Saint Laurent F/W 13.14 Paris

[Izreal]

First of all Izreal please explain how come you understand what's going on here so much better than all of us? I'd love some enlightening.

well as i just mentioned.. most of the commentators here are under the pilati spell.. they've jumped on any occasion to bash hedi since he was appointed and made news of the name change... nothing he will ever do will make them happy... even worst they believe YSL started with Pilati... they seem unaware YSL started something revolutionary called "Saint Laurent: Rive Gauche" the first RTW label by a designer which had strong pop art sensibilities and focused on rebellious youth and clothed the new young "it girls" when aging divas were still the mass focus... sexuality, androginity, independence, decadence.. that was the lifestyle.. may i remind some of you that catherine deneuve was revealed in belle du jour.. where she plays a young housewife that decides to become a prostitute... and since a picture says more then words, here is on of betty (yves lifelong muse whom he called his "twin sister") have a look at SS13 and tell me you don't see the connection:

style.com

 

[Egoiste]

^Yes, it sounds as the same philosophy as Saint Laurent: Rive Gauche. But Mr. Saint Laurent's interpretation was creative, beautiful. And what Slimane did here? Do you think nowadays it girls want to wear this? Hell no. And talking about young generation. Girls that would wear this can afford it...

 

[FakeFlower]

What a disaster!
Makes me want to cry.

 

[Izreal]

^ for every stan there are at least ten stef(anos) here

Do you think nowadays it girls want to wear this? Hell no.

dunno about your country...but here in paris it has definitely caught on.. a recent visit to SLP boutique revealed a lot of stuff had been cleaned out except big sizes.. those big hats were all over streets during fashion week... i'd imagine the same in nyc/la/tokyo etc...

 

[mistress_f]

^you really are new to this board, aren't you. reactions to stefano's collection were mostly negative around these parts. in fact i think that many of the people disgusted by this collection were as equally displeased by stefano's.
the fact that this looks like primark has nothing to do with one's liking or disliking of stefano's work lol.

 

[Egoiste]

^^His first collection was not perfect, but a better than this, some classic element from ysl archive. But this. This is nothing. No creativity, just styling. Horrible styling....

 

[lelaid]

My issue with Saint Laurent is that they direct Hedi is directing his clothes to the young, hip, rocker crowd but with the prices they charge I don't know very many people in that group who can afford it. I don't even want to guess how much the flannels in this collection will cost, i'm willing to guess somewhere in the $1,000 range.

 

[Marc10]

All in all, I must say this is adding a little spice that FW was needing. Can't wait to see what he does next. I don't remember a designer causing so much commotion and strong opinions since... McQueen in the 90's? Let's just hope next time the clothes will also be worth of excitement.

 

[Uemarasan]

A more convincing case could be made for this collection if those who believed in Slimane's vision practiced temperance and balanced the praise with criticism. It's like those who love Tom Ford. It's always to the point of blindness.

Never cared about Slimane, Dior Homme included. I thought Pilati was somewhat interesting. Tom Ford is a virus. And the man himself (Yves Saint Laurent), in my humble opinion, I thought overrated. A good designer, one that I respect, but not one of the greats.

This collection, however, is not worth further comment. And using Pilati as the reason why people hate this is a futile straw man argument.

 

[UpperEchelon]

This collection was awful, no matter how much people try to find nice things about it
I just hope fashion editors all over the word don't put anything from it at any magazine like they all did with his past collection ( i also didn't like that one, but at least it had some great elements)

 

[Les_Sucettes]

well as i just mentioned.. most of the commentators here are under the pilati spell.. they've jumped on any occasion to bash hedi since he was appointed and made news of the name change... nothing he will ever do will make them happy... even worst they believe YSL started with Pilati... they seem unaware YSL started something revolutionary called "Saint Laurent: Rive Gauche" the first RTW label by a designer which had strong pop art sensibilities and focused on rebellious youth and clothed the new young "it girls" when aging divas were still the mass focus... sexuality, androginity, independence, decadence.. that was the lifestyle.. may i remind some of you that catherine deneuve was revealed in belle du jour.. where she plays a young housewife that decides to become a prostitute... and since a picture says more then words, here is on of betty (yves lifelong muse whom he called his "twin sister") have a look at SS13 and tell me you don't see the connection:

[/SIZE]

We are not discussing SS13. It was a poor men's idea of YSL, but I think people got the point.
But Remind me again, what a grunge aesthetic that has been done to dead, has to do with YSL? There is nothing new or original about grunge, the grunge look that in its original incarnation did not emanate on the catwalk, was quickly assimilated by it. 90s grunge was never uncool for any rehabilitation to be seen as something original or rebellious.
I'm sure Marc Jacobs cannot believe his eyes.

 

[coco vaughn]

i kinda like some of these clothes...i was thinking while going through the looks that i would wear that leather coat, or those shoes. BUT this is something like i can buy in Zara/Topshop, and vintage stores for low prices, and i'm only 21, and not a millionaire who buys high fashion. this is just beneath Yves Saint Laurent's dignity and legacy.
however it's gonna sell well, tons of rich teenagers and celebrities like Taylor Momsen or Miley Cyrus will wear these pieces proudly... high fashion in general is not on the right path. (btw...how is this a fall-winter collection?? it would be more suitable at a summer festival.)

