Saint Laurent F/W 2023.24 Paris

[susseinmcswanny]

The clothes don't really speak to me. A bit tired of the 80s rn. If you like the big monster rick owens shoulder trend but crave a more classic style, go for it! I do like what they did with the set though!!

 

[reese06]

It’s nice and beautiful but it doesn’t elicit an emotional response from me. The shoes are lovely as always and the seeing the detail shots makes me appreciate the collection and styling more.

I love that these are clothes for a very adult woman. Very simple, but very elegant and the woman wearing this is definitely confident and sure of herself. That white blouse with the cowl neck draping at the back is divine.

Now....the shoulders are way too big and comical. Hideous actually. If I was a celebrity stylist I would be trying to get my client in that immediately, just for the press and attention it would garner in all its ridiculousness.

the coats with draped fabric over them are ugly. I understand them in theory but they’re not flattering and do not make a statement.

Beautiful casting. Glad he is sticking to his aesthetic in that regard.

 

[eugenius]

I don’t mind the big shoulders, just so long as he modifies that for retail.

But Christ, the footwear looks uncomfortable AF.

Regardless, good work all around.

 

[CommanderTMugler]

Ugh, I hate that this is going to continue to push the annoying oversized trend.

Just imagine it… girls with their #cleangirlasthetic, hair middle parted and back in a bun, a crop top, distressed boyfriend jeans and an oversized blazer… groundbreaking.

Hailey Bieber front and center.

 

[Phuel]

It’s nice and beautiful but it doesn’t elicit an emotional response from me. The shoes are lovely as always and the seeing the detail shots makes me appreciate the collection and styling more.

I love that these are clothes for a very adult woman. Very simple, but very elegant and the woman wearing this is definitely confident and sure of herself. That white blouse with the cowl neck draping at the back is divine.

Now....the shoulders are way too big and comical. Hideous actually. If I was a celebrity stylist I would be trying to get my client in that immediately, just for the press and attention it would garner in all its ridiculousness.

the coats with draped fabric over them are ugly. I understand them in theory but they’re not flattering and do not make a statement.

Beautiful casting. Glad he is sticking to his aesthetic in that regard.

HIs YSL is all an important lesson in impeccable branding. Frankly, the clothes are rather secondary to the epic, sweeping cinematics. And god, are the visuals good. And it’s so good to see the classic YSL logo back. It really means something to respect the tradition of its founder when that logo is such a standalone monolith of what high fashion represents. Immaculate visuals that he’s learned to exploit supremely well to compensate for his rather limited design skills. Learn it kidz.

There’s nothing new nor fresh to the staples of his YSL. Not that that’s a bad thing, since the egos that run amok with other legendary houses are abysmal (...see Burberry). And now that he’s finally found his footing with YSL-- instead of picking up Hedi’s scraps, I wished he had more confidence than to always rely on the shoulder-gimmick. He doesn’t need it. Good staples backed by such a strong branding is sometimes all the customer wants.

 

[george5]

Saint Laurent's "Kris Van Assche for Dior Homme" era

 

[Gonzalo]

Nothing new under the sun ...

 

[Gonzalo]

Now a nondescript model for the campaing and to continue waiting for the glow ...

 

[liberty33r1b]

hate those shoulders

 

[volft]

I believe the only time Vaccarello shows bags on the runway is when it's a new model or reissue, otherwise, the models are aux mains libres. I don't think Pilati or Ford have shown bags at shows, either. Hedi, our beloved merchandiser, has however.

I'm trying to be more zen, but if I wasn't, I would have pulled up every picture of Pilati or Ford showing bags on the runway to shove them into your face. The whole "Hedi = merchandiser = bad" argument gives off ivory tower levels of being out of touch with the reality that fashion is a business. It is also kind of sad that Anthony's work will never be able to be viewed as something standalone. It will always be judged in relation to Hedi's work. He will always be unable to escape Hedi. If his work was so great it would speak for itself without anyone feeling the need to bring up Hedi, because Hedi is so irrelevant and inconsequential compared to the greatness present. Unfortunately, evidently that's not the case here.

 

[LadyJunon]

I was looking through my YSL archive book for the first time and just realised now that this show is a reference to Yves' "Ballets Russes" show, Yves' first show with music and his first held outside of his fashion house.

The red and green tartans that appears on passages 17, 18, 25 and 28 are adapted from the tartans on passages 29 and 48 of the original.

