Peter Hawkings - Designer

[Nimsay]

Zegna is the new Gucci Group PPR.

Though zegna is slightly worse because like tom ford cannot alter his cut at all without stepping on his “sister” companies toes. Tom literally cant produce a different lapel or even use certain materials because of the very subtle differentiations. If tom does a boucle jacket or a slim lapel suit then that throws the entire group into haywire…

Its really really tight. I personally wouldnt have even wasted time on TB and instead focused on expanding TF repertoire to fully embody a fashion tailor.

 

[kasper!]

I am surprised that no magzine did a feature about him. Elle? Vogue? Bazaar? None of them.

 

[Lola701]

I am surprised that no magzine did a feature about him. Elle? Vogue? Bazaar? None of them.

His work is hardly features-worthy….

 

[style_expert]

I am surprised that no magzine did a feature about him. Elle? Vogue? Bazaar? None of them.

They were too busy writing about Sabato

I like how smooth and more low-key the transitioning between Tom and Peter has been.
Zegna has the right approach for the brand..

 

[PDFSD]

I am surprised that no magazine did a feature about him. Elle? Vogue? Bazaar? None of them.

Because he is not a great communicator with words (to be kind) the guy has nothing to say coming from internal people there is no soul or storytelling like TF is when he talks, what you have now is just designer that is good working under a creative director ..... this industry should learn not all nr 2 can work as nr 1 ´s .....it happening at more brands already

 

[jeanclaude]

What can he talk about?? About how he makes diluted versions of TF glorious past??

 

[Lola701]

Because he is not a great communicator with words (to be kind) the guy has nothing to say coming from internal people there is no soul or storytelling like TF is when he talks, what you have now is just designer that is good working under a creative director ..... this industry should learn not all nr 2 can work as nr 1 ´s .....it happening at more brands already

Tbh, even without being a great communicator. He has not designed anything that either challenge taste, challenge the perception people have of the brand or influenced fashion.
Even if he adopted the Margiela way of communicating, his clothes needs to mean something.

Tom, good or bad always made a point for his work to have a purpose.

A parade of sexy clothes is cute, for the stores, but not really to talk about.

 

[Phuel]

^^^Expecting someone of Peter’s limited talent, mix this with corporate investors that are breathing down his neck for rapid growth, and in a fashion climate that is shamelessly becoming greedy valuing profits over creative integrity more than ever, and the reality of creative risks, innovation, and progression is more of an illusion than ever before.

This retreading of Tom’s Gucci archive offerings is expected. Frankly, I’d do the same: There’s a lot of versatility with what Tom’s established as the blueprint signatures of his line. Signature staples, that much like Ralph Lauren and Armani, will become timeless essentials for the brand. The Tom Ford brand doesn’t need a rebrand like what Alessandro did for Gucci, which BTW, wasn’t that huge of a visionary rebrand, since kidz of that fashion era, fuelled by socials and blogs, with the emergence of the dreaded influencer-plague, were already dressing like baby Edie Monsoons back then. Alessandro just capitalized on that emerging nerdy thrift-store aesthetic.

What I’d do differently, is that I’d ramp up the luxury component, and ramp up the heat on the branding; with the campaigns' and shows’ imagery smouldering, sophisticated and very adult. Because, this current image is so junior department, so Tom Ford-lite, so… designer imposter. That’s what disappoints greatly. The vision is just meek— of which can be even more offensive than tacky, and even Tom’s no stranger to premium tackiness...

 

[LadyJunon]

I really like Peter Hawkings at Tom Ford, it's the first time that I've followed the brand in years. That said, he has the glaring issue of being unsure what direction he wants to take the brand in.

His debut collection starts by leaning into the brand's "prehistory" by reclaiming styles from Ford's tenure and moving the shows to Milan, while reuniting the menswear and womenswear studios in London. Both moves suggests that Hawkings want to take the brand in a more sober, heritage-centered direction. Think quiet luxury, but in Tom Ford's dialect.

Meanwhile, he has these really serious dramatic campaigns that fall more in line with Vaccarello's YSL (even the soundtrack) than Ford's more euphoric, hedonistic depictions of glamour. The backstage shoots by Seklaoui feel more on-brand than Galiegue's campaigns (regardless of how much I love them).

I feel that he's at crossroads with being respectful to the brand's codes, while being respectful to the current fashion climate of sexuality without sensuality. He already has a good base for design and storytelling, positive commercial reception (€65m in revenue in Q1 2024), the approval of his predecessor and the support of Zegna (the planned opening of 8 stores this year) without being the pressure of being a core brand. I think he can afford to "speak" a bit louder.

 

[PDFSD]

Its 2024 already, older TF work still at times look more modern and edgy than what Peter is doing now that's just the plain truth it's not as good or fresh as it should be, fashion is now infested with middle of the road nr 2´s in nr 1 positions.

 

[Phuel]

No one outside of us fashion addicts is going to care— but such a damning statement for the brand when Tom wore Saint Laurent at the MET, and not Peter’s Tom Ford.

That's got to hurt just tad, for Peter.

 

[LadyJunon]

No one outside of us fashion addicts is going to care— but such a damning statement for the brand when Tom wore Saint Laurent at the MET, and not Peter’s Tom Ford.

That's got to hurt just tad, for Peter.

To be honest, I wouldn't be surprised if Tom tries to convince Zegna to appoint Vaccarello at the helm of TF when he eventually leaves Saint Laurent.

