Olivier Theyskens - Designer

[Cocteau Stone]

I’m happy to see him get something to further his vision, but happy isn’t the exactly right word either.

His tenure at Azzaro surmounted to nothing. His namesake just disappeared from the calendar and was more by appointment/friends of commissions. He had full capacity to take this approach as a way to inject it into the finances and reach of the name sake but is doing it now as a rebrand? Or is it a diffusion? What happened to “Olivier Theyskens” or did he accidentally sell the trademark?

The business of this is a little concerning. Excited to see what’s presented, but how long is this really going to last…

 

[LadyJunon]

I’m happy to see him get something to further his vision, but happy isn’t the exactly right word either.

His tenure at Azzaro surmounted to nothing. His namesake just disappeared from the calendar and was more by appointment/friends of commissions. He had full capacity to take this approach as a way to inject it into the finances and reach of the name sake but is doing it now as a rebrand? Or is it a diffusion? What happened to “Olivier Theyskens” or did he accidentally sell the trademark?

The business of this is a little concerning. Excited to see what’s presented, but how long is this really going to last…

I do agree that it is kind of weird:
- Azzaro's fashion division just sort of... stopped. No announcement, no press release, nothing. I sort of assumed that it was due to lack of funding, but they've been owned by L'Oréal (alongside Mugler) since 2020, so I doubt that's the case.
- As for his eponymous line, I figured that it was also a funding issue. It's was an independent label surviving on only ready-to-wear that was relaunched a couple of years before the pandemic. It wasn't going to make it.
- As for Boloria, it's an externally owned brand that he has been hired to work for as a CD.

 

[tricotineacetat]

Can somebody enlighten me of the use regarding these visuals? A few videos and photos of models wearing a large suit covered in loose basting stitches, patches and post-its does not come across as a confident preview for a brand we will not see a collection from for the next few months. The fact that Theyskens and Vanderperre are involved does not hide the fact that this gives off an awkward first impression…

 

[Kanzai]

Olivier Theyskens with Willy is an off-putting combo for me. He better goes with pillars of melancholy photography like Sarah Moon and Roversi or even younger faces like Elizaveta/Carlijn Jacobs.

 

[tourbillions]

idk he seems to be the tiredest among his contemporaries. He keep taking on projects that don't really result into anything. One of the instances where the name is bigger than the output.

 

[tricotineacetat]

idk he seems to be the tiredest among his contemporaries. He keep taking on projects that don't really result into anything. One of the instances where the name is bigger than the output.

While I share that criticism, I think I’d always give preference to either him or any of his other contemporaries accepting a misaligned job, if the alternative is that we’re left with another decade or so of conglomerate-style fashion with the same names on rotation.

Truth is, the last time we saw a promising emerging talent was with Standing Ground and even winning one of the LVMH prizes did not prevent him from taking a few seasons off where he (much like Theyskens) only ever put gowns on a few hand-picked celebrities.

All of that makes me miss London Fashion Week as a reliable incubator for exciting independent designers…

 

[tourbillions]

While I share that criticism, I think I’d always give preference to either him or any of his other contemporaries accepting a misaligned job, if the alternative is that we’re left with another decade or so of conglomerate-style fashion with the same names on rotation.

Truth is, the last time we saw a promising emerging talent was with Standing Ground and even winning one of the LVMH prizes did not prevent him from taking a few seasons off where he (much like Theyskens) only ever put gowns on a few hand-picked celebrities.

All of that makes me miss London Fashion Week as a reliable incubator for exciting independent designers…

i dont remember the last time i was excited by london like in the past. It used to be so fresh and full of emerging talent. Albeit sometimes too raw but potential was there. Now it has gone cold

 

[PDFSD]

Can somebody enlighten me of the use regarding these visuals? A few videos and photos of models wearing a large suit covered in loose basting stitches, patches and post-its does not come across as a confident preview for a brand we will not see a collection from for the next few months. The fact that Theyskens and Vanderperre are involved does not hide the fact that this gives off an awkward first impression…

View attachment 1408872

its not looking hopeful i wish him the best but this is not great ...he will be lucky he has 3 seasons ...the project reeks of misalignment on all fronts

 

[reese06]

Let me hold TFS hand real quick…

Let this man go and let go of the optimism: it’s a wrap

 

[TomBlanksFullFatMiuMiu]

He has reduced himself as the same level as Peter Do

 

[jeanclaude]

He has reduced himself as the same level as Peter Do

Worse: Peter has more exposure than him...

 

[Lola701]

Doesn’t smell good to me at all. But we never know.
I feel like we have been waiting for that Olivier moment for years now.
No matter how mediocre it may end up being, it will get a pass. Terrible name indeed.

 

[eugenius]

His career trajectory seems to be like that of fashion’s ultimate comeback-kid: now you see him; now you don’t.

Thinking back to that old group pic from Vogue w/ him, Junya, and..who else? If that were to be recreated with the who’s who of today, with Demna inevitably included, would ANY of today’s designers have the same impact that they did? Absofuckinglutely not.

 

[Squizree]

*sigh* He'll never his former heights will he? I love his work so much.

 

[tricotineacetat]

These were posted on Olivier Theyskens' IG account right during PFW - The abstract leaf-embroidery is very reminiscent of similar detailwork on his FW'05 bustier gowns.

 

[Kanzai]

 

[RosesAreRed]

I miss him and hope he takes over some big brand some day. Like Haider x TF - would be a good combo.

 

[LadyJunon]

Something coming on November 5:

 

[jeanclaude]

Something coming on November 5:

Looks like the teaser for a horror movie...Olivier, just show us the clothes!!

 

[tricotineacetat]

Speaking of the clothes - I don't think this dress belonged to any of Olivier's previous patchwork-themed collections. I asked him regarding more details on this dress and the brief answer he gave was that the patchworking technique was 'quite different' from the ones he did before.

I love how he quietly kept refining a skill he taught himself, even when there was no formal collection shown to the public - This adds a degree of texture to his patchwork that is almost fur-like in appearance.