did anyone see this piece in the NYtimes last weekend? i love the graph. (nytimes.com)
Haute Frugality
It was just another November morning after yet another triple-digit drop in the Dow; the news of the day concerned the government’s latest efforts to revive our consumer-driven economy. And at the H & M in Herald Square in Manhattan, a line of shoppers stretched down the block. When the store opened, they moved in quickly and did not merely browse; they bought, evidently with gusto. “Fabulous boys who were obviously late for something panicked as they tried on drop-crotch pants in the middle of the aisle,” a blogger recounted on
Racked.com. “We saw a shirtless dude and sweating women.” But even this minor retail scrum was, in a way, of a piece with the zeitgeist: it was about snapping up a high-end apparel brand at apparently bargain prices. The underlying tactic has become a familiar one: a big retail chain pairs up with a fashion-world star on a lower-priced line for that chain only.
Target has sold
Isaac Mizrahi garments since 2003 and has offered limited-run collaborations with
Proenza Schouler, among others. H & M — a chain started in Sweden that sells trendy clothes at very low prices in 33 countries — has previously sold lines from
Karl Lagerfeld and
Roberto Cavalli. What drew a conspicuous number of consumers to some H & M locations last month was a heavily promoted team-up with Comme des Garçons, a longtime favorite label for a certain segment of stylemongers. As always, the idea is to lend a bit of couture cachet to the retailer and to allow the exclusive designer to dabble in the mass market. The Comme des Garçons designer
Rei Kawakubo, long admired in the fashion world for the borderline avant-garde collections she sends down the runways, has said that her decision to work with H & M was partly an effort “to appeal to people who may not yet understand Comme des Garçons.” An H & M news release described her work as “surprisingly wearable.”
That said, setting up shop at the intersection of aspiration and accessibility does feel a little different now from the way it did a year or two ago. The underlying trend-logic of this strategy previously turned on the belief in a societal surge toward the finer things — a nation “trading up” into new “masstige” lifestyles. Lately, enthusiasm for that theory has retreated even faster than our credit-card limits.
And yet long lines and spirited buying greeted the Comme des Garçons for H & M collection not just in Herald Square but also in San Francisco, Los Angeles, Toronto, Chicago and London. (It went on sale the same day in all those markets, after rolling out at a new H & M location in the Harajuku shopping district in Tokyo; Kawakubo is Japanese, and her company is based in Tokyo.) Many reports indicated almost-instant sellouts of certain items, like a $60 polka-dot scarf, a $70 wallet and a $350 dress. That’s quite pricey for H & M but a fraction of what, for instance, a regular Comme des Garçons dress would cost. The Racked.com blogger reported having “snagged cardigans and shirts as Christmas presents for fellow Comme lovers” but having no chance at the most “coveted items.”
But it turns out there was a bit of a twist to this particular exercise in making an exclusive brand available in a more inclusive retail setting.
Although there are 168 H & M locations in the United States, Comme des Garçons products are available at just eight of them, all in big cities. “We’ve looked at where the market is” for high-low collaborations like this one, an H & M spokeswoman explains. That market, then, would appear to be consumers who already “understand” Comme des Garçons well enough to stand in line to gorge on its products at unusually low prices. In other words, it is not so much about the masses grasping for prestige as it is about a rarefied consumer group grasping for deals — or, perhaps, for a form of splurging that seems more socially acceptable while fellow citizens are losing jobs and nest eggs. If new trend-logic invariably demands a fresh coinage, consider frugalitism. (Or not.)
Possibly the mild frenzy for this particular collaboration was both an echo of consumer exuberance that came to seem normal in recent years and a glimpse of where shopping culture is headed. Standing in line for the Comme des Garçons for H & M collection may not be the same as standing in line for the new
iPhone or Blackberry — but it’s also not completely different. Maybe shopping culture hasn’t quite expired, as some suggest; it has just been marked down a bit.