 

[beaverhausen]

When Yves Saint Laurent started Rive Gauche it was rebellious, yes, it was revolutionary, and it was new. Also it was still chic.
When Marc did grunge for Perry Ellis it was rebellious, it was revolutionary and it was new.
What Hedi did was just dig through boxes of old clothes left over from 1993, dust them off (at least I hope he did) and sent them down the runway. There was nothing new, revolutionary and definitely nothing chic or Saint Laurent about it.
And THAT is the big difference between Yves in the 60s starting Saint Laurent Rive Gauche and what Hedi is doing now.

 

[abc123]

well as i just mentioned.. most of the commentators here are under the pilati spell.. they've jumped on any occasion to bash hedi since he was appointed and made news of the name change... nothing he will ever do will make them happy... even worst they believe YSL started with Pilati... they seem unaware YSL started something revolutionary called "Saint Laurent: Rive Gauche" the first RTW label by a designer which had strong pop art sensibilities and focused on rebellious youth and clothed the new young "it girls" when aging divas were still the mass focus... sexuality, androginity, independence, decadence.. that was the lifestyle.. may i remind some of you that catherine deneuve was revealed in belle du jour.. where she plays a young housewife that decides to become a prostitute... and since a picture says more then words, here is on of betty (yves lifelong muse whom he called his "twin sister") have a look at SS13 and tell me you don't see the connection:


style.com

No, I can only speak for myself but I was not under a Pilati spell. And furthermore I was genuinely excited about Hedi's return to design.
I really liked what he did at Dior Homme as it felt current and representative of a movement that was happening at that time.
However , the last two collections he has produced for St Laurent are quite simply lazy. For FW13 He is referencing back to looks that trickled down to the high street 2-3 years ago. He is not updating this look or giving it any more relevance than it had then.
The reason there is such a reaction to this is simply because people who work in this industry do not like having their intelligence insulted and their time wasted.
I'm bored. I don't even want to read another review, look at another picture or even read this thread anymore. That's the problem.

 

[HeatherAnne]

There's nothing gunge about this. I'm sick of critics using the word "grunge" as a synonym for $hit.

Also, stop trying to convince us this is how the cool progressive kids in California dress, we ain't buying it: literally and figuratively.

[Eyes roll out of head].

 

[mrsjamesdean]

Hedi is delusional and why are people allowing him to get away with this? I don't think he's a important or relevant figure imo, sure inspirational to those who are like totes interested in fashuun but no.

Surely if the PPR want to make money and target a different audience with this diaster then why not make a diffusion line? Now they just ruined over 50 years of hard work.

 

[t-rex]

people here are under Pilati's spell and fail to realize his vision of YSL is only his and not that of Yves/Pierre's...

I believe even those who weren't a fan of Pilati would still say he stayed very true to the YSL woman, image, and its past. Could you explain Yves' vision of YSL and the visions Pilati and Slimane had/have for the house?

 

[barbiestolemyDVN]

I think arguing that TFS-ers and others are hung up on Pilati is totally redundant considering everyone and their grandma were rooting for Heidi--like Cathy Horyn said, people wanted him to succeed.

 

[donyan]

This shouldn't even be talked about , it is completely unrelevant. Not good not bad, just nothing at all.
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[Not Plain Jane]

I share some of your sentiments. I completely agree with everyone who finds this to be a disgrace to the YSL brand. It simply has absolutely nothing to with what this fashion house is about and such a drastic change is very hard to digest. However, I have to say, in spite of the overwhelmingly literal grunge styling which in this form just seems not suited for any high fashion show, I find myself loving many individual pieces here. The details in many of the close-ups are beautiful. I'll admit that this looks exactly like everything the awesome blogger at F*** Yeah Ugly 90's clothes likes to bash for being commercialized try-hard grunge, the overstyled Hollywood grunge kind of look. But I used to be obsessed with the wardrobe in movies like The Craft and shows like My So-Called Life and this is the exact same thing and I surprisingly find that I still like it and would wear quite a few pices from this collection (if they were affordable). I especially love the leather jackets and tailored pieces. And some of the oversized sweaters are really nice, too. And I think this dress is really beautiful.
I'm not claiming that there aren't many looks here that are overly trashy and completely vile, but I don't find this the worst collection we've seen this Paris Fashion Week, even if I am in no way trying to make excuses for him. Presenting this under this name is wrong and he indeed should have just started his own label because he is not doing himself any favor by ruining such an iconic brand and p*ssing so many people off with his attitude and stubbornness.

I quite agree with you - this is a balanced and honest view and I found I had the same mixed reaction.

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I really do think people like Alison Mosshart, Kate Moss, Alexa Chung, Kirsten Dunst, The Richards, The Jaggers, Daisy Lowe, Geldof girls, Frances Bean Cobain, perhaps the Fannings, etc etc are ALL going to want pieces from this collection; it is going to sell, I suspect.