OMFG just let the Helmut Lang label RIP
Never cared for— although still appreciate Phoebe’s Celine, but absolutely don’t care for all her spawns, Peter being the weakest of the bunch since his was always Yohji/Ann D/Rick Owens lite mix-and-match in his sensibility. That’s not a slight towards him, because he’s a solid dressmaker and tailor— and again, that’s genuinely stronger praise than meant as a backhanded compliment, since even hyped and successful names like Jacquemus, Virgil Abloah and the majority of new American names are such hilariously poor dressmakers and tailors. His forced and annoying signatures of dangling straps/strings/ribbons; huge shoulders and nipped waists with safari pockets; and Rick Owen lite platforms are fashion victim tropes that doesn’t resonate at all for a take on Helmut Lang. He is just another lesser at another forgettable bid at mediocrity that’s become the unfortunate tradition and ultimate fate of the Helmut Lang label. OG Helmut will always be my one and only true fashion love, but at its current tarnished, diminished and cursed state, it just needs to be put out of its misery until a true veteran talent can wash away the stench of forgettable mediocrity that’s infested the brand since Helmut left. (Glad Lemaire turned down the offer, because his womenswear is very solid while his menswear is awful. And Helmut’s menswear was always as good, if not superior to his women’s.)
I’ve mentioned this before, but the only talent doing Helmut justice at the moment has always been Phoebe since her Celine. And her Celine is just a clever take and extension of the blueprint that Helmut created. And just like Lemaire, Phoebe— with all her veteran’s experience and vast network in the industry, is best to invest and grow her own namesake label.
