It isn't my style, but I can appreciate how it *will* sell, especially to the Dries van Noten/Kenzo/Marni crowd. The tailoring isn't too shabby either, and I wouldn't mind some pieces from here as affordable classics. Seriously, this hits the sweet spot in terms of the recessionary climate and the new sobriety. The over indulgence in excesses in fashion irritates me now, particularly the over decorated and embellished clothes. Those look very dated to me. Of course this isn't "avant-garde", but neither is Theyskens for a long time. I waded through my wardrobe recently and found a grey wool Nina Ricci zipped jacket from Theyskens first collection - *that* was fantastic, cut like a volumetric Rick Owens meets Rochas, and still right for today - but I remembered Theyskens was panned by the critics for it and he showed collections of impossible to wear "flou" afterwards.