly. So they will likely encourage someone to discover more from the brand. Even more considering that Hermes sells their mainstream fragrances in Sephora and other beauty retailers. And it has evolved because back in the days, they used to sell a lot of carrés and so the clientele who came to Hermes didn’t necessarily came for those bags.
When I bought my first Hermes bag, things were slightly different.

A top client at BV is likely already a RTW client and has already quite an extensive purchase history. That client was already invited for the launch of the fragrance collection and is already attending the trunk shows.

I just think that they are doing things in a more cautious matter with BV. And BV is the Hermes of the group.

Those fragrances are made to attract more customers. The people who are buying the shoes and the it bags.

The Top customer is good for a long term prevision but in a way, that customer is acquired.
I think BV needs some kind of consistency. And for me, it will always be the issue with the current system of fashion. As luxurious as it is, BV needs to feel like a staple.

And I think they needs to think about things on a 10years plan for example. A lot of things in terms of creative direction, inherited from Daniel Lee, feels still timely.

 

[Vikingtop]

That is true!!!

 

[Living Proof]

These will not be sold at Sephora. Kering is bringing all the beauty licenses home to Kering Beauté, which means the distribution will also change completely.

BV’s licensing deal with Coty ended, the new ones are a completely separate entity to the one they released years ago, as these were done by the same team that are developing new perfumes for Creed. They will eventually be in department stores but likely not in specialist beauty retailers like Sephora. Gucci’s license with Coty ends in 2028, after that they will develop and launch Gucci perfumes the same way they did with these new BV ones.

 

[Living Proof]

Hmm…
At Hermes, it’s different. SAs offers items because they don’t receive commission from somebody purchasing a Birkin or a Kelly. So they will likely encourage someone to discover more from the brand. Even more considering that Hermes sells their mainstream fragrances in Sephora and other beauty retailers. And it has evolved because back in the days, they used to sell a lot of carrés and so the clientele who came to Hermes didn’t necessarily came for those bags.
When I bought my first Hermes bag, things were slightly different.

A top client at BV is likely already a RTW client and has already quite an extensive purchase history. That client was already invited for the launch of the fragrance collection and is already attending the trunk shows.

I just think that they are doing things in a more cautious matter with BV. And BV is the Hermes of the group.

Those fragrances are made to attract more customers. The people who are buying the shoes and the it bags.

The Top customer is good for a long term prevision but in a way, that customer is acquired.
I think BV needs some kind of consistency. And for me, it will always be the issue with the current system of fashion. As luxurious as it is, BV needs to feel like a staple.

And I think they needs to think about things on a 10years plan for example. A lot of things in terms of creative direction, inherited from Daniel Lee, feels still timely.

They’ve already shortened their VIP client list since last season, quite a few of their customers I know that used to get invited to pre-order events didn’t get to go for Summer 25, and could only pre-order off the lookbook with their usual SAs.

I hope they know what they’re doing bc as much as his bags are well-liked, I don’t see an Hermes or even Dior like following developing anytime soon. If they’re not careful they could sabotage the only brand in the group with some momentum. But then again we’re used to Kering self-sabotaging.

 

[Xone]

 

[Beun]

Well, this is good news I think! He's one of the most interesting and creative commercial designers around. Not everything he does is great, I know, but at least he's probing new avenues, and can be wildly eclectic in his output. He also appreciates craftmanship, which is a good fit for that house; He's cultured, sometimes playful in his designs, and his womenswear is miles above his menswear offer, which is perfect for Chanel. It's a boring as hell brand,he might bring some life back into it

 

[Vikingtop]

If he leaves Kering gets more difficulties

 

[thegentlemanboyfriend]

God no pls don’t i love his work at BV!!!

 

[yslforever]

God no pls don’t i love his work at BV!!!

Me neither. He is overdesigning everything, which is the contrary of Gabrielle Chanel ethos. That can create a good clash or a monumental mess.

 

[Living Proof]

Me neither. He is overdesigning everything, which is the contrary of Gabrielle Chanel ethos. That can create a good clash or a monumental mess.

You might want to read that comment again…

 

[yslforever]

You might want to read that comment again…

why ? i don't like his BV at all, and i m not sure he is fit for Chanel, the coco chanel ones
edit; but i would be interested in seeing his Chanel Homme.

 

[Living Proof]

why ? i don't like his BV at all, and i m not sure he is fit for Chanel, the coco chanel ones
edit; but i would be interested in seeing his Chanel Homme.

You agreed with a comment saying they “love” his work at BV when you don’t, so clearly you misread it.

 

[tourbillions]

his BV is only so slightly successful because he is still under lee's shadow.... no way can he head a brand from the beginning. His works are too complicated for its own good and has 0 character.

 

[Living Proof]

Unsure of how much truth there is to it, but I have been told he's being considered for Chanel...

The way MissTweed took this and slapped a giant “exclusive” on it lollll