Nicolas Ghesquiere named in Time 100

[fashionista-ta]

that's so rad. thanks for posting. i would have never though to look in that right wing propaganda magazine.

I'd hate to hear what you'd say about Fox

I think a big part of the reason Nicolas made such a splash this year is his return to the archives for the house anniversary. As a result, he made a huge gorgeous statement that was out of step with what everyone else was doing/showing and it took everyone's breath away. Given that Cristobal Balenciaga's own work figured so heavily in this success, one wonders if *he* should be honored in the top 100 ...

 

[fashionista-ta]

So, does Ghesqueire actually design the clothes, or what? Websites always refer to him "going back to the archives", so is he just refering to them in his collections for Balenciaga, or is he actually recreating the clothing?

At least some of what was in the show before last was direct reproduction. I remember seeing a photo of the two side by side (probably here!). It was that gorgeous confection on Gemma.

 

[maybe_tonight]

Nice one! Good on him, he deserves it.

 

[nqth]

He's only had access to the archives for a few seasons. He's referencing them but no more than what Galliano does for Dior or what Lagerfeld does for Chanel.

He actually made the same dresses, as in SS06, as part of his collection.

 

[JJohnson]

He actually made the same dresses, as in SS06, as part of his collection.

Interesting...how can one in the public peruse through the archives? lol i doubt this is possible, but i would love to see past collections

 

[aldn]

meh, i think hes a bit overated

thanks for posting though

The men said YES. The women No.

 

[JJohnson]

The men said YES. The women No.

A big blah to them! He is not overrated! NEVER! I love his creations!

 

[Deleted member 7575]

He actually made the same dresses, as in SS06, as part of his collection.

Are you positive? I was under the impression he tweaked them a bit like he does with the Balenciaga Edition collection which is remakes of classic Balenciaga (that Ghesquire edits and refines slightly before production).


Ghesquire's credit with that portion of his work (which have played minimal parts in only two collections) isn't his imagination exactly, it's his ability to feel context and meaning. Yes indeed he did reference and even remake old Balenciaga but he is reintroducing them in a new context, decades past their time, in a world with new paradigms and values regarding identity, appearance, and the human figure. What those designs mean today is entirely different than what it meant back in the 50's. Among its contemporaries classic Balenciaga was a logical although extraordinary tangent of the general discourse in trends and fashion. Those same designs worn today are up against not only new garments but an entirely different way of dressing. Cristobal Balenciaga sensed this new change when he closed his house noting "there are no more women in the world for me to dress". That quote is paraphrased but you get the idea. For Ghesquire to ressurect those old garments and find a way to make them fit into today's discourse while still keeping their orginal integrity, that is his magic touch. I duely note Andre Leon Talley's cape customized from the most recent F/W 06 show. It's the huge gray jacket dress Hye Park is wearing.

And all of those archival pieces are garnering him attention but it was only a handful of looks in the last collection and even the recent collection really left the references to the minimum. Looking at the accessories and more commerical jackets and skirts you see how the archives are informing Ghesquire's already well developed vocabulary. And compare the more obvious archival looks that were on the runway and compare them with the futuristic and immaculate (but impossible) collections between 2002 and 2004 and you see that Ghesquire is still making his own work. This last collections was pure Ghesquire in my opinion. It had his hypersense of porportions, the perfect balance of awkwardness and elegance, and it had the intrigue to garner a second look and ultimately (as of the last few collections) a purchase.

 

[nqth]

I think in Showstudio they have had a picture "before / after" regarding a couple of dresses of SS06, so that ppl can see the differences (mean the simmilarities:-P)

I think one has to adjust a bit the archival pieces (Ppl are taller and skinnier today) It is natural, as the dresses are like couture. According to Showstudio, he used the same color theme, but "throws life" into them. Well, OK:-)

Maybe it showed that it is not only Karl Lagerfeld who owns forgoten techniques. NG does, too:-))

 

[JuiceMajor]

Impressive accolade...

 

[Royal-Galliano]

I love his collections! Especially that one for Balenciaga for Spring 2006

 

[JJohnson]

hmmm interesting...2 Balenciaga lines. The lower line's tag just says "Balenciaga" and the higher fashion says "Balenciaga Paris" Mutterlein brought this to my attention.

 

[ultramarine]

Well... Ghesquiere did prove his talent on the SS collection ... the matter is it IS too soon to put his name to St Laurent and such .. Im happy for him