Olivier Theyskens - Designer

[Spike413]

I've always heard it pronounced as O-liv-ee-yay Tay-skens.

To get a better idea of how it sounds, you could watch any of the recent Nina Ricci videos on Style.com.

 

[BerlinRocks]

^that's the right pronounciation Spike ...
but style.com isn't the best source for french pronounciation tbh ....

Here are a few images of SS 1999 I got from Firstview.com for those interested in the work from his own label:

that might be the collection i wanna see back (according to the description of the yellow gown by spike) ...
could someone please reupload it ?

 

[eugenius]

So, if any of you are avid magazine collectors, or know anybody who is, I spotted an old article on Olivier when he first started out..Harpers Bazaar, possible '99, Madonna (in Gaultier geisha-gear) on the cover.. Great edit & interview, so if you can find it, it's definitely worth checking out..

 

[LetThemEatCake]

^^Yes it was February 1999. Here it is, well the cover. I dont have the article, sorry. I remember having this mag.

madonnalicious

 

[Whitelinen]

^Is that necklace by Theyskens too? Thanks for bringing in the cover

 

[from: sophia]

http://www.kewego.com/video/iLyROoaftIL_.html
A 10 min interview he has such an adorable accent.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

I wish I could see pics form his work at La Cambre ( an amazing dress made of dead birds...)

 

[gius]

fake dead birds?^

 

[Jamess]

I remember in one of his first collections there was a dress made of dead birds. More like a cage than a dress though
He used real ones that had been stuffed I think

 

[Scott]

^yeah they were taxidermy. and it was a/w 2000 not at la cambre. he dropped out after his first year. he also did this beautifully macabre catsuit in spring 99,with the circulatory system intricately embroidered throughout. my friend modelled that actually

 

[from: sophia]

The body suit is one of my favorite things he has done in fact.

 

[*Bianca*]

fashionmag.fr

 

[Jamess]

lol his personal style is getting so tacky
does that t-shirt say Born in Heaven??

 

[Kimkhuu]

What is he up to now?

His last collection for Nina Ricci was
gorgeous. I love his "goth fairy"
inspirations.

Completely breathtaking. He is one
of the best living designers. Too bad
we're living in a f* capitalist society
were money comes before creativity.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

What is he up to now?

His last collection for Nina Ricci was
gorgeous. I love his "goth fairy"
inspirations.

Completely breathtaking. He is one
of the best living designers. Too bad
we're living in a f* capitalist society
were money comes before creativity.

You think in a communist society there would be a platform for such indulgent displays of luxury and wealth? It's only in a capitalist society that makes the kind of thing Theyskens does possible.

Even the most inventive designers, the most theatrical, must sell. And if you can't design clothes that people are willing to buy you must question your skill as a designer. The truth is that Theyskens was hire to design RTW for Nina Ricci and not costumes for bi-annual stage productions.

Theyskens is a brilliant designer, but if he can't bring his ideas down to earth, just enough to make them desirable, then he will be lost- whether with his own house or another one.

 

[from: sophia]

I love that pic with the models it is so funny he is so much littler than the models in those shoes.

 

[b9409]

You think in a communist society there would be a platform for such indulgent displays of luxury and wealth? It's only in a capitalist society that makes the kind of thing Theyskens does possible.

Even the most inventive designers, the most theatrical, must sell. And if you can't design clothes that people are willing to buy you must question your skill as a designer. The truth is that Theyskens was hire to design RTW for Nina Ricci and not costumes for bi-annual stage productions.

Theyskens is a brilliant designer, but if he can't bring his ideas down to earth, just enough to make them desirable, then he will be lost- whether with his own house or another one.

Design is a business.

If he cannot manage to sell, which is something he never seems to accomplish, then what is the use? His pieces look they should belong in a museum or a circus. He was very wrong for Ricci to begin with. He never really respected the brand DNA and heritage. He is extremely creative, but he has no business mind.

 

[Harumi]

Completely breathtaking. He is one
of the best living designers. Too bad
we're living in a f* capitalist society
were money comes before creativity.

Actually there was an audience for his clothes but the women willing to wear them were put out by the extravagant pricing.

As reported in the Nina Ricci thread, one of the reasons why the pricing was so ridiculous was because Olivier behaved like a complete brat, refusing to explain how his clothes were made, not noting down the creative process and not making it easy to reproduce his designs at a commercial scale.
As a result, the clothes were never delivered on time in the shops and the production costs were off the chart.

So the idea of poor Olivier being the victim of the mean capitalist monster is a bit simplistic.
He was given many chances that he squandered.

The truth is that Theyskens was hire to design RTW for Nina Ricci and not costumes for bi-annual stage productions.

If that were really true then John Galliano wouldn't have a career since he made his name at Dior with unwearable costumes (Olivier's design are considerably tamer than John's).
The difference was that he was smart enough to understand that whatever was presented during fashion week would not sell in shops, and accept that his designs would be modified. John also put the emphasis on accessories unlike Olivier who was all about evening gowns.

The problem was Olivier's lack of co-operation and, as you said, lack of business mind.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

If that were really true then John Galliano wouldn't have a career since he made his name at Dior with unwearable costumes (Olivier's design are considerable tamer than John's).
The difference was that he was smart enough to understand that whatever was presented during fashion week would not sell in shops, and accept that his designs would be modified.

The problem was Olivier's lack of co-operation and, as you said, lack of business mind.

Ummm, or actually it's because Galliano oversaw a huge slew of lines that had nothing to do with the runway, t-shirts, logo bags, keychains, basic RTW, etc. He made his NAME with the shows, he made MONEY with this product development. Theyskens never did this at Nina Ricci.

 

[Harumi]

^Uh, do you realise that's excatly what I said?