Runway Makeup F/W 12.13

[oh me]

Thank you very much, fm2tm! Derek Lam make up looks indeed very nice and I also like the Jason Wu one, that eyeshadow looks similar to "Club", but I think it's a different one.

Would love to get some information about the hair & make up from the J. Mendel show, it looks really nice.

stylebistro

 

[flyme2themoon]

^ You're welcome!

Details on the makeup + hair at J. Mendel:
Makeup: Charlotte Tillbury
Hair: Orlando Pita

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Runway the "Real" Way: J. Mendel Fall 2012
By Leah Melby

1. Prep Team

Before models even got to the makeup chair, their faces were prepped with Dr. Jart Water Fuse BB cream. The three-in-one lotion triples as a moisturizer, serum, and sunscreen and was used to even out skin tone. "I like to call it AC for your face. It instantly cools and soothes," said makeup artist Joy Fennell. Even in the winter months, the potion's good for raw, wind-whipped skin, and she particularly likes recommending it to clients who suffer from rosacea. The biggest stamp of approval? The models raved about it before leaving her chair.

2. Born This Way

"We wanted the girls to feel effortlessly cool—chic, but grunge. In my mind, I was thinking Charlize Theron, Kate Moss," said makeup artist Charlotte Tillbury for Maybelline. "It's like nature naturally blessed you with the perfect flush on the cheeks and lips, nice brows, and thick lashes." To fake flawlessness, Tillbury used Dream Nude Airfoam foundation and highlighter on the cheekbones, nose, and cupid's bow. For cheeks, she mixed two shades of the brand's Dream Bouncy blush: Coffee Cake as the base on the full cheekbone and Rose Petal on the apple "to give a bounce of color."

3. Easy on the Eyes

Tillbury stuck with neutral colors for the eyes, mixing Color Tattoo shadow in Too Cool with moisturizer for subtle color. Then she used a pencil in brown all around the eye, smudged, and topped with a bit of Beige For Good lipstick for "a wet look" (a hint went under the eye, too). For the lips, she cocktailed two products already on the face: a dab of blush for color and a top of the lipstick to neutralize it slightly.

4. Contempo Casual

"She's the contemporary woman of today," hairstylist Orlando Pita said, working on behalf of Phyto and T3. "The hair's a little waved and works both for day and evening." Hair was blown out with Phyto Professional Intense Volume Mousse and curled with T3's SinglePass Twirl iron. The loose ringlets turned into sexy, bouncy waves courtesy of Pita and team. They brushed them out and did some back-brushing for extra fluff.

5. Madame, Please

The Haven Spa for Essie team was backstage giving the models the final lacquered touch: two coats of light pink Mademoiselle plus a fast-drying topcoat. "It's very, very simple," they explained.

Source: realbeauty.com

 

[flyme2themoon]

Temperley London
Makeup: Val Garland
Hair: Malcolm Edwards

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Beauty at the Temperley show drew inspiration from Julie Christie's iconic look in "Doctor Zhivago."

''It is a young, fresh and natural face with frostbitten, flushed cheeks,'' said makeup artist Val Garland.

Garland evened out the skin with L'Oréal's Nude Magique BB Cream, before layering different shades of pink cream blushers on the cheeks.

She painted lips with a matte, dusty pink shade. Eyes had curled lashes and a fine, almost invisible eyeliner.

Telegraphing a Sixties mood, hairstylist Malcolm Edwards created a "quirky yet classy" chignon with lots of texture and a loose finish using L'Oréal's Texture Tonic and Sparkling Mist.

Source: stylebistro.com, wwd.com

 

[flyme2themoon]

Daks
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Margaret Howell
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Simone Rocha
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Source: stylebistro.com

 

[flyme2themoon]

Aquascutum
Makeup: Lucia Pieroni
Hair: Anthony Turner

Runway
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Backstage

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Sexy With a Side of Dangerous at Aquascutum

Makeup by Lucia Pieroni for MAC Cosmetics
Posted February 18, 2012 4:54 pm by Jamie Roy

The influence for this makeup style came from Japan and was based on a provocative sexy kitten eye to create a "cute look".

Makeup artist Lucia Pieroni used block eyeliner, rather than a flick with BlackTrack liner and False Lash Mascara.

