Saint Laurent F/W 2024.25 Paris

[plentyofhorns]

What happens if no one buys that see-through wrap? It’s basically the only look he’s offering

 

[Nimsay]

I dont get it. Do they know something we dont. Why is nobody showing actual fall clothes.

Its giving John Galliano when he would do entirely sheer collections like SS06? Around that period.

 

[LadyJunon]

Yves de Saint Sernin.

 

[Lola701]

He is a fantastic Art Director indeed. Everything is constructed in a sense where the clothes are part of the whole imagery…They aren’t the main character in a way.

Saint Laurent by Vaccarello has been very formulatic for the past few years. He has found his formula where the runway shows are build around a styling gimmick.
We had the blazers with the latex, the long coats with long dresses, the jumpsuits and cargo pants, the blazers with knee-length skirts.
Here again, we have a new styling gimmick. The precollection will probably add additional offer.

Seeing Yasmin Warsame and Binx was good! The ciré coats are fabulous, the accessories too. I think the beauty this time was quite exceptional! L’Oreal would definitely win by having him as an image consultant.

The color palette is a bit redundant and the designs, while very well executed aren’t very ambitious.

I think the talent in Vaccarello is maybe that. There’s nothing ambitious, shocking or particularly exciting about his work but it’s always fabulously presented and it’s just enough, so it works!

 

[Alquimista]

A let down. I was waiting for some great furs but all I see is semi naked women.

 

[tigerrouge]

Max Mara for those who don't want to cover themselves up in a big coat.

 

[IloveDiorHomme]

Probably the most REPETITIVE collection I ever experienced.

Not a bad collection, per se, but I felt like rewatching the same looks again, and again, and again.

 

[GoldenPetals]

Yeah I think his talent is really in cohesive direction, more so than the fashion itself. The silhouettes and fabrics are far from groundbreaking but the styling, the color palette and the set elevate it. It's a good lesson in what a difference effective direction makes.

 

[WAVES]

repetition kills you… or not.
I can’t decide it with SL by Vaccarello. It did become a tad tiresome and the colour palette was wearisome too.
he could’ve used a little more of that shade of red or navy that looked so chic and could have elevated the collection.
mostly because in that same shade it looked like we were watching the same outfit in a loop.

it was sensual and provocative without losing it’s class. and this isn’t an easy task. kudos to Anthony for that.

 

[tourbillions]

everythings so beautiful. looks like the rtw version of gallianos last couture collection. seems sheer fabrics gonna be a thing this coming seasons. the show didnt need to be that long though.

 

[ecnerretneerg]

This is why we need more female creative directors. The entire fashion month has been a “free the nipple” protest. Real women aren’t wearing this sh*t.

 

[LadyJunon]

Did they really think that it was a good idea for ¾ of the collection to be sheer dresses? I feel so bad for the merchandisers who have to sell this at full price. If half of those sheer pieces were in satin or charmeuse, it would've been a much more solid offering.

That aside, I enjoyed this collection like I expected to. The slouchy suits and the leather cocoon coats were the best pieces here. I loved the styling with the headwraps and drop earrings. Setting, casting and music were on point too. Glamorous and decadent.

 

[ecnerretneerg]

This collection could’ve been condensed down to lookbook/presentation of 10 looks

 

[dontbeadrag]

I love the visuals and the idea, even the clothes, but he should've done 3 times less of this look and include more offerings and definitely add something different. Way too repetitive and too constrained. Very chic and sexy, but feels like ⅓ of a good collection multiplied, and the rest just got lost somewhere.

 

[Salvatore]

Repetitive or not, I get my fashion show wet dreams from this, haha. It's just so sexy, chic, and mostly expensive looking. The set, the lighting, the casting, the music ... EVERYTHING ... are all just on point that it makes me want to go in the shop to check it all out and purchase and that's the whole point.

 

[gallianostan]

looks like the rtw version of gallianos last couture collection.

how on earth did you come to that conclusion?

 

[signifier]

Vacarello’s prediction for size zero girls is telling in this collection. Keen observers will note that the best upcoming girls from 2024/2034 are not included here. I think it makes this collection less than it could be. Some might argue that the ‘swim caps’ make the casting less important because faces are obscured, but casting still matters in the context of participating in the zeitgeist of modelling. Using second tier models with a few exceptions (Rubik, Mica etc) make this a bit underwhelming as a spectacle. Most of those models will go on to do not much. Aleyna who opened last season has a well publicised eating disorder. That is unconscionable to support but yeah, no one is gonna say anything about it because - fashion.

 

[MulletProof]

Probably the most REPETITIVE collection I ever experienced.

You never saw a Christopher Kane show in the late 00s? or Raf's CK for that matter? 😶 they were such a trip! haha.. they had the potential of throwing you into a full-blown existential crisis ('do I need glasses? is this a real show? did I fall asleep? am I alive? who am I?').

I found this collection more explorative (of a tiny thing -sheer stockings!- certainly not new horizon exploration lol) than a broken record. I like the pace he's found at SL.. it's peaceful but it gets stronger and stronger in the way he envisions womenswear, that has not waned for one second since he got there, or found itself in a rut. A part of me loves when a designer goes into phases, even when they're annoying and you want novelty, it reminds me of when they used to be independent, dive into things that obsessed them at their own rhythm and for as long as they wanted (not something that viable in the Walmart-type of conglomerates like this one).

Happy to see post-pandemic exhibitionism still going strong! cause it's not really trashy, it's been done with some balance of menswear/loose pieces and this is a great example.

Also, the music.. 😮‍💨.. SebastiAn? I wish he did the score of some piece by William Forsythe.. it's just meant to be on stage, with more dimension than a fashion show.

 

[Gonzalo]

Herzigova and Evangelista in front Row

 

[jeremydante]

THE BEST! THE BEST! THE BEST!!
Vacarello CONSISTENTLY is killing it. He understands when to pull from 70's YSL, and now with the dark glamour of early 2000's YSL under TF. This was so beautiful, subtle yet powerful. The staging was excellent, the casting was beautiful and Yasmin is having a great season. Love to see her, always; but adore seeing her for Saint Laurent.

I've never said it here, so I will say it now; still very deeply obsessed with them using the Yves Saint Laurent logo font, while dropping "Yves" to reflect modern day Saint Laurent. Runway soundtrack- PERFECT.