Phoebe Philo - Designer

[Drusilla_]

Finally!!! Crazy to think how many of the buzzy new-ish labels of NY (Khaite, MNZ, and they're not new or that buzzy but Proenza) owe so much to her influence, five years after she left her last gig. Even if she continues along the same lines for her own label, I won't be mad.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Finally!!! Crazy to think how many of the buzzy new-ish labels of NY (Khaite, MNZ, and they're not new or that buzzy but Proenza) owe so much to her influence, five years after she left her last gig. Even if she continues along the same lines for her own label, I won't be mad.

You got that turned around a little bit. It was always Maryam's look before Marie Chaix clocked it and exported it over to Phoebe's studio.

 

[Drusilla_]

^that's fair, I hadn't realised how close the founding of MNZ was to Phoebe's appointment in 2008. The latter still took it in a different direction by 2010 though, MNZ circa 2010-11 didn't really look anything like Phoebe's stuff. I remember everyone at fashion week seemed to be pretending to have been metal fans for ages and wearing jackets full of studs c. 2009 and then that beige coat collection just swept it all away.

 

[LadyJunon]

You got that turned around a little bit. It was always Maryam's look before Marie Chaix clocked it and exported it over to Phoebe's studio.

^that's fair, I hadn't realised how close the founding of MNZ was to Phoebe's appointment in 2008. The latter still took it in a different direction by 2010 though, MNZ circa 2010-11 didn't really look anything like Phoebe's stuff. I remember everyone at fashion week seemed to be pretending to have been metal fans for ages and wearing jackets full of studs c. 2009 and then that beige coat collection just swept it all away.

Maryam Nassir Zadeh did launch back in 2008, but as a boutique that only stocked other NYC-based designers. She launched her eponymous label between 2012 and 2014, depending on the source.

 

[Drusilla_]

Maryam Nassir Zadeh did launch back in 2008, but as a boutique that only stocked other NYC-based designers. She launched her eponymous label between 2012 and 2014, depending on the source.

My mistake, sorry! I'd seen some images from the store around 2010-11 on refinery29 and assumed that was for the brand.

 

[LadyJunon]

My mistake, sorry! I'd seen some images from the store around 2010-11 on refinery29 and assumed that was for the brand.

Don't worry. I just wanted to let you know, because it's a bit confusing and ambiguous.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Maryam Nassir Zadeh did launch back in 2008, but as a boutique that only stocked other NYC-based designers. She launched her eponymous label between 2012 and 2014, depending on the source.

I'm talking about Maryam's personal aesthetic and look. Maryam had fully articulated that aesthetic in her store and in her own personal style when Phoebe was still working with Camilla.

 

[LadyJunon]

I'm talking about Maryam's personal aesthetic and look. Maryam had fully articulated that aesthetic in her store and in her own personal style when Phoebe was still working with Camilla.

Ok, that makes sense.

 

[yslforever]

Did your little birds mention menswear ? I am actually praying for it.

 

[Phuel]

Good for her branding and distribution strategy.

It’s refreshing in these overhyped days for a designer for eschewing the tiresome— and oftentimes ridiculous production costs, of what ultimately amounts to a snoozefest horse-and-pony pageantry of a show, and/or any instore hype, and just getting her product DTC. Making it about the product first and moremost is so admirable these days when so many lessers are getting away with these overly, ridiculously expensive, bloated presentations and campaigns with equally overhyped casts, just to sell the most basic of outlet merch. That she doesn’t insult her customer with idiosyncratic big production is one of the most respectable act a designer can do these days (…and I’ve never cared for her Celine.)

 

[LadyJunon]

Good for her branding and distribution strategy.

It’s refreshing in these overhyped days for a designer for eschewing the tiresome— and oftentimes ridiculous production costs, of what ultimately amounts to a snoozefest horse-and-pony pageantry of a show, and/or any instore hype, and just getting her product DTC. Making it about the product first and moremost is so admirable these days when so many lessers are getting away with these overly, ridiculously expensive, bloated presentations and campaigns with equally overhyped casts, just to sell the most basic of outlet merch. That she doesn’t insult her customer with idiosyncratic big production is one of the most respectable act a designer can do these days (…and I’ve never cared for her Celine.)

I'll miss the shows but yes, I agree that this is the best way for Philo to proceed with her business. She's never been that sort of designer anyway.

 

[PierreGotha]

I doubt she'll launch an immediate menswear line. She'll stick to what she does best and gauge the market if its needed.

As for the brand, I think this will be blew up on Instagram as the new "it brand". Depending on the collection, It will have a similar success-trajectory comparable to Frankieshop, while being more sophisticated and pioneering.

 

[Lola701]

I think it’s more coherent for her to do bigger size to appeal to the menswear market than having a full menswear line.
Her Celine, apart from dresses was easily wearable for any man who wanted to as part of their everyday life.

 

[fenty]

If I see a 42/43 Fab Boot, Phoebe can take all my paychecks

 

[tricotineacetat]

Not sure this is even a motivation of hers', but for her new collection to really address a menswear customer, she'd in fact have to propose 'menswear for women' rather than 'womenswear adapted to fit a men's body' - After all, her point of view is less disruptive and more on the pragmatic and mature side than Alessandro Michele or younger generation designers such as Harris Reed or Ludovic de Saint Sernin who are really pushing the idea of non-binary, queer fashion.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

I think it’s more coherent for her to do bigger size to appeal to the menswear market than having a full menswear line.
Her Celine, apart from dresses was easily wearable for any man who wanted to as part of their everyday life.

I'm not so sure about that.

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Did your little birds mention menswear ? I am actually praying for it.

Nope.

Some how I don't see Philo being interested in doing men's. But if she were it would make sense to wait a bit. I imagine they'll need time to make adjustments to things before they even think about diving into a new market.

 

[Lola701]

I'm not so sure about that.

Lol the any man can be misleading isn’t it?
I mean most of the men I saw but Celine by Philo were Asian. But I won’t say that Celine by Philo pants, shirts and jackets only looked good in Asian men…As long as it suited your aesthetic and your body, it was possible…

 

[Deleted member 7575]

Not sure this is even a motivation of hers', but for her new collection to really address a menswear customer, she'd in fact have to propose 'menswear for women' rather than 'womenswear adapted to fit a men's body' - After all, her point of view is less disruptive and more on the pragmatic and mature side than Alessandro Michele or younger generation designers such as Harris Reed or Ludovic de Saint Sernin who are really pushing the idea of non-binary, queer fashion.

You bring up Harris Reed as if he were a real designer.

 

[tricotineacetat]

You bring up Harris Reed as if he were a real designer.

Certainly not my intention! I was merely naming him and Ludovic de Saint Sernin (who I consider as little a designer as Harris Reed) as the most visible voices in fashion right now who are pushing this particular imagery. It feels rather unlikely to me that Phoebe Philo would have the ambition to propose a fashion that is outspokenly gender fluid when nothing in her past work ever hinted at that.