I am normally not much taken by very referenced collections, but the way Olivier works them out, it´s never too much into a theme, where others would get instantly lost in storytelling.
Once again, a beautiful show and a strong collection in the showroom - I liked how Olivier managed to grow something easy and effortless in the codes he established for Rochas - the new felted knit coats - some of them covered in precious Chantilly, worked perfectly well in the mix with the evening gowns, on top of a nice skirt or just by themselves for somebody that had possibly never heard about either Olivier Theyskens or Rochas (still quite a good amount, I guess). I liked the pantsuits once again, as a counterpart to those that were strictly cut by others - Olivier´s flew so nicely on the body, while still shaping a wonderful, slender arm and small shoulders. The daywear looks with those knitted vests on top of shorts and a shirt, worn with opaque tights and boots, would be cute on a younger woman. The dresses with the small birds embroidered birds holding the long, gauzy skarves were such a beautiful touch to the gowns - very romantic, but not cute-sy at all, thanks to the restrained colour palette.
The only problem that I see with Rochas is that most of these clothes are still bloody expensive on the salesfloor - even though these clothes are devinely-crafted (I´d say the BEST of the BEST fabrics that money can buy, my word for this) and increasingly approachable, only few will be able to afford the hefty 1200€ pricetag of a breathtaking pair of smoky black washed silk organza trousers with their soft black underlayers.