Racial Diversity In Modeling

[birgitta]

I don't really understand how speaking out about stereotypes would hinder non-European models from getting work. keeping quiet while models are only being used in caricature-like perpetuations of stereotypes is part of the reason non-Euro descent models are still being sidelined. Imagine if Caucasian models were only used in trailer park or "Old Country" themed works. Yes, people exist who have those things as part of their culture, but any one with common sense knows that models of Euro descent are able to portray beauty and variants beyond those ideas. The same goes for models of African/Asian/First Nations/etc. descent. Instead of only being hired in tribal/hip-hop/geisha themes, all models should be able to show their talent in portraying other ideals. There are so many talented models who aren't even given a chance or are waved away at the first site of their brown skin, and only thought of when some arbiter of fashion decides they're "inspired" by some appropriated culture that instead of paying homage to, they exaggerate to the point of derision.

 

[Bahiyya]

i understand where you guys are coming from. Dsquared was wrong for its um, "vision". But if people keep complaining about stereotypes then black models will never be used. designers won't want to be bothered. but the more they use black models, and the more they get to know them, they will realize that their stereotypes are wrong.

I think for now we should focus on the fact that black models are not being used. Once black models are definite staples on the runways, then we can work on stereotypes.

If we don't complain how are they going to know there are stereotypes and make any change? Let's be real here -- how many designers bother to "get to know" models besides possibly big girls like Daria & Gemma? Possibly? Especially in men's modeling which is on a lower profile than women's. How many times have we read of casting directors and photographers wanting to do something a little different -- but getting shot down by the higher ups?

I agree with kahlilq completely. It's constructive criticism in any case rather than a wholesale, "That was wrong, you might as well have used another white skinny Prada dude." It's the 21st century for crying out loud . I am WAY past settling or being grateful for people representing me as a dumb stereotype .

 

[nyc_art_style]

i'm just saying we've been complaining about not seeing black models. now that we have them, we've jumped right back into complaining.

stereotypes are wrong. theres no doubt about that. but isn't this a tiny bit better than no black faces at all?

 

[Northern Star]

^^Could not agree with you more........and I believe there was an element of fun at DSquared2 also. I don't think they take themselves too seriously and this was reflected in their show.
As other's have said the white models were portrayed the same way and personally I was just happy to see a diverse group of models on a runway......which is something we don't see regularly.

 

[Cinthia]

so its better to be represented negatively than not being represented? it's asking too much to be consider as individual humans and not cliches ? so sad.

 

[Bahiyya]

i'm just saying we've been complaining about not seeing black models. now that we have them, we've jumped right back into complaining.

stereotypes are wrong. theres no doubt about that. but isn't this a tiny bit better than no black faces at all?

Actually, I loved Yohji's show which I thought incorporated the idea of "diversity" very well. And as I said I think kahlilq gave constructivecriticism. None of us are belittling Dsquared's efforts, none of us are saying that we don't appreciate the fact that they used black models. But I think it's legitimate to mention in the feedback that they traded in one stereotype for another. It's not like this complaint is new -- I and others in the thread before have long complained that if a black model is used it's solely for the trendy "exotic" factor. Now it's trendy hip hop. I'm sorry, I just think it's too far in the game for me to settle when an industry that prides itself on being "ahead" is stuck in the 90s. (What's next? Another fun runway show with all of them dressed up as basketball players?)

Just because someone has made progress doesn't mean they're exempt from criticism. That's what breeds self-satisfaction and stagnation.

If they had used a ton of Chinese models but put them in rice hats and "fun", "trendy" factory outfits should Asian model fans just raise their hands in the air and be grateful because Cole got put in a rice hat too?

I mean, look at the Vogue Italia issue. Would you be so forgiving if we'd gotten Liya Kebede styled as a video girl wearing a big dollar sign necklace? "But...but...at least it's not Gemma Ward in black face and afro wig!" Nu uh. I see what you're saying but I'm past that attitude. Way past it.

 

[kahlilg]

Honestly the only show I brought up was Dsquared2. I made no mention of Givenchy, Calvin Klien, Versace, etc. which also used new black faces. To me, Givenchy also used hip hop inspiration as well.

men.style.com

but what differs between Givenchy and Dsquared is that I genuinely felt it was more about appreciation. Like I said before, I don't have an issue with the inspiration being hip hop. What I have an issue with is using people who look like me as caricatures for the sake of humor. As people here have said, Dsquared doesn't take themselves seriously. That's fine. But what I don't like is the fact that I can't tell if they aren't taking themselves seriously or hip-hop/black people in general. Besides, in Givenchy the darkest model (a shame there were only 2 I think) was dressed respectably in a suit. In fact I felt the whole show was respectable.

