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Phoebe Philo - Designer

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PUCKNEWS​

Phoebe’s First Private Sale​

Today is the first day of many early-access sales. Magasin has an incredible roundup with exclusive subscriber access to certain events, if you’re interested and happen to be shopping. (A friend and I were discussing yesterday how we love discounts, but are turned off by sales. It cheapens things somehow.) Anyway, even for the most in-demand brands, it’s near impossible not to participate—except for those who would rather burn merchandise than mark anything down.
Phoebe Philo, for example, has attempted to avoid any discounts in the U.S., save for a few extremely secretive sales at Bergdorf Goodman (you had to ask to access the product). This morning, however, several readers sent me notes regarding the private sale that just launched on PhoebePhilo.com, which mostly features first-season items, including plenty of trousers (I wear the Boyish silhouette), most of which are already sold out. The private sale also features quite a few pieces under $1,000, including the cape turtleneck that has inspired so many others.
Prices are still higher than at the private sales in Europe—so shop those if you’re heading there this season—but if not, it’s an opportunity to get a piece of Phoebe. Actually, the only sales I’ve ever loved were the post-Christmas events when Philo was still at Céline.

The fact of the matter is, practically all brands need to do this. They just need to make sure they do it right.
 
I bought a light pink shirt with some kind of oversized sleeves and the red chunky cashmere sweater. I was tempted by the pants with the Zip in the back but I’m going to see her space in GL/DSM next week so no need to go crazy now.
However, there weren’t a awful lot of item. A few coats, some silly accessories (I wonder if they will sell those) some good pants and the great evening dresses.

It’s cleverly done. No bags and the discount are not extreme in a way that it would change the perception of the brand.

I would like to think that the people who bought it are familiar by now with the cut of her clothes and things like that.

Most brands do sales in a clever way. I guess Lauren is referring to The Row regarding a « fail » in terms of image. But we have to remember that those are fashion brands.

I think the The Row situation isn’t that deep. They will figure it out later.

Hermes for years had very open sample sales. Now it’s still relatively easy to access even though you have to receive an invitation. The perception around the brand hasn’t changed.

And the thing about The Row is that it’s a lot of basics de luxe. Phoebe Philo is still in some ways pure fashion. So what is available are things people won’t find in future seasons. I didn’t even remember paying attention to the two pieces I end up buying.
 
I know months ago there were talks on the disappointment regarding the display of her retail spaces but I have to say after going to Galeries Lafayette that it’s quite efficient. It works, you can concentrate on the goods.

But I have to say something about the clothes. So far since the inception of the brand, I haven’t bought any pants yet and this was my first IRL experience as I have bought online mostly.

The zip pants are silly. I bought one pair of one pair because it’s a cool detail nevertheless but essentially, nobody is every going to wear them opened unless you are doing some kind of editorial project but it’s silly. And there are quite a lot of pants with that detail so I suppose it’s going to be a signature for them.
 
Based on Vogue latest industry survey in two years, Phoebe Philo label has surged to the very top of the “most coveted” list, sharing the number one spot with Miu Miu and The Row

The magnitude of her influence, the visual language she defined at Chloé and CELINE is still relevant. The clarity of taste, the restraint, the unmistakable hand. It resonates because people genuinely want to wear these clothes.

Her return in late 2023 saw instant sellouts. The momentum hasn’t slowed. Search interest, sell-through, global relevance, cultural pull — all of it continues to climb.
1765491848213.jpeg
 
^ does also help that she’s done multiple limited drops, so searches for her are going to be much higher.

Not saying she still doesn’t have the pull of her Céline years, but she’s been smart to maintain traction. Mind you, those polls aren’t always the most reliable. A little bit of paid promotion goes a long way (which again, smart if you can).
 
Her aesthetic is still dominating the zeitgeist so it feels… « normal ».

About Linda. She doesn’t work with a stylist so she wears her own clothes styled in a way that makes her comfortable and not a Redcarpet approved situation. The issue is more the blazer but she looks good nevertheless.
 
Creative said:
I hate private sales and sales. Would never do it if I was a CEO.
Click to expand...
Never?

Even Hermes and Chanel have sales. The Hermes sale used to even be quite publicly talked about and never hurt the cache of the brand. But that some assuming that is your reason.

Just curious about your opinion on not having markdowns
 
reese06 said:
Never?

Even Hermes and Chanel have sales. The Hermes sale used to even be quite publicly talked about and never hurt the cache of the brand. But that some assuming that is your reason.

Just curious about your opinion on not having markdowns
Click to expand...
I know! Almost every brand does. There have been some times in which some brands didn’t do it (Gucci a few seasons when AM was there) and Dior for a couple of seasons when MGC was there around 2019. Basically when they were super successful and Sell Through was super high. It was also a way to tell the world that they were doing great.

For many years though, brands have been doing private sales and sales, and almost all the RTW is included in the offer. Clients started to know it and they stopped buying full price. Also, they saw that after a few months something that was 4000€ was suddenly 30% and many times 40% off. It is really unfair and tbh, makes no sense from a client perspective when you are talking about such short period of time.

Brands like Armani that have a very low sell through arrive to the PS season with less than 50% ST, which means they have a lot of stock available. That means clients can buy practically anything with a 40% discount if they wait a few months.

Also we have to consider that the amount of money for the buyings of the collections since the 00s has been increasing, because the business in general have been increasing as well, so from a financial perspective it’s very hard to decrease the buying because for top management it’s like a sign of “defeat”. So that’s why they do sales and outlets, because they don’t want to cut the buying, as they have hopes of being more successful next season or in a few years.

