Olivier Theyskens S/S 2021 Paris

[vogue28]

VOGUE.COM

 

[MulletProof]

that's it?! I want more!.. it's gorgeous.. the type of pieces that in this impractical year, gives you a little joy to buy, put inside a box and take out later for the right occasion (such as your wedding- look at that white dress! ). There's really nothing I wouldn't want, he's covered about every mood and purpose when stepping out the door here.

I like that he still made it seem like it's a runway show, just more magical-looking with the light and headpieces.

 

[Yohji]

Not that there is much competition, but this is my favourite collection of the season!

 

[RedSmokeRise]

It’s moody, to the point, vampiric bride chic.

One of my favorites of the season.

 

[GERGIN]

When she turned demonic halfway through the look book, I felt that!

 

[Phuel]

Dreamy. And just so intimate and personal. Finally— someone not afraid to have a very distinct mood, vibe and personality that is about a very specific woman-- but with many moods, with each look building to a complete story: Ethereal, raunchy, delicate, vampy, modern and timeless all in one woman. He hasn’t lost a bit of his romanticism nor storytelling magic, and yet still offer a pragmatic collection (that leaves you wanting more).

(The leather pants with white lace shirt followed by the wispy slip of a dress with the veil is pure, masterful, dreambuilding unfussiness. Just supreme.)

VOGUE.COM

 

[YohjiAddict]

Amazing show, it's good to know fashion didn't die of COVID and that there are still designers comitted to their dream and vision.

I felt enthranced, the suit with some red peeking through the seams, like fresh wounds, already told us this girl wasn't playing, she was wild, then she became demonic for a moment just to turn angelic the next. Every look a new chapter in a war of good and evil.

As Phuel mentioned, the only tragedy is that there aren't more looks!

 

[dodencebt]

I can't believe it took a pandemic to get the best out of Olivier once again. F a n t a s t i c c o l l e c t i o n !

 

[Reggie63]

My goodness, this collection is everything. Absolutely, jawdroppingly beautiful. Olivier has never once compromised his vision, and always stayed true to his interpretation of beauty. One of the few who deserve the title of couturier in this day and age.

The collection has so many moods but is so cohesive and coherent that you cannot fail to understand the story he is trying to tell. I understand that the collection is inspired by the multiple phases of one of Theyskens' muses, but for me, it is a virtual celebration of the complexity and multiple facets of women.

Side-note: I cannot help but think that those sculptural veils are the chicest couture face masks to come out of this pandemic! Jokes aside, I hope his temporary store in Paris does well despite travel restrictions. He is terribly and criminally underrated.

 

[Scotty]

Wish he was doing Dior or something. Imagine this with the bigger budget!

 

[dior_couture1245]

Excellent. Really excellent. So many good clothes here...the grey suit with the beret is delicious, the boat-neck, below-the-knee black dresses are so chic, the rouching is so well done, the transparency is masterfully handled here...maybe the best transparency I've seen in years.

He is maybe one of the only designers working today, if not THE ONLY designer, who actually cares about MAKING CLOTHES. Regardless of how dramatic the presentation and styling is, the real drama and substance is in the cut, proportion, construction and fabrication. That is the mark of a true designer and couturier. These are the kind of clothes that if you were to stumble upon them in a consignment shop 20-30 years from now you'd still be impressed and wow'd...the way you feel now when you see a gorgeous, well-preserved 30's gown in a consignment shop.

I personally would have preferred a stronger model, but I really don't have anything else to complain about. It's all quite good.

 

[MulletProof]

Wish he was doing Dior or something. Imagine this with the bigger budget!

why wish hell on poor Olivier after he's basically opened, carried and closed fashion week in 20 looks .. I hope (and I guess he's learned the lesson a decade in advance) that he never goes back to these corporations, look at what independence can do.. even his financial limitations are a testament of the reality you're faced with as a creator these days and how creativity, imagination and a genuine love for making clothes can still take you past that and make you deliver work that is far superior than anything backed up by the richest man in France or whatever.

eta* Imagine the collections we'd see if all these recent graduates that once upon a time wanted to experiment and create and now just follow orders creating.. tights for Louis Vuitton or Céline, had the same guts -or should I just call it suicidal tendencies!- as Olivier (who certainly didn't learn it just like that but after going back and forth and giving conglomerates a few tries until he got the lesson).. we wouldn't be where we're now. Fashion has always been at its most prolific and exciting when it doesn't cut wings by forcing everyone to work in the equivalent of fast food chains.

 

[TheoG]

Gorgeous and quiet dark which is in incredibly timely.

That wig on the model though is the only sour note.

 

[jeanclaude]

If you remove all the clothes from the gothic, Dario-Argento-esque setting, I see the clothes are just diluted versions from his first collections.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ Fair enough. That his signature elements are still relevant and his alone 20 years later is a true testament that none of it was a gimmick— as theatrical as that debut was. He’s matured, as we all have, and his sensibilities have been refined while his spirit is still one of that maverick. That’s much to be admired (…especially when looking at what’s happened to current-day Prada, Dior, Nicolas Ghesquiere, Comme…).

My salary this year has diminished to a fraction of what I’d make annually before this pandemic. Designers duds are the last thing on my mind to indulge in— and still, if I were a woman, I’d be so tempted to scrounge enough to make the silvery birdseye-pattern men’s suit and the white ghostly dress mine. So timeless, luxurious and couture-y and full of character for any woman to make it all her own. Masterfully designed and tailored options that are so divine in their construction and how they mold and enhance to the wearer’s form. And as if the small but opulent offering isn’t enough, a bewitching imagery of a simple and still magical showing: Just a doorway and a hallway, and an inventive, fevered imagination to set the mind wild with its modest yet expensive imagery. Such a simple production with soaring end results. Cherish him.

 

[avonlea002]

Absolute perfection. That's all.

 

[Fiercification]

Yes! He's really back with this collection. Even if the number of looks is modest, I can't find one piece that I don't like. The grey suit is the bomb! Hope he'll gain some kind of momentum and increased support with this set - it's really something.

 

[TianCouture]

Struggling to see the good in this. Gowns and tight dresses just do not seem relevant to the whirlwind of changes happening in the world right now. Sure they will always have a place, but how is this different than anything he's done in the last year. Also: too. much. black.

 

[JohannesL]

Such a waste of real talent, he could have done wonders in any historical heritage brands—Balenciaga, Chanel, or Dior.

 

[Malaya]

This is just amazing. And his collection last season was great, too! Always rooting for him.