Next, she applied the Fall/Winter Lip Palette using colours French Nougat and Classic Nude on the lips and a touch of Strobe Cream was dabbed onto the skin to highlight.

Lastly, SkinFinish was dusted all over the face for a touch of colour and brows were filled in with powder shadow using an angular brush.

Source: stylebistro.com, vogue.com, fabsugar.co.uk

 

[NeverDrinkAgain]

Thank you very much for one of the most interesting and full of stuff for inspiration thread, flyme2themoon Marc Jacobs, Derek Lam, Thakoon, Aquascutum But the absolute favorite is Jason Wu ... as always. The color of eyeshadows... magnificent!

 

[oh me]

Jason Wu
Makeup: Diane Kendal

Couldn't find the exact product names for this look in the thread, so I'll just post them, because I really liked the eye make up.

Face

* Prep + Prime Moisture Infusion — hydrates and prepares skin
* Matchmaster Foundation SPF 15 — lightly blended over skin to perfect
* Studio Finish SPF 15 Concealer — applied only where needed
* Pro Sculpt Sculpt ing Powder Pro Palett e blended with Cubic Powder Blush — contours the cheek
* Pink Swoon Sheertone Powder Blush — highlights apple of cheek

Eyes

* MAC Pro Marine Ultra and Landscape Green Chromagraphic Pencils — blended together and smudged into the upper lashline and upwards into the crease
* Minted Eye Kohl — blended into the crease for a highlighting effect
* MAC Pro Kelly Green Pigment and Club Eye shadow — blended over the shape to add texture and dimension to the eye
* Blooz Eye Kohl — sketched into the lashline to extend the eye
* Black Crème Liner — delicately applied to deepen lashes and accentuate the lashline
* Haute & Naughty Black Mascara — applied through the upper lashes

Lips

* Lip Conditioner SPF 15 — hydrates and provides the lip with a natural shine

makeupforlife

 

[flyme2themoon]

^ Thank you for posting that extensive product breakdown! (Reminds me that I have a missing Blooz eye kohl that I need to find...)


Burberry Prorsum
Makeup: Wendy Rowe
Hair: Neil Moodie

The Burberry girls looked gorgeous, as usual.

Runway


Backstage


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Backstage Beauty Report | Burberry

Surprisingly, no one backstage at Burberry mentioned anything about this season’s town and country girl needing waterproof makeup for when she heads to the Cotswolds. Maybe it was because she’ll have an umbrella like those carried by the models at the close of the show — post-artificial rainstorm. Both the makeup artist Wendy Rowe and the hairstylist Neil Moodie made references to a city woman escaping to nature, weather not withstanding, as the muse for the look. “It’s the girl who leaves town and doesn’t mind getting her hands dirty,” Rowe said. She created a smoky effect using Burberry’s Sable shadow and a flat brush between lashes. Mulberry and shimmery Midnight Brown were applied lightly around the lid and Gold Trench under the eye. Number 3 concealer was dotted on the inner corner of the eye socket and cheekbones were sculptured with Earthy blush. Lips were primed with foundation and then either Sepia Pink or Mocha Glow tapped on with a finger. “A dark sumptuous eye,” said Rowe of the overall effect, stressing it not be too heavy or perfect, lest it not feel modern. Moodie described hair as a three-day-old blow-dry with “dropped out” curls. He used Bumble and Bumble Prep Spray and Thickening Spray spread from the middle of wet hair, through the ends before diffusing for natural texture. A large-barrel curling iron was then applied randomly throughout the hair and Brilliantine applied to the mussed-up ends.

Source: vogue.com, vogue.it, tmagazine.blogs.nytimes.com

 

[KatherineCouture]

I'm in love with eyeshadow color at Jason Wu

 

[NeverDrinkAgain]

How I love Burberry`s look ... Light smokyeyes focused is great

And for Jason Wu`s funs

 

[flyme2themoon]

^ Thank you for posting the Jason Wu backstage videos NeverDrinkAgain! The fans will indeed appreciate it (myself included!)


McQ Alexander McQueen
Makeup: Diane Kendal
Hair: Guido Palau

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The peculiar hair & makeup makes a fitting, awesome, and haunting combination. I couldn't imagine the hair without the makeup, and vice versa. Bravo Diane and Guido!

