Saint Laurent F/W 2023.24 Paris

[yslforever]

The "friends of the house" are just worried of having to wear those blazers, if they aren't modified, because the collection doesn't offer much more.
There is a reason Paloma Picasso didn't show up to the show which was dedicated to her.

 

[balmain1914]

a SAFE collection that sells well as expected

 

[Deleted member 116957]

The "friends of the house" are just worried of having to wear those blazers, if they aren't modified, because the collection doesn't offer much more.
There is a reason Paloma Picasso didn't show up to the show which was dedicated to her.

Who's going to force "the friends of the house" to wear the blazers? AV? Bergé's ghost? The shoulders are silly, but I just don't think that it's as damning as you make it out to be.

I also went to look up this new exhibit in Marrakesh and you should tell "the friends of the house," you seem know, to tell whoever is in charge of promotions for the museum to actually advertise the exhibit. There's no way to tell there's anything interesting going on at mYSLm unless you dig into their media releases, aside from an image someone probably spent 3 minutes making on Canva that was posted to their Facebook page. I work in GLAM (an acronym that makes me laugh, but feels appropriate to use on tFS) and I keep up lots of small museums and galleries and I haven't been too impressed with what the YSL museums are doing, tbh.

 

[LadyJunon]

Who's going to force "the friends of the house" to wear the blazers? AV? Bergé's ghost? The shoulders are silly, but I just don't think that it's as damning as you make it out to be.

I also went to look up this new exhibit in Marrakesh and you should tell "the friends of the house," you seem know, to tell whoever is in charge of promotions for the museum to actually advertise the exhibit. There's no way to tell there's anything interesting going on at mYSLm unless you dig into their media releases, aside from an image someone probably spent 3 minutes making on Canva that was posted to their Facebook page. I work in GLAM (an acronym that makes me laugh, but feels appropriate to use on tFS) and I keep up lots of small museums and galleries and I haven't been too impressed with what the YSL museums are doing, tbh.

Yikes, a museum that celebrates 40 years of fashion history should be a bit more proud of its existence.

And on Vaccarello's collection, while he is a constant favourite and my second favourite CD at YSL (after Pilati), this isn't his best.

The linebacker shoulders were cool, but we didn't need them on 39 out of the 50 looks. Narrow a wild unwearable idea like that to 3 to 5 looks tops. The same goes for the tank top + pencil skirt combo, reduce them.

I don't mind neutrals, but it would've nice to see him take the "Ballets Russes" undertones (the tartans, the shawls, the runway itself) a bit further.

Maybe two or three accent colours (maybe a bright fuschia, a deep turquoise and faded marigold) and some floral or lace embellishments (à la Spring '18) would have done the job.

 

[Alien Sex Friend]

I also went to look up this new exhibit in Marrakesh and you should tell "the friends of the house," you seem know, to tell whoever is in charge of promotions for the museum to actually advertise the exhibit. There's no way to tell there's anything interesting going on at mYSLm unless you dig into their media releases, aside from an image someone probably spent 3 minutes making on Canva that was posted to their Facebook page. I work in GLAM (an acronym that makes me laugh, but feels appropriate to use on tFS) and I keep up lots of small museums and galleries and I haven't been too impressed with what the YSL museums are doing, tbh.

Saint laurent isn’t releasing any PR support: they don’t push their advertising, runway, backstage, shows in any kind of press, and do nothing from a pr standpoint apart from dressing advocates of the brand and pushing collections into magazines shootings, guess they make it intentionally because they feel like everyone is buzzing around even without it, however it’s a super dumb policy, plus they almost silent at their social media, they release like 2 posts per week and that’s it. All social media is built on layout of their account. This is so démodé as if we’re in 2017.

 

[Deleted member 116957]

@Alien Sex Friend I'm talking about the museum exhibitions, not the Saint Laurent brand.

 

[yslforever]

Who's going to force "the friends of the house" to wear the blazers? AV? Bergé's ghost? The shoulders are silly, but I just don't think that it's as damning as you make it out to be.

I also went to look up this new exhibit in Marrakesh and you should tell "the friends of the house," you seem know, to tell whoever is in charge of promotions for the museum to actually advertise the exhibit. There's no way to tell there's anything interesting going on at mYSLm unless you dig into their media releases, aside from an image someone probably spent 3 minutes making on Canva that was posted to their Facebook page. I work in GLAM (an acronym that makes me laugh, but feels appropriate to use on tFS) and I keep up lots of small museums and galleries and I haven't been too impressed with what the YSL museums are doing, tbh.

There are paid "friends of the house", with contracts in the range of 800k€ to 3m € a year, which have contractual duties to wear SL for all their public and official appearances.
There are other "friends of the house", actual friends of YSL or PB, which are not on the Kering payroll.
The mYSLm opened yesterday, but I was at the opening the days before, and I just saw it, so take it like you.
Gold is a transitionnal exhibition, the director responsible for it was poached by Dior to manage their Galerie (reliefs for the museums and good luck to Dior).

 

[yslforever]

Yikes, a museum that celebrates 40 years of fashion history should be a bit more proud of its existence.

