flyme2themoon
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Proenza Schouler
Makeup: Diane Kendal
Hair: Paul Hanlon
Source: vogue.com
Makeup: Diane Kendal
Hair: Paul Hanlon
by Catherine Piercy
THE CREDITS:
Makeup: Diane Kendal for M.A.C
Hair: Paul Hanlon for Frédéric Fekkai
Nails: Shari Gottesman for Perfect Formulas
THE LOOK:
MAKEUP: If Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez were influenced by the work of modernist architect Pietro Belluschi for spring, then models’ spare, well-constructed faces, too, were a masterful study in form. “There’s a bit of a starkness to it,” Diane Kendal said of the squared-off, structural brows and softly sculpted cheekbones. “But it’s still that Proenza idea of something androgynous and also quite sexy.”
HAIR: “We looked at a lot of pictures of Elvis before the show. There’s a bit of a Teddy Boy thing going on with the hair, but it’s more organic, more deconstructed than that,” said Paul Hanlon, referencing the distinctive hairstyle embraced by the British 1950s rock ’n’ roll subculture. “Masculine-feminine. It’s almost like her dad went out for the night and she grabbed his old barbershop comb and went at her hair.” The shiny, slightly wet texture nodded to the gleaming finish of the designers’ ladylike eel-skin skirts, belts, and gloves.
THE TOOLS:
MAKEUP: With a lineup of major faces in the mix—Karolina Kurkova and Liya Kebede amongst them—Kendal’s job was made easier. She dabbed M.A.C. Pro Longwear Concealer only where needed, then filled in the brows with an assortment of M.A.C. pencils and powders. “We’re just matching the girls’ own coloring, and making the shape slightly square, which is more boyish,” she said. Afterward, she dusted a soft taupe contour powder (M.A.C. Bone Beige Sculpting Powder) along the hollows of the cheeks. To keep the skin looking healthy, she finished by swirling a barely there haze of soft pink and peach (M.A.C. Powder blush in Immortal Flower and Love Cloud) onto the cheeks. “That’s it!” she exclaimed. “No mascara, no liner, just a dab of clear lip balm at the end.”
HAIR: "There’s an organic, deconstructed quality to the hair," said Hanlon, who doused it with Fekkai COIFF Océanique Tousled Wave Spray to give it a weathered texture. After working the company’s Coiff NonChalant Piecing & Foaming Wax onto the crown, he melted the product with the heat of a blow-dryer, and then raked a wide tooth comb through it. The effect,” said Hanlon, was to create “these prolonged grooves on the side of the head. It’s very groomed,” he said, before tying the ends into an undone, pulled-apart knot.
NAILS: Models’ clean, natural nails were a quiet compliment to the lineup of brightly colored raffia crewneck sweaters and circle skirts. Only a small handful of girls—Julia Nobis and Elsa Sylvan amongst them—got a coat of manicurist Shari Gottesman’s yellow polish in Pollen. “Bright but neutral, which is a hard balance to strike,” she said. “It’s meant to pick up on the saturated yellow and orange tones of the collection and in the bags.”