Olivier Theyskens F/W 2020.21 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[Lola701]

His best collection yet! Simple, effective with a great sensual mood!
BUT WHAT IS GOING ON WITH THE CAST?
It’s starting to be really frustrating now! There are so many great models now in Paris, from Veteran to It-girls! Support the guy for god sake!

This deserved charismatic women! Those models don’t project the strength of this collection...
He better not show up with a weak cast at Azzaro!

 

[Malaya]

right up there with dries and loewe as some of the best of the season, in my opinion

 

[Norden]

The black dress in the end, how it sways at the bottom is beautiful. lovely collection. Seems freer than his previous ones under the relaunched label

 

[RedSmokeRise]

Yes!! Totally agree Lola I Loved how direct and simple this collection is!

The casting is such a bummer since the start of the relaunch. He needs an Erin O Connor appearance asap !

 

[dior_couture1245]

Clothes are good.

But I agree, casting is a problem again.

He needs the kind of cast that Atlein used to have.

 

[Avonlea]

His gowns are always spectacular. I cant wait for his azzaro debut. I dont think that there is a problem with casting. Those models fit his aesthetic and actually remind me of his sketches - skinny and pale with huge dark eyes.

 

[GivenchyHomme]

His best collection yet! Simple, effective with a great sensual mood!
BUT WHAT IS GOING ON WITH THE CAST?
It’s starting to be really frustrating now! There are so many great models now in Paris, from Veteran to It-girls! Support the guy for god sake!

This deserved charismatic women! Those models don’t project the strength of this collection...
He better not show up with a weak cast at Azzaro!

I’m shocked that he didn’t use Elise and Liya considering that they actually walked this season. They would have added a little extra something, but in all honesty the clothes really do speak for themselves. They are so sexy yet so simple. Commercial doesn’t mean boring, he’s managed to do the impossible. Sellable clothes that are chic and edgy. This is one of my favorites this season. The Azzaro announcement has lifted his confidence tremendously. If this is a sign of what’s to come then I am excited!

 

[MulletProof]

The back of this jacket ugh *drools*


(livingly)

Lovely collection.. wouldn't say no to anything really.

The casting is an improvement from last season but I agree that it still weakens his work imo. A part of me wants to be easy on that since he's no longer carrying the big budget to afford the lineups he used to have, but.. it's not even about budget, I don't mind nameless faces, it's just proportions.. especially if you grab elements from lingerie.. if the body's off, it just looks ill-fitted. There are plenty of models out there, not necessarily expensive ones, who can tick all the boxes (the aesthetic he's known for and with the proportions to take such pretty clothes to new heights).

 

[YohjiAddict]

Just lovely, the back of that jacket is what dreams are made of. The cutting is absolutely flawless. The kind of show one doesn't believe can take place nowadays, actual clothes that are classic, expensive and well designed.

God is in the details and that's most definitely the case with his work. A perfect redemption from last season.

 

[Phuel]

Actually really like his casting. It’s likely his personal preference of the ideal women: A little awkward, a little shy, bit mousey, an introvert that's confident in her individuality. She comes off real, and fits his brand of pragmatic, wearable, and still romantic sensibility.

The opening looks are the weakest. But once the slim pant and longer, leaner, knee-length pencil skirted silhouettes appear, it’s all so intoxicatingly sublime and gorgeous in its no-nonsense brand of a new romantic. The black silk slinky knee-length dress cut with the modest turtleneck and worn with skin hugging leather boots and gloves is one of the sexiest imagery of this season. Much like a man who’s got a great built but chooses a white button-down oxford with the sleeves rolled up instead of flexing in a tacky skintight, transparent shirt, Olivier knows how to transform the modest into full sinister smoulder.

Along with his cast, the location— and this sort of location always reminds me of Galliano’s best showing and collection— the one at São Schlumberger’s mansion. It’s intimate, simple and direct, the styling is full-on mood and attitude. It’s so great to see him evolve and move on from that brand of impossibly dark gothic romance of his Nina Ricci days to this brand of a new modern romance that is still his, and doesn't feel compromised or contrived. If I were a woman, he’d rule my wardrobe.

 

[dior_couture1245]

Can I also just say I love that the shoe is just a simple black pump with a bare leg. Nothing looks better.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

he does sexy so well

 

[just me]

Can't wait to see his Azzaro debut.

Those Nina Ricci/Rochas days were unforgettable.

I'd basically buy everything on this show.