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Source: stylebistro.com, vogue.co.uk

 

[flyme2themoon]

Felder Felder
Makeup: Georgina Graham

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Backstage Beauty: Felder Felder Autumn/Winter 2012
By Katie Jones, Feb 17, 2012

Felder Felder's Autumn/Winter Blonde collection was inspired by Ryan McGinley's cave photographs and for Mac's Key Makeup Artist Georgina Graham, it was important to keep the makeup natural, textured and tonal to fit in with the raw and wild, arid winter theme.

Graham used Mac Mineralise Moisturiser all over the face before applying Longwear Concealer Foundation and Prep + Prime Highlighter to hide dark circles under the eyes.

If there's one product that has created a stir backstage so far this season, it's the Sculpting Cream. Graham used two of the six shades by blending them onto the cheeks horizontally for a weathered look. She said, "The amazing thing about these creams is that they can be used over a powder. They're great for building up textures".

As well as the new Sculpting Creams, Mac's second most coveted new product, the Full Trend Lip Palette, added to the beautiful, natural look. Graham used "the perfect nude", French Nougat as a lip balm by pushing it into the lips for a soft sheen.

Source: stylebistro.com, mydaily.co.uk

 

[flyme2themoon]

Moschino Cheap & Chic
Makeup: Val Garland

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Backstage Beauty: Moschino Cheap & Chic Autumn/Winter 2012
By MyDaily Staff, Feb 18, 2012

Mac's Val Garland created a fresh faced look for Moschino Cheap & Chic, which she described as "very plain and simple using fleshy, peachy tones". This meant that foundation and eye makeup was kept light, in-keeping with the natural skin feel, as really, this look was all about the glittery, pink lips in a variety of shades.

The lips were lined with a paler colour first to act as an adhesive and to create a 3D effect. A white powder was dusted over the chin and the lips were covered in either a light pink or fuchsia shade of glitter, which was patted down with a flat brush to smooth any excess from the edges and remove the white powder that caught any glitter from the chin.

Eyes were nude and clean with a cream eye pencil inside the lid and little colour was added to the cheeks (Val told us she was bored of highlighting). Brows were brushed backwards for a bushy look (another key trend for the season) while eyelashes were left bare.

Source: stylebistro.com, mydaily.co.uk

 

[flyme2themoon]

Brooke & Basso

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Source: vogue.it

 

[flyme2themoon]

Michael van der Ham
Makeup: Lauren Parsons
Hair: Luke Hersheson

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Backstage Beauty: Michael Van Der Ham Autumn/Winter 2012
By MyDaily Staff, Feb 20, 2012

Mac's Lauren Parsons described the Michael Van Der Ham look as "Veronica Lake meets 2012".

She created a flawless base by using Mac Mineralise Charged Water Lotion followed by Face + Body and concealer.

Russian Red added a light stain to the lips, with lip balm lightly patted over the top and and cheeks were contoured with Taupe Powder and Lady Blush.

Brows were 50s inspired and brushed upwards with a strong arch for that elegant Elizabeth Taylor look, while Blacktrack Fluid Liner was applied in a feline shape before lashes were curled, with mascara on both the top and bottom. For that extra feline look, a half a set of falsies was added to the top lash line and eye liner was applied on the lower rim while NCIS and NW20 pencils were used on the lower lash line for a natural shadow.

Last but not least, gold leaf was added at the inner corners for an ultra-glam finish.

At Michael van der Ham make-up artist Lauren Parsons adorned a traditional 50s feline eye with gold leaf for a modern take on a classic. She used a a natural hues Paint Pot under the eye to create subtle shadow and MAC Pro Chroma Graphic pencil in either NC15 or NC120 in the lower water line to give subtle, sexy feel to the eyes.

Luke Hersheson prepped hair with Pli before tonging and pinning hair in place to set. Hair was let loose, brushed through with a soft bristle brush and misted with plenty of L'Oreal Professional tecni art fix design. It's slightly more wavy than the classic Lake look which gives it more edge.