The staging also references the staging of this show with some modernising modification. Both runways are raised, long and straight with the exception of a circle splitting the length in half. Betak's version seems to be longer and the circle is much larger to suit modern preferences for long runways.

There's the more obvious chandeliers hanging down from the ceiling and the "YSL" logo at the back end of the runway. Betak's version has it so the third of the five chandeliers are larger and the logo is "floating".

 

[LadyJunon]

I'm trying to be more zen, but if I wasn't, I would have pulled up every picture of Pilati or Ford showing bags on the runway to shove them into your face. The whole "Hedi = merchandiser = bad" argument gives off ivory tower levels of being out of touch with the reality that fashion is a business. It is also kind of sad that Anthony's work will never be able to be viewed as something standalone. It will always be judged in relation to Hedi's work. He will always be unable to escape Hedi. If his work was so great it would speak for itself without anyone feeling the need to bring up Hedi, because Hedi is so irrelevant and inconsequential compared to the greatness present. Unfortunately, evidently that's not the case here.

I never said that Hedi was a bad designer. I just said he was very commercial, specifically when approaching women. There's a difference. I'm sorry that my bitchy wording upset you.

 

[Frederic01]

Very Catherine Deneuve in « The Hunger ».
Am I the only one thinking this ?

According to Vaccarello, this was inspired in part by Melanie Griffith and Sigourney Weaver from the 1988 film Working Girl.

 

[xodaphne]

I think fashion is seeing a "return of chic," but it's a soulless chic. Depressing.

 

[CholoChic]

so powerful shoulders. I should

 

[yslforever]

I was looking through my YSL archive book for the first time and just realised now that this show is a reference to Yves' "Ballets Russes" show, Yves' first show with music and his first held outside of his fashion house.

The red and green tartans that appears on passages 17, 18, 25 and 28 are adapted from the tartans on passages 29 and 48 of the original.

The staging also references the staging of this show with some modernising modification. Both runways are raised, long and straight with the exception of a circle splitting the length in half. Betak's version seems to be longer and the circle is much larger to suit modern preferences for long runways.

There's the more obvious chandeliers hanging down from the ceiling and the "YSL" logo at the back end of the runway. Betak's version has it so the third of the five chandeliers are larger and the logo is "floating".

Simple details, the moiré green rug is exclusive to YSL, it’s the original rug from the 5 av Marceau.

 

[yslforever]

Btw, the new exhibition opening Saturday in Marrakech is curated by Olivier Saillard and it is marvelous, way better than AV, all the selected looks could be shown tomorrow in PFW and it would be the greatest show of the year.

 

[squilliam]

I think the clothes are chic and well made, and a lot of the pieces would be great wardrobe staples that won't go out of style, except for those hideous oversized coats of course, however...What bothers me about his collections is that he just has a few designs that he repeats in different colors and fabrics. Like here it's low cut tops and high waisted pencil skirts with oversized jackets, and a few extra things mixed in. I think the styling and tailoring is what makes his collection look good. YSL was always exploring and experimenting and created a variety of styles throughout a long career, it's a shame that it's been reduced to such a narrow vision. It's almost always pencil skirts, super tight high waisted pants, and dark colors.

 

[yslforever]

I think the clothes are chic and well made, and a lot of the pieces would be great wardrobe staples that won't go out of style, except for those hideous oversized coats of course, however...What bothers me about his collections is that he just has a few designs that he repeats in different colors and fabrics. Like here it's low cut tops and high waisted pencil skirts with oversized jackets, and a few extra things mixed in. I think the styling and tailoring is what makes his collection look good. YSL was always exploring and experimenting and created a variety of styles throughout a long career, it's a shame that it's been reduced to such a narrow vision. It's almost always pencil skirts, super tight high waisted pants, and dark colors.

I've just talked with "friends of the house", obviously they told AV it is incredible, but irl they are totally underwhelmed by the lack of options in silhouettes and colours, and most of them, including a couple of iconic "muses" found the shoulders ridiculous.

 

[Deleted member 116957]

The “friends of the house” should be more concerned with the dull as hell exhibits that the museums are doing (I mean… Gold? Isn’t the next one Forms or something?) than with what AV is designing, tbh.

It’s pretty pointless to say that the clothes Yves designed that are on display in Marrakesh are better than AV’s designs. It’s like saying a Bergman film is better than a middling contemporary director. It’s not quite an insult, more of a fact.