^
I know what you mean though... I typically stick to yohji/ann/cdg/margiela/etc because it's much closer to my soul, and therefore very comfortable for me. plus, with having androgyny as your 'base' style... as you said, you can always then add a heel, headpiece, or something else as distinctly feminine.
also I think it's really important what you said about if you look miserable in clothes, it comes across as unattractive. it's all about the mood, the vibe of how your outfits make
you feel... that's the most important thing. because how you feel in your clothing is the mood you will exude to others!
sometimes I personally wear things like vintage corsets, garter belts, etc, underneath androgynous or voluminous clothes. they're undetectable/not visible to outside eyes, but they give me a very feminine posture, walk and overall feminine presence, despite the androgynous or menswear clothes I often wear. because it's less about the actual clothing and more about what vibe are you giving off.
I think whatever we really 'feel' is the style we should gravitate toward... then from there, the accessorizing (or lack there of) and customization of a look can be really evolutionary and personal... it's what makes the journey of discovering our unique styles such a fun and endless one imo
but in the hole i live in, if you go to the places where they sell yarns, the employees of some places do knit what you ask and for not a lot of money, i need to try this myself, soon.. find me a little sandra backlund for myself 
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