Source: vogue.com, mydaily.co.uk, elleuk.com

 

[flyme2themoon]

Fendi
Makeup: Peter Philips
Hair: Sam McKnight

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“Dark, Nordic” Beauty, Backstage At Fendi
February 23, 2012

“Karl likes an eye,” Peter Philips admitted backstage at Fendi this morning—a partiality that Lagerfeld has certainly made clear over the last three seasons at the Italian house. And while following Spring’s gold and silver foil eye shadow was certainly no small task, Philips made quick work of it for Fall, painting lids with a “feathered” white brushstroke of MAC Lipmix. “There are white details in the collection,” the makeup artist explained, referencing the antelope furs specifically while scrawling a thin black line across the upper lash line with Chanel’s Stylo Yeux Waterproof Eyeliner. A few slicks of mascara on top lashes only provided a hint of additional embellishment.


“I need pins! It’s a big-time pin situation over here,” Lily Donaldson chirped from Philips’ chair, beckoning Sam McKnight to come over and fix her double halo of hair twists. “It’s a dark, Nordic look,” the hairdresser remarked of the style, pointing out that his sleek, embellished coifs were meant to be “almost Victorian, not fairy-tale.” Prepping models’ strands with Sebastian Forte Strong Hold Gel, McKnight created precise middle parts, separating out two low pigtails, which he divided into sections and “twisted like a rope.” “There’s a childlike quality to it,” he surmised, fastening small elastics on each twist’s ends before ultimately removing them for an “undone” effect. It was labor-intensive, to say the least. “We started at 6 a.m.,” McKnight divulged of the call time for the 11:30 a.m. show.

Source: vogue.it, vogue.com, style.com's Beauty Counter Blog

 

[flyme2themoon]

Prada
Makeup: Pat McGrath
Hair: Guido Palau

The orange/black/white/purple on the eyes & brows looks awesome.

The hair! (Runway Hair F/W 12.13? Coming soon)

“Virtual Dolls,” Backstage At Prada
February 23, 2012

There’s something that should be said about the lighting in most backstage areas at most fashion show venues from New York to Paris. It’s unforgivingly bright—and purposely so: the better for makeup artists to see their canvases. So what does this mean for the final beauty look? It can look drastic up close, yet incredibly seamless on the runway. And so it went today at Prada.

“We’ve been here since noon,” Pat McGrath exclaimed before the 6 p.m. presentation commenced, referring to the “busy” face that required a tricolor layering effort on lids. “Mrs. Prada wanted a very strong eye,” the famed facepainter said. And McGrath obliged her, layering an orange greasepaint over blocked-out arches and sweeping a black greasepaint through the crease and up toward the brow bone. Upper and lower lash lines were then rimmed with alternating strokes of black and purple pencil. “They’re all colors from the collection,” McGrath explained of her pigment choices—right up to the theatrical white foundation that she blended from the outer corner of the eyes around the temple, and the ivory paint that helped straighten out the liner.

“They’re virtual dolls,” Guido Palau offered, putting a label on it. “Very manga,” the Redken creative consultant continued, describing the different colored extensions he was adding to emphasize the “synthetic feeling” of it all. “[I chose the extensions] based on which colors clashed best with the girls’ natural hair,” he said. (A long table was littered with opened packages of red, platinum white, and black hues for him to choose from.) Coating hair with Redken Thickening Lotion 06 Body Builder and blow-drying it backward, Palau smoothed strands away from the hairline with its Hardwear 16 Super Strong Gel “so it stayed back,” and then applied its Iron Silk 07 Ultra-Straightening Spray before straight-ironing the entire head. A final mist of Redken Forceful 23 Super Strength Finishing Spray ensured that everything remained superbly structured. “Real girls do this to their hair,” Palau admitted of the ombré streaks that have risen in popularity over the past few seasons on and off the catwalk. “But the perfection here becomes the ‘unreality.’” Leave it to Prada to make something played out, cool again.

Source: vogue.it, vogue.com, style.com's Beauty Counter Blog

 

[MulletProof]

The makeup at Prada is beautiful up close.. and as the makeup of her collection last summer, I also think it works best on dark skin. This time it doesn't create a contrast like with the silver shadows but the orange and then the dark circles seem to work almost ombré-like when done on dark skin. Do I make sense? probably not.

Phillips' work at Fendi is also great as usual.. he's probably the highlight of Fendi shows for me.

