Saint Laurent F/W 2018.19 Paris

[billiejbob]

I mean...it's not bad but it's far from good.

I actually like it more than his previous collection but he's definitely cruising through.

Those floral dresses could have been beautiful if he used patterns and prints that didn't look like a grandma's sofa.

I'm getting a sexy mid-20s Mrs Doubtfire vibe from them.

 

[maxlinden]

 

[HeatherAnne]

Looks like Zara knocking off Slimane's YSL. Embarrassing really.

 

[chanelh]

why all the brands looks like ZARA these days.....so cheap
if you can't make the clothes fabulous and stunning, at least make them look expensive, because that's the most basic thing you can expect from a luxury brand

 

[jeremydante]

i love this collection, and though it may be safe- i feel like the YSL customer will be satisfied. regardless- the collection will be styled all the way up, editorially. i loved all the looks- could've done without the florals. jamie bochert's off the shoulder fur look is my favorite in the collection.

 

[helmutnotdead]

Seriously, this is at the same level of sh*t of Maria Grazia at Dior. Zero everything. The menswear is the definition of unnecessary. He's just as bad as MGC, Virgil, Olivier...

I'm still in awe because I just don't get why he got Yves Saint Laurent. He doesn't even speak in a modern, ambitious or experimental language. Everything is so old fashioned (and not in a good way). I want him out ASAP.

Just like Cathy Horyn said in a very old review for Slimane: There are nothing special about those clothes. They could be displayed in a Topshop Store an nobody will notice it. But, oh, there is a Saint Laurent tag on the neck.

 

[guimon]

By far his worst and weakest collection yet. So unoriginal.
There's literally no direction here. It's a bunch of nothing, and it's all over the place. What a huge step back from his latest (very strong, imo) collection.

This is not even Fall/Winter enough for my taste. It could literally pass as a Spring/Summer collection. And the floral dresses at the end... What was that? Tragic ending, to a tragic collection.

 

[mistress_f]

lol remember when i used to complain about hedi's same-old collections? This takes that to a whole new level. It's infinitely less ugly than previous seasons' monstrosity, but still... everything looks the same (as his own line as well lol), nothing is desirable or worth looking at twice. what a sad state fashion is in :|

 

[dodencebt]

I was actually a fan of last season's collection so I expected him to continue in this direction, but this is very underwhelming for me. It's basically an exercise in churning out as much product as possible and nothing else. And the menswear doesn't interest me one bit.

 

[gazebo]

If he's gonna copy anyone, he should copy Tom Ford!
It'll be much more contemporary.

 

[tricotineacetat]

I'm not exactly sure how well it speaks of Hedi Slimane that his successor manages to come up with a collection that makes the regular customer at Saint Laurent wonder if the house really changed designers.

One thing that can be said about Hedi is that, once all the blocks of the re-branded Saint Laurent were put in place, it was possible for another designer to pick up where he left and grant the house a steady growth, granted he would follow the mold established by Slimane. You can see that being the case here as much as it was apparent at Dior Homme where the tailoring foundation was laid and a lot of timeless products introduced by Hedi Slimane keep on being best sellers (tailoring, jeans, bags, footwear). Despite some stylistic tweaks, you can see that Vaccarello's jackets from the 1st all-black part of the show were modeled after patterns that existed from Hedi's tenure. Dito for the menswear - No way they would let a designer with zero experience in menswear take on a significant part of the houses' business without the reliance on a large amount of products they can re-issue with small variations. Yes, this is a bit more sexy looking on the runway but I don't think the majorities of SLP customers who are not diehard Hedi Slimane fans from the very beginning will find it hard to adjust to Vaccarello's design.

Rick Owens said in an interview that he believes his namesake company could live on without a designer for a good 15 years by re-issuing or tweaking his existing designs by seasonal parameters, so maybe there is some truth in that here.

 

[dodencebt]

^ Well, you are right. And one could argue that that is the genius of Slimane. I doubt anyone here thinks that he is a great designer, or even a good one.

 

[ghostwriter10549]

I was expecting something heavy and more constructed to this season, but I like it. I actually never get over the "rock and roll YSL glamour" aesthetics so Im not exactly the right person to say if this is good or bad, but, knowing now that we gonna see this clothes everywhere next season Im happy that we are going to see very good clothes.

 

[Lola701]

It's a good or decent show for what it is. It's inoffensive at best and forgettable at worst.
Anthony Vaccarello has always done that: black, skinny, Vogue Paris/Jean Colonna thing.
It all feels like a best-of already with some YSL 80's couture gowns cut into mini-skirts. That's it.
The 80's were some of the worst years of YSL IMO but i've always loved the way designers have reintroduced that in a modern way. This is just literal and lazy and ugly. Those colored dresses at the end kinda killed the whole show. Nobody wants to look like a throwback.

This show is very Parisienne, very Vogue Paris...
It doesn't add anything to the conversation. He is giving to people want they want and that's my problem. A designer should be able to challenge people and also himself. Unfortunately today, designers are only doing a "designer or expensive" version of everyday clothes.

He needs to stop putting menswear on the runway because that is his weakness. Hedi is an amazing menswear designer as much as he is (at least from what he showed) a mediocre womenswear designer.
I still prefer Vaccarello than Hedi as a womenswear designer because despite the lack of a very sharp vision, there's an effort of design even if it sometimes look a mess.

He hasn't shown a trench coat worn with a jean and a tank top and rainboots so, he still got my respect.

Ps: those platform boots are tacky!

 

[Nymphaea]

By far his worst and weakest collection yet. So unoriginal.
There's literally no direction here. It's a bunch of nothing, and it's all over the place. What a huge step back from his latest (very strong, imo) collection.

This is not even Fall/Winter enough for my taste. It could literally pass as a Spring/Summer collection. And the floral dresses at the end... What was that? Tragic ending, to a tragic collection.

+1 The previous collection was good, but this , could have been much better. The floral dresses at the end, burn them!

 

[mackos]

For some reason I liked most of it. Might be the music (which is always spot on) or simply the fact I didn't really feel that moved by any of the shows so far.

Also, don't judge me but I sort of loved the 80's dresses part. And I'm not the fan of the 80's to put it (really) mildly.

 

[Aurimas]

I think this brand is on autopilot and living off the Hedi effect , but problem is when Hedi presents his collections at Celine which again will probably be renditions of 80s disco sluts and punk whores , how will Vacarello fare?

I really expect something new and different from Hedi at Celine and I really hope that he will not take the same direction there that he took at Saint Laurent, otherwise it would be both disaster for Celine and for Hedi,and for Saint Laurent too. I also hope Hedi would use more colours and more white, and will come up with completely fresh concepts he have not explored before. I am so tired of those black clothes already, of all that fake glitter, fake gold, poor quality and fits, of all that cold modernism...

 

[Nomar]

Not a great collection at all. Really just more of the same and everything begins to blur after a few looks. Don't even get me started on the menswear though....

 

[Fashionstuff]

Very Hedi Slimane. Surely, Vaccarello did similar, skinny, mini, sexy and asymmetrical clothes before. Doing YSL he lost his obsession with this assymetrical pieces in every look. But where to order this flower dresses? Ugly.
Some looks are like Hedi did them by himself. Seems to be taken from Hedi's past YSL collections and droped direct to runway under YSLby Vaccarello.

 

[blackcherrified]

He is very limited. Of course he should use archives but not in such literal way. This job is too serious for him. YSL needs a real designer not copycat... (Alber is still unemployed )

Yes yes... YSL needs Alber, someone who had worked alongside/interacted with the master himself, but would he wants to come back to the house given that he was pretty stress then (read that in some interview before)...?