Pieter Mulier - Designer, Creative Director of Alaïa

[PDFSD]

I don’t know if Helmut Lang was all of that.
For me Gaultier was much more of a technician and innovator in menswear than Helmut Lang.

I just think that Helmut was a man of his time. He invented a concept that became a blueprint of modernity. In that sense his approach to fashion was innovative.

While youth is very important for Raf, I don’t have the feeling that it’s that important for Pieter…I mean we will see.

Helmut Lang is the ultimate proof that you can be very artsy, on the verge of pretentious and be accessible, sexy and desirable. And it’s in part because the clothes were styled after all on the same models that walked Gucci or Versace.

It’s a balance that all the designers influenced my Helmut try to reach non?

Gaultier was much more of a technician and innovator in menswear than Helmut Lang.
Helmut Lang Like Margiela like Gaultier before they all where technical and innovative it's just different tools and styles.
to know each brand fully is to know they are similar in ground principal but so differently executed.

why i don't find Helmut Lang on the verge of pretentious is because he always was searching for solutions to do modern meaningful clothes to live with but also was not shy to give expermention space as a way to find new solutions. since day one it was about search not ego of self expression .

its only now after the fact people realize he made a blue print back than it just felt right for the new times we were heading to because it was grounded in realism .

when he speaks of his work then and even his art now its always very honest and practical response to his surrounding and search.

Helmut Lang is not far removed from a Coco Chanel in her days and that's not just because both used the triolan jackets heritage and technical fabric seen as poor to make a new high fashion uniform, its rooted in realism but with guts (the search) and it's not as bright and happy in your face like a Gualtier but nonetheless equally powerful or even more timeless.

 

[Lola701]

Gaultier was much more of a technician and innovator in menswear than Helmut Lang.
Helmut Lang Like Margiela like Gaultier before they all where technical and innovative it's just different tools and styles.
to know each brand fully is to know they are similar in ground principal but so differently executed.

why i don't find Helmut Lang on the verge of pretentious is because he always was searching for solutions to do modern meaningful clothes to live with but also was not shy to give expermention space as a way to find new solutions. since day one it was about search not ego of self expression .

I don’t find him pretentious either but I think it could have been easily perceived that way. To name his collections « séances de travail », to have a dedicated sound stylist, to have a very 360 POV, to even have a dedicated way of showing collections…All of that was very new at the time. To be this new could be seen as pretentious.

I won’t ever try to pretend that people coming with new way of doing things are welcomed with open arms…Even more in Paris in the early 90’s (because he really achieved his vision after a few seasons).

 

[PDFSD]

she is back

Susanna Nicoletti

Pieter Mulier at Versace as anticipated on Linkedin one week ago and explained last Sunday December 14th on SUNDeLuxe risks to become a nail in the coffin for the whole Prada Group.

The investment for the acquisition is very heavy for the Italian group, the relaunch of an exhausted brand with the inexplicable chapter of Dario Vitale very uncertain, the financial and economical landscape for fashion very fragile with markets saturated of stocks and clients fed up with all the style and brands tarantella.

Lorenzo Bertelli next executive chairman of the Medusa brand and Mulier who so far only worked as CD at niche, tiny Alaia with relative business growth and not used to be at the helm of a super brand, who prefers to live in Antwerp as per his interview to Interview magazine and adopt a rebellious approach against the system as he likes to say while launching ballerinas and black bags are a match with lots to be proved and both at their first relevant experience.
Mulier is a fashion darling but his work with Simons at big brands like Dior and Calvin Klein after a first moment of hype never boosted revenues.
Versace and Prada Group need revenues. Very strong revenues.

Miuccia is 76 years old and Patrizio Bertelli 79…
In not a long time Lorenzo will have to take care of several key brands in a time when businesses are in crisis or slowing down.

A strong generation of top executives is missing in the group, with a few exceptions. Prada still has to replace its CEO, he left six months ago.

Prada Group in the past never succeeded when they acquired strong brands like Helmut Lang, Jil Sander and Fendi because they are great in being Prada and if Fendi was not acquired by LVMH Prada Group would have been in serious trouble.

Prada itself is recently slowing down in revenues.

Why taking this burden on their shoulders?

 

[PDFSD]

I don’t find him pretentious either but I think it could have been easily perceived that way. To name his collections « séances de travail », to have a dedicated sound stylist, to have a very 360 POV, to even have a dedicated way of showing collections…All of that was very new at the time. To be this new could be seen as pretentious.

I won’t ever try to pretend that people coming with new way of doing things are welcomed with open arms…Even more in Paris in the early 90’s (because he really achieved his vision after a few seasons).

its very european studious ...not performing like we have allot now with the JWA peter RAF BLazy types

its was about search and studying whereas now we have performance art visual impact first and some weak meaning after

also that era of european art and fashion schools was about discovery and search not the end results.

Helmut was about evolution not so much reaching a look /final vision.

Thats why i think also he was fine to stop searching in fashion and not go back to fashion , because he found he can dare to do the search in art form.

being a artist in certain european countries is regarded as something serious as in studying life etc we lost the meaning as art and artist became pop stars but thats a subject for another day

 

[fenty]

At least the campaigns will be fab, I don't know about the clothes but when was the last time Versace had a decent collection?

 

[Squizree]

At least the campaigns will be fab, I don't know about the clothes but when was the last time Versace had a decent collection?

Literally 2012

 

[fenty]

Whew...

 

[rivegaucheface]

only thing i like to add is i agree with lola on the new sexy guy ...and why Prada wanted him the next best thing close to raf that is doing thinking fashion but more sexy ....the sex even if its cold and curated like a museum exhibition on sex is what is mainstream modern today also we should not forget the ads feature naked girls etc its not only a high slit in a pants or skirt that make a brand image sexy.

legs open , hotel rooms , naked with just heels , in bed, lots of legs......not far from Vaccarello helmut newton themu on repeat.
this just has more of phoebe woman empowerment gloss without the woman empowerment part just the gloss.

you can see below the new versace more clear and understandable just ad some good clean coolish shapes bags and shoes you have a healthy brand restart.

View attachment 1441675View attachment 1441676View attachment 1441677View attachment 1441678View attachment 1441679View attachment 1441680View attachment 1441681View attachment 1441682View attachment 1441683

I guess that's the problem for me then? It's like in modern movies how they say everyone is sexy but no one is seducing.

Yes, the images are all of naked women, legs open, the camera in a position of power. But they feel bloodless to me. Like the camera was clicked by remote by someone in a different room. It doesn't even feel kinky or voyeuristic. It's like a study of the power of a hot woman over her lover *if* her lover were in the room, but they're not. I don't know how successful that intellectualization of feminine power will be at Versace. Versace never feels like they think too much.

I'm reminded of Tom Ford's show where it felt like attraction removed from the subject was a lot more successful.

 

[yslforever]

Literally 2012

And September 25.

 

[Avonlea]

And September 25.

Dario's collection became a guilty pleasure of mine.

 

[Lola701]

At least the campaigns will be fab, I don't know about the clothes but when was the last time Versace had a decent collection?

I liked the Versus/Versace collection from SS2025 and prior to that, the FW2018. I loved that collection. Tacky but good.