Ford's revival of Gucci and YSL was a huge inspiration for Vaccarello and the two seem to be mutual fans of each other's work.

Peter is okay, but I think that the brand needs a bit of sizzle on top of the beauty.

 

[Phuel]

^^^ I’m surprised Tom’s given his approval of Anthony. His SL is at best a midrange-quality brand when it comes to construction and material. It’s nowhere close to high-end nor luxury. Design-wise— that’s up to personal preference (I find it rather basic). But without a doubt, the branding is an impressive premium. I'll give him that.

As critical as I am of Peter’s Tom Ford offering, the quality of construction and material is leagues ahead of SL, at least the suiting and outerwear is (and all I’m interested in). There’s no way Tom can’t see that. Maybe it's really nothing, but something else must be going on to have him turn on Peter in such a damning manner to show out in another brand rather than support Peter-- someone who was his righthand man since the inception of his namesake line.

All the desperate MET clowns/victims/cartoons shamelessly vying for a moment’s worth of attention can’t even come close to the statement Tom made by wearing Anthony’s SL, as far as I'm concern; Tom being the only true fashion icon in appearance that night. I feel bad for Peter this time.

 

[Lola701]

It’s maybe time for Peter to UP his game.
Tbh, I think Tom had his hand on TOM FORD (the brand) dressing the Chris guy and his wife Elsa Pataki as the brand did not bought a table this year (They did for last MET).

It’s a great compliment for Anthony and I can see why. Tom loves a strong aesthetic. And much like he praised Alessandro or Nicolas in the past, Anthony’s has a strong vision for women.

And Tom can’t unsee the direct references made to his work at Saint Laurent since Vaccarello took over.

While it’s an extremely shady move, his heirs are Anthony Vaccarello and Alexandre Vauthier.
He looked good even if Anthony needs to be sharper in his men’s tailoring.

But now I’m curious…Tom had public appearances since he left fashion. He was obviously wearing Tom Ford. Was it his TF or Peter’s?

 

[brandon J pierre]

No one outside of us fashion addicts is going to care— but such a damning statement for the brand when Tom wore Saint Laurent at the MET, and not Peter’s Tom Ford.

That's got to hurt just tad, for Peter.

Yes that was slap in the face for sure ! but I've heard that they already had a disagreement before. I love Peter Tom Ford his day wear is clean and well made! Which sometime Tom him self lack. Unlike Vaccarello. Peter has a great eye for details these are real clothes to compete with the luxury market not just show clothes from season to season. Vaccarello is a better show man but there's usually nothing literally there just nipples and panties 😩.

 

[brandon J pierre]

It’s maybe time for Peter to UP his game.
Tbh, I think Tom had his hand on TOM FORD (the brand) dressing the Chris guy and his wife Elsa Pataki as the brand did not bought a table this year (They did for last MET).

It’s a great compliment for Anthony and I can see why. Tom loves a strong aesthetic. And much like he praised Alessandro or Nicolas in the past, Anthony’s has a strong vision for women.

And Tom can’t unsee the direct references made to his work at Saint Laurent since Vaccarello took over.

While it’s an extremely shady move, his heirs are Anthony Vaccarello and Alexandre Vauthier.
He looked good even if Anthony needs to be sharper in his men’s tailoring.

But now I’m curious…Tom had public appearances since he left fashion. He was obviously wearing Tom Ford. Was it his TF or Peter’s?

He has 2 billion in the bank and he looks great at 60 he can wear anything he wants or be naked. I don't see him wearing much anything else I mean it's not like we're going to see him in D&G or Versace mens ,.

 

[Phuel]

Yes that was slap in the face for sure ! but I've heard that they already had a disagreement before. I love Peter Tom Ford his day wear is clean and well made! Which sometime Tom him self lack. Unlike Vaccarello. Peter has a great eye for details these are real clothes to compete with the luxury market not just show clothes from season to season. Vaccarello is a better show man but there's usually nothing literally there just nipples and panties 😩.

Tom did share his disapproval/dissatisfaction with Peter’s debut in a GQ interview. But that came across as constructive criticism. This move at the MET tho... is such a massive b!tch slap that may as well signify war. Unfortunate that whatever personal relationship they had seemed over. Again, it could just be nothing and just Tom being fickle, of which he's no stranger to. However, a classic dark blood red (..hmmmm...) velvet tuxedo jacket is that brand of fashion iconography that is second nature for the Tom Ford Brand; one that Peter could easily execute flawlessly, despite his limited creative talent. Tom aimed to devastatingly wound with this statement. WTF happened between them…???

(BTW, his look would have been so beyond had he worn a matching velvet pant in that perfect shade of dark blood red. The cut of the suit was admittedly impeccable— something that’s not associated with Anthony…)

 

[jeanclaude]

Tom Ford was the "best dressed" at the Met Gala for me. The rest are just for the circus it has became.

 

[Kimihiro]

This is giving

“in thirteen minutes you've destroyed 40 years of my career”

 

[Nimsay]

The YSL bordeaux tux is leagues chicer and sexier than the TF tux. I already said this a zillion times but the huge lapels are awful … and I said this before but YSL has the best mens tuxedos in the business. It will be hard to dethrone YSL tuxedos - only a mtm tux could even compare.

those wide lapels murder the lines potential. Can we please get a slimline peaked lapel?