The problem with McQueen is that it's the biggest poisoned chalice in fashion. Lee McQueen was a genius - it's an overused word, but if anyone was, it was him. There won't be another talent like that in my lifetime, and I'm only 30. Anyone who succeeded him was going to be a huge letdown in comparison, and Sarah Burton did admirably well, looking back now. McGirr is not good enough, but it's an impossible task to take on.
You also can't just close the brand and be done with it, like you could, idk, Blumarine. McQueen is part of the fabric of British cultural life in a way no other British brand except Vivienne Westwood has really become (maybe Burberry at a push). Lee's legacy has inspired a generation of young designers, and I believe the label still gives out occasional bursaries/sponsorships too. It would be a disaster for British fashion if it shuttered, and would permanently end McGirr's career overnight, which would be undeserved as he does have some talent.
I feel the next CD should be British or have a strong connection to Britain. Lee McQueen was heavily influenced by British history and socioculture, and would turn those inspirations into amazing designs, and it's a key part of the label's identity today. But then, who do you choose? Riccardo Tisci's name has come up, but he has been described by respected critics as relying on 'British cultural cliches', which while harsh, has a grain of truth to it. The last thing McQueen needs is to start sending down sexed-up busbies and Union Jack dresses.
The big stumbling block is that every possible candidate is on the wrong trajectory at the wrong time. Jonny Johansson would have been an intriguing choice 7 or 8 years ago, but Acne Studios is on the decline and he isn't that much better than McGirr right now. Daniel Lee has turned a corner at Burberry and looks like he will remain there long-term. Christopher Kane is in the doldrums. Dilara Findikoglu would be a PR disaster after recent allegations of mistreating staff, and doesn't seem quite ready anyway. There's just nobody suitable out there. Perhaps they could go for someone completely leftfield who would bring a brand new aesthetic while retaining Lee's rebellious spirit, such as Jawara Alleyne, but it would be a hard sell with the customers.
The sad fact of the matter is that McQueen will have to keep limping along, hoping for the odd hit bag or scarf (which, in fairness, I do think McGirr is capable of delivering), until the right person shows up. And who knows how long that could take?
