Saint Laurent - The All-Things Saint Laurent Thread

[LadyJunon]

Anthony Vaccarello is heading the jury for ANDAM's 35 anniversary. He was the winner of the prize back in 2011.

Andam celebrates its 35th edition with Saint Laurent's creative director Anthony Vaccarello

By Dominique Muret
Published Jan 10, 2024

Andam is launching its call for entries for 2024. For its 35th anniversary, the fashion competition for young designers has chosen Anthony Vaccarello, Saint Laurent's creative director, to head the jury. He will also mentor the winners for a year. As last year, the competition is offering 700,000 euros in prize money.

Choosing Anthony Vaccarello is a tribute to Pierre Bergé, who, with the Fondation Pierre Bergé - Yves Saint Laurent, helped to create the prize in 1989, and was its president until 2017, when the designer's CEO Francesca Bellettini sponsored the competition. What's more, the Belgian designer, who won the Andam prize in 2011, is the first designer to take on this role, usually reserved for the leaders of the houses that sponsor the competition.

"Andam has a special significance for Saint Laurent and myself as it has been chaired by Monsieur Pierre Bergé since its inception and for nearly 30 years, and I am fortunate to be one of Andam's prizewinners. For these reasons, I am sincerely honoured to be joining the event as president of the jury for this special anniversary edition," Anthony Vaccarello commented in a press release.

Vaccarello succeeds Riccardo Bellini, the former CEO of Chloé, who last year awarded Louis Gabriel Nouchi the 34th Andam Prize, while Ester Manas and Duran Lantink received the Special Prize, Avellano won the Pierre Bergé Prize (formerly the Creative Label Prize) and Ukrainian designer Ruslan Baginskiy the Fashion Accessories Prize.

To mark the 35th anniversary of Andam (the national association for the development of the fashion arts), a competition founded by Nathalie Dufour, a series of initiatives will take place throughout 2024, including collaborations, pop-ups and special projects.

The jury will be announced in February by Anthony Vaccarello. Candidates can apply online at andam.fr until 31 March 2024. The shortlisted finalists will be announced at the end of May, while the jury will meet on Thursday, June 27 to announce its decision. The jury will award five prizes: the Andam Grand Prize (300,000 euros), the Special Grand Prize (100,000 euros), the Pierre Bergé Prize (100,000 euros), the Fashion Accessories Prize (100,000 euros) and the Innovation Prize (100,000 euros).

Source: Fashion Network

 

[Frederic01]

What happened with the Men’s Autumn Winter collection? Don’t tell me they are doing a look book again?

 

[Nimsay]

I only recently discovered Rive Droite includes $70 tote bags. What is Kering doing ?? They spent decades building YSL back up only to part the brand out with cheap products again.

 

[Lola701]

I only recently discovered Rive Droite includes $70 tote bags. What is Kering doing ?? They spent decades building YSL back up only to part the brand out with cheap products again.

Rive droite is their version of Colette. It was created on the back of Colette actually. Part of the strategy to create a lifestyle brand…

The difference now is that they totally control the production and the distribution, so no fear regarding the image of the brand. A lot of items at Rive Droite are collaborations or curations…A huge difference from the licensing that was tarnishing the business.

 

[NoInvite]

The Rive Droite concept does definitely look cheap.
15 euro bottle openers really compliments the collection? I don't see the connection.

 

[Kimihiro]

I mean should we go further than the Rive Droit condoms?

I’m not sure if it’s hurting Saint Laurent a bit since it’s more of a limited distribution thing. I’d rather they don’t do it though.

 

[yslforever]

I only recently discovered Rive Droite includes $70 tote bags. What is Kering doing ?? They spent decades building YSL back up only to part the brand out with cheap products again.

those are my little secrets, I collect them... their price is cheap but are not cheaply made. Don't diss those bags...

 

[tourbillions]

what exactly is rive droite and 70% totes?? never seen them

 

[Lola701]

what exactly is rive droite and 70% totes?? never seen them

Rive Droite, or Saint Laurent Rive Droite is the lifestyle store/brand/department of Saint Laurent.
When Colette closed in 2017, YSL took the space. Part of the deal was for them to have some Colette Staff remaining. So they introduced their concept store, « Their Colette ».

So over there, much like when Colette was there, they are selling exclusive products from Chocolate to Cristal cups, ceramic mugs, fabric totes, a selection of books and vinyls, pens, HF Jewelry, skateboards, snowboards, sound-systems, and of course fashion.
Those products are either made in collaboration (for the most part) or produced by Saint Laurent.

I don’t know if everything is available on the website but I’ve bought some ceramic coffee mugs on there. Either way they have 2 stores in Paris and one store in LA.

 

[tourbillions]

ahh i always wondered if those mugs/merch were real! never seen them in stores here. I did a search on their u.s. site and some flasks look pretty cool

 

[yslforever]

ahh i always wondered if those mugs/merch were real! never seen them in stores here. I did a search on their u.s. site and some flasks look pretty cool

They are officially only available in 2 or 3 stores but also online, which totally ruins the concept of stores exclusives, so I don't know what they are doing.
Their ex-Colette location is always empty and I don't think they will keep much longer.
Also their new bookstore/art gallery on bd St Germain, behind the store and below the studio, is total crap... Karl Lagerfeld's bookstore is still here, a couple of blocks away, and has a brilliant selection.