Any info on Pringle of Scotland's makeup? loved how the models' skin looked, tried googling it but couldn't access the blog that seemed to have the info!

[stylebistro]

 

[oh me]

Does anybody have some info on the Blumarine make up?

Emilio Pucci was really nice too.

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Braids And Black Lip Balm - Backstage At Pucci
February 26, 2012

Referencing old Helmut Newton photos, Luigi Murenu honed in on a “slightly Germanic but more modern” feeling backstage at Pucci, where he devised what will likely be one of the most readily copied hair looks of the season. “It’s less coiffed and more tousled,” the super-stylist emphasized of the long, slightly wavy locks that he coated with Phyto Professional Intense Volume Mousse and middle-parted before pinning a series of color-matched braided extensions a few inches back from models’ hairlines to resemble a coronet. “It can’t be perfect; then it will look too retro,” Murenu continued, jostling flyaways loose around the face and ensuring that the hair that hung down in the back was languid and slightly texturized.

Lisa Butler was also trying to avoid the dreaded R-word. Taking her cues from Peter Dundas’ collection, which she described as “quite structured,” the makeup artist decided to do “something different” in the form of a smoky lip and a nude eye. “Finally!” she exclaimed, reversing the makeup look at a show that frequently relies on sultry lids and bare mouths. Drawing on a “fat” brow, Butler applied very little base, which she topped with “pink-y, outside-y, baby cheeks,” alternating between MAC Cream Color Base in Coral and its Blushcreme in Brit Wit, depending on each model’s skin tone. “We’re trying to approach each girl differently,” Butler said, using mascara here and black liner pushed into lashes there. The one unifying factor was a custom-blended black lip balm that she created by mixing a hint of MAC Lipmix in Black with its Lip Conditioner. “It’s like these eighties Shiseido lipsticks that were very weak in pigment but gave a little bit of darkness,” she explained of the effect, which read as a barely perceptible soft, black-currant wash on on the runway. “Don’t start wearing black lipstick, though; it’s very unflattering,” Butler warned of taking the idea and running with it—in the wrong direction. Her washed-out incarnation, however, is certainly worth a whirl.

style.it | stlye.com

 

[flyme2themoon]

Blumarine
Makeup: Charlotte Tilbury

Runway & Backstage:

Backstage beauty: Blumarine Autumn/Winter 2012
By Sarah Karmali, Feb 25, 2012

Charlotte Tilbury was at the helm for Blumarine beauty this season (she had a busy day yesterday), and for which she took inspiration from early 90s supermodels: think taking your Jourdan Dunns and Cara Delevignes, and transforming them into new-age Linda Evangelistas and Christy Turlingtons. (Which, FYI, did pretty much happen. We spied both Jourdan and Cara backstage.)

"It's a very strong, angular look," Charlotte told us. "Lots of contouring, with an elongated, quite feline eye."

Mac oil control lotion was used to prep the skin, while Mac Studio Sculpt Foundation and Pure Sculpture Cream were combined to create contouring under the cheekbones, along the jawline and down the neck.

The sultry, feline eye was achieved using Mac Eye Pencil in Coffee (a real favourite among the Milan shows this season) combined with Mac Cream Colour Base in Root across the lid. Individual lashes were added to the outer corners to really lengthen the eye. Then finished off with a coat of Mac Zoomlash mascara.

Arches were accentuated on the brows, to really set off the angular eyes, while a touch of Cream Colour Base in Pearl was added to the apples of the cheeks. Lips were lined with Mac Lip pencil in Spice, combined with a subtle slick of Peachstock Lipstick.

And as for the hair? "Sexy and gorgeous," was the order of the day. Loose and textured, hair was treated with Pantene Volume Mousse and then roughly blow-dried with a large round brush for "a bit of a kick". A double layer of mousse was added to the crown to make the roots really stand up.

With a rough centre parting, the hair was left loose and airy, creating a slightly carefree, individual look for each girl - and set with a quick spritz of Pantene volume hairspray.

The Blumarine girl, she's sexy and she knows it.

Source: vogue.com, vogue.it, mydaily.co.uk

Any info on Pringle of Scotland's makeup?

Didn't find any info either, besides backstage glimpses of the hair & makeup team (applying the lip color) in action:

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