Runway Makeup S/S 12

[flyme2themoon]

Alexander McQueen
Makeup: Peter Philips
Hair: Guido Palau
Nails: Marian Newman

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by Catherine Piercy

THE CREDITS:
Hair, Guido Palau for Redken
Makeup, Peter Philips
Nails, Marian Newman for Minx

THE LOOK:

HAIR: For Guido Palau—the same hairstylist who created the headpieces for the Metropolitan Museum of Art Costume Institute’s Alexander McQueen exhibit this year—the decision to craft a series of embellished lace hoods for the runway felt somewhat organic. “I had the Met in my head and then I had a conversation with Sarah [Burton],” said Palau, whose long relationship with the house has given him a near intuitive sense of its above-the-neck aesthetic. The 34 exquisite pieces he designed—in a palette of primarily black, white, and gold—were subsequently produced by the designer’s team and matched carefully to each look in the collection. In keeping with Burton’s softer, more feminine direction for McQueen, they possessed a romantic quality, slipping on over the head, dipping over the eyes, and clasping gently around the throat.

MAKEUP: “Makeup,” said Peter Philips, pausing for a beat before breaking into a smile. “Well . . . there’s not much.” With Palau’s hoods eclipsing so much of the face, he set to work creating “nude skin with a semi-matte finish” on the face and body.

NAILS: Working with remarkable speed alongside Minx founders Janice Jordan and Dawn Lynch-Goodwin at a long table backstage, Marian Newman prepped premade pink and ivory tips with holographic metallic, matte silver, and gold foil based on Burton’s descriptive references. “Mother-of-pearl” and “standing at the sea,” she said of the buzzwords that inspired their blurry, marbleized finish.

THE TOOLS:

HAIR: Working in the same space where Alexander McQueen held his spring 2009 show, Palau’s team meticulously braided models’ hair into neat, tight cornrows that lay flat against the head. The goal was to make room for his slim cloth hoods, which contained a hidden zipper down the back. “The lace is quite sheer so the girls can see through,” he explained—a good thing given their towering platform shoes.

MAKEUP: Philips smoothed Chanel Pro Lumière foundation onto the face and limbs to even out redness and cover imperfections. To ensure the faint outline of a face just below, rather than anything “too alien,” he built up the brows slightly using a latex-based pro glue that simultaneously sealed the hairs in place.

Source: vogue.it, vogue.com

 

[flyme2themoon]

Yves Saint Laurent
Makeup: Pat McGrath
Hair: Guido Palau for Redken
Nails: Anny Errandonea

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by Catherine Piercy

THE CREDITS:
Makeup: Pat McGrath
Hair: Guido Palau for Redken
Nails: Anny Errandonea

THE LOOK:
MAKEUP: It was the bold, original style of Saint Laurent loyalists Talitha Getty and Ann Bonfoey Taylor that inspired the spirit of YSL’s spring face. “Young, eccentric, and rich,” Pat McGrath said of the bleached brows, dramatically lined eyes, and metallic red lips.

HAIR: If last year’s must-have accessory was the YSL cage bootie, this season’s statement piece may be the cage barrette. Palau fastened the large metal hair ornaments, made of stiff concave gold bands anchored to an oblong base, over his teased chignons. “It’s quite womanly and very classic Saint Laurent,” he said of the overtly glamorous look.

THE TOOLS:
SKIN: McGrath kept the complexion fresh with a lightweight foundation and powder where needed.

EYES: Models like Abbey Lee Kershaw sat for a pedicure while their brows were painted with bleach, then cleaned up and combed into place. Once prepped, McGrath mixed inky shades of brown and black liquid liner to get the perfect shade of deep chocolate, and painted it onto the outer corners of the eyes in an extended U-shape inspired by Getty’s signature look. “It’s over the top but modern,” she said, swiping on mascara.

LIPS: “It’s time to change things up!” said McGrath, whose “couture mouth” relied on a precise application of metallic crimson lip color (premixed for the occasion by McGrath). “It’s like foil,” she said of its slight textured sheen. “We might bump it up another notch right before the girls hit the runway.”

HAIR: Those elaborate hair pieces, made in house by YSL for the occasion, were surprisingly lightweight. Palau playfully tossed one from hand to hand while chatting with McGrath about the look backstage, then got down to work. After blowing hair dry with Redken Satinwear 02 Ultimate Blow-Dry lotion to create smooth texture at the head, he pulled it straight back into a ponytail and teased the length of it. Once he’d wound it into a hybrid bun-chignon, he fastened on the accessory and misted it with Redken Forceful 23 hairspray for hold.

NAILS: YSL La Laque in Beige Leger—a creamy nude that launches in spring 2012—on hands and feet.

Source: vogue.com, vogue.it

 

[VersaceVixen009]

Thanks so much for the tips! Im loving the natural skin this summer! And the pink/red lips to be bold too, which I usually like.