 

[Lola701]

They are officially only available in 2 or 3 stores but also online, which totally ruins the concept of stores exclusives, so I don't know what they are doing.
Their ex-Colette location is always empty and I don't think they will keep much longer.
Also their new bookstore/art gallery on bd St Germain, behind the store and below the studio, is total crap... Karl Lagerfeld's bookstore is still here, a couple of blocks away, and has a brilliant selection.

I actually think that Vaccarello is not that great or interesting as a curator. Maybe if he involved the house ambassadors or friends of the house, the whole thing would feel more organic.
Their design spaces are too intimidating for people to go in. It’s very cold!
Imagine going there just to pick mugs and caps… Easy to see why it’s empty over there.

But it’s a fantastic location!

 

[LadyJunon]

Saint Laurent is holding a book signing for Juergen Teller's new book at their Paris-Babylone store:

 

[LadyJunon]

Saint Laurent Rive Droite has collaborated with Ginori 1735 to reissue 12 designs:

Saint Laurent Is Giving New Meaning to Fashion Plates
It teamed up with Ginori 1735 to reissue 12 dinner-ready designs by Gio Ponti, originally created in 1957 for a villa in Caracas, Venezuela.

By MILES SOCHA
APRIL 3, 2024, 1:00AM

FASHION PLATES: Saint Laurent‘s participation in the upcoming Salone Del Mobile in Milan has quite the backstory: The fashion house’s artistic arm Saint Laurent Rive Droite will exhibit plate designs that architect Gio Ponti created in 1957 for an exceptional villa in Venezuela.

Saint Laurent creative director Anthony Vaccarello is curating the display at the Chiostro Grande di San Simpliciano in collaboration with the Gio Ponti archive and the Fundación Anala y Armando Planchart. It will run from April 16 to 21.

In addition, Saint Laurent Rive Droite commissioned Kering-owned tableware and ceramics maker Ginori 1735 to reissue 12 of the plates. Ponti, who died in 1979, was once an artistic director at the Florentine manufacturer, prized for its know-how, colorful designs and meticulous hand-painting.

Anala and Armando Planchart, who made his fortune importing Cadillacs into Venezuela, chose Ponti to design their dream home in Caracas, perched on a hill, its pinched shape vaguely inspired by a butterfly. It is considered a masterpiece of midcentury architecture.

Ponti not only designed the house but also incorporated furniture he had made by Altamira, Cassina and M. Singer & Sons, as well as lamp designs made for Arredoluce, Fontana Arte and other industrial design firms.

According to the Villa Planchart website, the courtyard villa was designed to exalt the couple’s art collection — which included an Alexander Calder mobile, Armando Reverón paintings and a Fausto Melotti ceramic mural — and their passion for orchids.

Ponti decorated the set of Ginori 1735 tableware, known as the Planchart Segnaposto collection, with symbols and motifs seen in the house. These include a sun, crescent moon, polar star and iterations of the letter “A” in homage to Anala and Armando.

The reissued plates, hand-painted at Ginori’s Florentine workshops, will be sold as limited-edition items on YSL.com, at the Saint Laurent Rive Droite boutique in Los Angeles, the Saint Laurent Babylone book and record shop in Paris, and by appointment during Milan Design Week at the Saint Laurent flagship on Via Montenapoleone.

Source: WWD

 

[LadyJunon]

Does anyone have a clue on when Saint Laurent is showing their next menswear collection? Usually, we would've announced back in May for a July show, but we've heard nothing from them.

 

[celinecaptain]

Does anyone have a clue on when Saint Laurent is showing their next menswear collection? Usually, we would've announced back in May for a July show, but we've heard nothing from them.

im assuming it might follow the pattern of the last show, a day or shortly after the next womenswear week but otherwise there is no official information

 

[celinecaptain]

did anyone check out the website redesign? looks dope to me finally going away from the hedi slimane era one

 

[LadyJunon]

did anyone check out the website redesign? looks dope to me finally going away from the hedi slimane era one

The website redesign is absolutely gorgeous. I've noticed that they changed the logo to the modified Neo-Cassandre graphic that they've been using since their Winter 22 campaign:

Source: Saint Laurent

Saint Laurent has obviously been making a gradual shift towards a more heritage-focused identity since Hedi moved to Celine. They changed their product range to suit the haute bourgeoisie glamour that the brand was historically known for. They hired Teller for the Newton-style imagery of their main campaigns and changed their stylist. They started heavily referencing the brand's history for collections themes.

That said, I wasn't excepting a full commitment to the "new" logo at all. Slimane's rebranding, although controversal, was very successful and it must've been a very expensive investement too. My best guess it that the shift was done in aim of realigning the brand with the couture house and building long term brand recognition. Reducing the impact of Slimane's tenure while he's helming another brand under a rival group must have played a role too.

 

[PDFSD]

did anyone check out the website redesign? looks dope to me finally going away from the hedi slimane era one

verry blogger 2001 and the Saint Laurent in cassandra without the Yves looks so bootleg .......the IG brand vision is now complete

 

[PDFSD]

some parts its giving HELMUT NEWTON the TIK TOK version.... the male actor cameo was not necessary