Please note that I never once mentioned Mens Fashion Week, although that can be argued as well, as being racist. I only mentioned Dsquared because I felt they were being very problematic.

 

[masquerade]

So fashionista and coacd hyped that Lanvin was going to have an "all ethnic" casting (whatever that means). I click the thread, and the show is full of white men and one asian model. I guess they are all some sort of ethnicity.

 

[nyc_art_style]

black models are now just getting their foots in the door. yesterday they were not on the runway. today they are, but in stereotypes (some times). all i can say is that minority models have to continue working. and hopefully sometime in the near future we will be equally represented on the runway.

 

[nyc_art_style]

maybe I'm wrong, but Chanel Iman was the only african american model (or minority) that i noticed at Dior. this is definitely nothing i'm happy about. I love Chanel, but where was Jordan or Arlenis or any other minority model. That show was full of no name white models that I've never seen before or could hardly tell apart. it was ridiculous.

the fashion world is full of problems that everyone complains about. just when you think that the fashion world will take changing seriously they don't. that italian vogue was in vain.

 

[angel222]

No Black Models in Paris Fashion Week

http://www.eurweb.com/story/eur44856.cfm

July 1, 2008


As the fashion world turns its attention to Paris this week, the severe lack of black models on the runway has again become a frustration among top designers. "I asked the modeling agency for black girls for our next show but there simply aren't any," said Mario Lefranc, half of the Lefranc-Ferrant designer duo, one of about 40 labels presenting couture collections in Paris for Fashion Week – held through Thursday.
"I'm sick of blonde Russian girls," he told AFP. "Clearly the trend now is all for blue-eyed blondes."
According to AFP, fans attending couture shows for Fashion Week "will be treated yet again to a 'white-out' on the catwalks." With the death of French designer Yves Saint Laurent – one of the few who insisted on models of every hue – it appears the issue will only get worse.
Jean-Paul Gaultier, another designer known for using models of all ages, sizes, and origins, is also frustrated by the lack of available black faces. A rep for the designer told AFP: "It's really very difficult at the moment. There are no black models on the market, the agencies have none."
In the last few years, she added, "there's been an invasion of girls from Eastern Europe, of their type of beauty."
As previously reported, Italian Vogue's July issue will deal with the problem by featuring black models only. According to AFP, presidential candidate Barack Obama's popularity in France and around the world prompted Italian Vogue editor Franca Sozzani to make the statement against discrimination in the forthcoming issue.

 

[writergal28]

http://www.eurweb.com/story/eur44856.cfm

July 1, 2008


As the fashion world turns its attention to Paris this week, the severe lack of black models on the runway has again become a frustration among top designers. "I asked the modeling agency for black girls for our next show but there simply aren't any," said Mario Lefranc, half of the Lefranc-Ferrant designer duo, one of about 40 labels presenting couture collections in Paris for Fashion Week – held through Thursday.
"I'm sick of blonde Russian girls," he told AFP. "Clearly the trend now is all for blue-eyed blondes."
According to AFP, fans attending couture shows for Fashion Week "will be treated yet again to a 'white-out' on the catwalks." With the death of French designer Yves Saint Laurent – one of the few who insisted on models of every hue – it appears the issue will only get worse.
Jean-Paul Gaultier, another designer known for using models of all ages, sizes, and origins, is also frustrated by the lack of available black faces. A rep for the designer told AFP: "It's really very difficult at the moment. There are no black models on the market, the agencies have none."
In the last few years, she added, "there's been an invasion of girls from Eastern Europe, of their type of beauty."
As previously reported, Italian Vogue's July issue will deal with the problem by featuring black models only. According to AFP, presidential candidate Barack Obama's popularity in France and around the world prompted Italian Vogue editor Franca Sozzani to make the statement against discrimination in the forthcoming issue.

Maybe if enough designers demand a wide variety of ethnicities, the agencies will start scouting beyond the blonde, blue-eyed Eastern European girl. People and orgs don't change unless you demand enough.