But since they keep not selling a lot of RTW and clients more and more know that the markdowns are not just for top clients and that almost anyone has access to them, they keep waiting for the sales, and now there are even elite clients (the highest in the pyramid) that just wait, so it’s killing the business.

Also they need to comp vs LY, and once you do PS it’s very hard to comp because that’s a big extra money, so they need to keep doing them or they won’t comp, and even more these days in which the luxury climate is not perfect, they don’t want to risk anything.

So, if I was a CEO I would definitely apply a no discount / no outlet policy.
 
Creative said:
I hate private sales and sales. Would never do it if I was a CEO.
Click to expand...
I am for private sample sales though. Beyond the outside world perception of the brand, for the employees it’s good.
While employees cannot afford to buy the goods at full retail prices sometimes, it’s good that they can afford them through sales.

I couldn’t have afford most of what are now cherished pieces if I wasn’t an employee who had access to those sales.

But in Phoebe’s case, tbh some designs were so particular that it kinda made sense that they didn’t sell out. So her sales won’t hurt the brand.

I haven’t an issue about sales but brands I think should be more strategic around their pricing instead of trying to copy each other everytime.

When it comes to designer’s stuff, my spectrum goes from N21 to Vuitton/Phoebe Philo and occasionally Chanel.

Tbh I feel like brands like N21 or Dries could function without doing sales.

It’s just a race over consumerism/accumulation in reality. Me buying those pieces at the PP private sale was pure consumerism considering that for a few months already, I planned to buy my leather jacket, which is a considerate splurge.

But yeah, outlets aren’t good for brands (even if they are for clients). I mean look at Gucci. For the past 5 years, the stuff literally goes from the stores directly to the outlets.

And me personally after the Burberry episode, I promised myself to never buy anything from that brand at full retail price…
 
Lola701 said:
I am for private sample sales though. Beyond the outside world perception of the brand, for the employees it’s good.
While employees cannot afford to buy the goods at full retail prices sometimes, it’s good that they can afford them through sales.

I couldn’t have afford most of what are now cherished pieces if I wasn’t an employee who had access to those sales.

But in Phoebe’s case, tbh some designs were so particular that it kinda made sense that they didn’t sell out. So her sales won’t hurt the brand.

I haven’t an issue about sales but brands I think should be more strategic around their pricing instead of trying to copy each other everytime.

When it comes to designer’s stuff, my spectrum goes from N21 to Vuitton/Phoebe Philo and occasionally Chanel.

Tbh I feel like brands like N21 or Dries could function without doing sales.

It’s just a race over consumerism/accumulation in reality. Me buying those pieces at the PP private sale was pure consumerism considering that for a few months already, I planned to buy my leather jacket, which is a considerate splurge.

But yeah, outlets aren’t good for brands (even if they are for clients). I mean look at Gucci. For the past 5 years, the stuff literally goes from the stores directly to the outlets.

And me personally after the Burberry episode, I promised myself to never buy anything from that brand at full retail price…
Click to expand...
Yeah, I am all for staff sales. There was a time when you could have all the Chanel bags for 500€ and for the shoes they would delete the last 0. It was great. My friends would be dressed head to toe Chanel for less money than a Sandro outfit :lol:

Now those sales are more and more expensive, but for Xmas I still got a few shoes for gifting for around 50€, so sometimes they still do it.

The problem was that some people made a business out of it and some groups, like Kering, are more… rigid let’s say.

But I meant for clients, staff should be treated like gold and I’m totally ok with increasing allowances and staff sales 😊
 
I was a customer of Phoebe's Céline but stopped buying entirely when she left. In recent months, the Céline sales team (people i don't know) in my city has been contacting me for an appointment to show me Michael Rider's new collection. I suppose they are trying to lure back the old Phoebe clientele - is this happening in all the other markets too?
 
Creative said:
I know! Almost every brand does. There have been some times in which some brands didn’t do it (Gucci a few seasons when AM was there) and Dior for a couple of seasons when MGC was there around 2019. Basically when they were super successful and Sell Through was super high. It was also a way to tell the world that they were doing great.

For many years though, brands have been doing private sales and sales, and almost all the RTW is included in the offer. Clients started to know it and they stopped buying full price. Also, they saw that after a few months something that was 4000€ was suddenly 30% and many times 40% off. It is really unfair and tbh, makes no sense from a client perspective when you are talking about such short period of time.

Brands like Armani that have a very low sell through arrive to the PS season with less than 50% ST, which means they have a lot of stock available. That means clients can buy practically anything with a 40% discount if they wait a few months.

Also we have to consider that the amount of money for the buyings of the collections since the 00s has been increasing, because the business in general have been increasing as well, so from a financial perspective it’s very hard to decrease the buying because for top management it’s like a sign of “defeat”. So that’s why they do sales and outlets, because they don’t want to cut the buying, as they have hopes of being more successful next season or in a few years.

But since they keep not selling a lot of RTW and clients more and more know that the markdowns are not just for top clients and that almost anyone has access to them, they keep waiting for the sales, and now there are even elite clients (the highest in the pyramid) that just wait, so it’s killing the business.

Also they need to comp vs LY, and once you do PS it’s very hard to comp because that’s a big extra money, so they need to keep doing them or they won’t comp, and even more these days in which the luxury climate is not perfect, they don’t want to risk anything.

So, if I was a CEO I would definitely apply a no discount / no outlet policy.
Click to expand...
Question, how does one get notified of a private sale for a brand like, say, Dior?
 
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