The celebration of the 60th anniversary of the first YSL show was the "YSL in museums" exhibition, before Gold, that took place in various museums in Paris: Orsay, Pompidou, Picasso, Louvre etc.. Originally it was 60 years= 60 museums, and the 60 museums were already approved; from LA to Detroit, Savannah, Miami, Antibes, Zurich, Kyiv and Kyoto.
But Covid happened and it was impossible to send the artifacts and people around the world like that. The mYSLp scaled back and focused on French museums instead.

 

[yslforever]

@Alien Sex Friend I'm talking about the museum exhibitions, not the Saint Laurent brand.

Both museums have hourly and daily visitors capacities, to insure a certain quality of visit, and they are operating at nearly full capacity. The Marrakech one reached 450,000 visitors last year and is expecting 500,000 this year. So there’s no need to add more communication until the new wings/expansion plans in Marrakech and Marceau are fully implemented.
Edit: there were 135 journalists for the press days last weeks, and the exhibition is sold out for this week.

 

[Alien Sex Friend]

@Alien Sex Friend I'm talking about the museum exhibitions, not the Saint Laurent brand.

Pr department in charge of everything house-related, we can only separate beauty, it’s a different division

 

[yslforever]

Pr department in charge of everything house-related, we can only separate beauty, it’s a different division

The museums belong and are operated by the Foundation, which is independent from Kering and L'Oreal and operates with Yves and Pierre money, only.

 

[Drusilla_]

My main takeaway from this collection (other than the shoulders) is the shawls - I've been rooting for those to make a comeback for a few seasons now but always thought of them as potentials on Owens/Margiela/maybe Westwood runway, not YSL!

 

[bszp]

Maybe this is a beginning of the end of this dark age of fashion.

 

[LadyJunon]

Over the months, I've been wondering whether the "linebacker shoulders" would make it into production. While the final commercial production probably won't show itself until next month, these cover images suggest that they will be mostly unaltered for production:


I wonder if a large chunk of the YSL clientele has the body shape, personal taste and lifestyle to be able to pull off such an extreme silhouette and integrate it into their wardrobes.

 

[Alien Sex Friend]

Over the months, I've been wondering whether the "linebacker shoulders" would make it into production. While the final commercial production probably won't show itself until next month, these cover images suggest that they will be mostly unaltered for production:


I wonder if a large chunk of the YSL clientele has the body shape, personal taste and lifestyle to be able to pull off such an extreme silhouette and integrate it into their wardrobes.

Products used into PR are the same as from runway, the production of the collection could be fully different, so images from magazines aren’t showcasing the collection. The final selling products you may see in stores or online only

 

[yslforever]

I wonder if a large chunk of the YSL clientele has the body shape, personal taste and lifestyle to be able to pull off such an extreme silhouette and integrate it into their wardrobes.

I'd say yes they are, AV Saint-Laurent has always been very body-conscious - latex dresses ; semi-sheer, thinner than paper knit dresses, see-through blouses...so those shoulders are not that challenging, compared to the exemples I cited. Plus the deal with Saint-Laurent is that you can always mix with previous seasons, because there is a real consistency.
One of my dear girlfriend, who just celebrated her 60th birthday, has just pulled off a sheer blouse, braless, in a restaurant, with vintage Loulou de la Falaise for YSL jewels. It really depends i you own it or not, i.e. if you care a lot about others' reactions or not.

 

[LadyJunon]

I'd say yes they are, AV Saint-Laurent has always been very body-conscious - latex dresses ; semi-sheer, thinner than paper knit dresses, see-through blouses...so those shoulders are not that challenging, compared to the exemples I cited. Plus the deal with Saint-Laurent is that you can always mix with previous seasons, because there is a real consistency.
One of my dear girlfriend, who just celebrated her 60th birthday, has just pulled off a sheer blouse, braless, in a restaurant, with vintage Loulou de la Falaise for YSL jewels. It really depends i you own it or not, i.e. if you care a lot about others' reactions or not.

Fearless and iconic. Just as YSL intended.

 

[Lola701]

For me the issue is not so much the shoulders than the cut of those jackets. It’s very square…
Maybe a rounder sleeve, a more defined waist would make it desirable for me.
I have quite a wishlist from Saint Laurent now but I’m curious to see how the jackets will translate irl…Because walking around with your hands in the pocket to define a silhouette is a no.

 

[yslforever]

For me the issue is not so much the shoulders than the cut of those jackets. It’s very square…
Maybe a rounder sleeve, a more defined waist would make it desirable for me.
I have quite a wishlist from Saint Laurent now but I’m curious to see how the jackets will translate irl…Because walking around with your hands in the pocket to define a silhouette is a no.

I have seen women adding a belt, or a scarf as belt, around the waist...

 

[LadyJunon]

For me the issue is not so much the shoulders than the cut of those jackets. It’s very square…
Maybe a rounder sleeve, a more defined waist would make it desirable for me.
I have quite a wishlist from Saint Laurent now but I’m curious to see how the jackets will translate irl…Because walking around with your hands in the pocket to define a silhouette is a no.

Paul Sinclaire styled all of the jackets to be open for the runway, so they might look less boxy when fully closed.