 

[fashionista-ta]

maybe I'm wrong, but Chanel Iman was the only african american model (or minority) that i noticed at Dior. this is definitely nothing i'm happy about. I love Chanel, but where was Jordan or Arlenis or any other minority model. That show was full of no name white models that I've never seen before or could hardly tell apart. it was ridiculous.

the fashion world is full of problems that everyone complains about. just when you think that the fashion world will take changing seriously they don't. that italian vogue was in vain.

Did Dr King say after the first march, "Well, this isn't working"

I haven't seen the issue, but I believe it's an important step & I really appreciate everything that went into it. If US Vogue did the same thing I'm sure several of us would drop dead of heart attacks I'm sure Anna is just thinking of our health

 

[aldn]

lmao ta-ta!

 

[lesypersound]

black models are now just getting their foots in the door. yesterday they were not on the runway. today they are, but in stereotypes (some times). all i can say is that minority models have to continue working. and hopefully sometime in the near future we will be equally represented on the runway.

but the 70s, 80s, and 90s had more visible/strong/named black models then there are (EDIT) represented today. also to infer that minority models stopped working or trying to get work is a bit much... imo. these strong faced, beautiful women didn't stop something stopped them.

the agencies seem to be the problem atm--really? no black models in paris?

 

[Bahiyya]

Honestly the only show I brought up was Dsquared2. I made no mention of Givenchy, Calvin Klien, Versace, etc. which also used new black faces. To me, Givenchy also used hip hop inspiration as well.

men.style.com

but what differs between Givenchy and Dsquared is that I genuinely felt it was more about appreciation. Like I said before, I don't have an issue with the inspiration being hip hop. What I have an issue with is using people who look like me as caricatures for the sake of humor. As people here have said, Dsquared doesn't take themselves seriously. That's fine. But what I don't like is the fact that I can't tell if they aren't taking themselves seriously or hip-hop/black people in general. Besides, in Givenchy the darkest model (a shame there were only 2 I think) was dressed respectably in a suit. In fact I felt the whole show was respectable.

Please note that I never once mentioned Mens Fashion Week, although that can be argued as well, as being racist. I only mentioned Dsquared because I felt they were being very problematic.

Yes, the problem with D squared was that it was very gimmicky. Yohji didn't use a lot of black models either but I felt there was true appreciation and something that one could at least begin to build on.

but yes, the HC shows are as white as ever . I almost hope that it is because there just aren't a lot of black girls on the market for designers to really have a true selection to work with, rather than being sent the same Chanel + Jourdan duo. Maybe...maybe things will look up Spring 2009...? (Can't believe that Dior didn't book more black models though -- Sessilee Lopez would have totally fit that crazy clothes and make-up.)

 

[kahlilg]

Yes, the problem with D squared was that it was very gimmicky. Yohji didn't use a lot of black models either but I felt there was true appreciation and something that one could at least begin to build on.

but yes, the HC shows are as white as ever . I almost hope that it is because there just aren't a lot of black girls on the market for designers to really have a true selection to work with, rather than being sent the same Chanel + Jourdan duo. Maybe...maybe things will look up Spring 2009...? (Can't believe that Dior didn't book more black models though -- Sessilee Lopez would have totally fit that crazy clothes and make-up.)

i doubt it honestly. i think everyone is trying to blame someone else. designers say there is no section. agency's say designers don't want black models. it's just a cycle that isn't going anywhere. both sides should try and step to the plate instead of being Dependant on the other.

 

[nyc_art_style]

but the 70s, 80s, and 90s had more visible/strong/named black models then there are (EDIT) represented today. also to infer that minority models stopped working or trying to get work is a bit much... imo. these strong faced, beautiful women didn't stop something stopped them.

the agencies seem to be the problem atm--really? no black models in paris?

i was not inferring that. i meant that designers and casting directors had stopped hiring them.

i'm sorry that i neglected to mention the 70's 80's and 90's. my detailed knowledge of fashion doesn't go past the 2000's.

 

[nyc_art_style]

i don't believe the excuse that there are no black girls. some designers had only one black girl or no black girls at all in their shows. they could of had three or two at least. at valentino there wasn't a single black girl. she used jordan before, why not use her again.

 

[Bahiyya]

^^ I blinked twice when I clicked through the collection for that very same reason. No Asians either! Not even Bruna or Tominaga was cast. (I didn't think the couture line was as good as anything Valentino did anyway. Bleh .)