Saint Laurent S/S 2024 Paris

[gossiping]

what a great soundtrack. take my breath away


there are only a handful of looks though that are great for me. very sick of the safari look and the cargo pants, every high street store has this now. the eveningwear at the end is the best part.

 

[GoldenPetals]

Did we need 80s safari bitchwear in 2023? NO
Does it look good? Yes.

It's certainly a smart direction to take. Minimal risk but still looks 'high fashion'. Trust and believe this WILL sell....almost entirely to the Kardashians I suspect.

 

[WAVES]

it’s, as always, chic elegant and sleek. and I’m totally down for it but it could be a little more original too.

the setting and soundtrack were superb.

 

[Mr-Dale]

Beautifully modernized take on the classic YSL Saharienne motif, if you ask me. It’s all so luxurious without it feeling like it’s done for the sake of an effect. It’s done because it makes sense for the house and the clientele and that leaves it with a sense of sincerity as well as desirability. Love that palette of sand and souq colors, spliced with blacks and creamy whites…very chic. Great casting too, very on point for the brand…loved seeing those older models. And Luca Gajdus!
It’s been great to see Vaccarello find his swing, well done.

One note would be that those last two looks following those gorgeous gowns didn’t make sense t that spot in the line-up, but ok.

 

[reese06]

I'm getting bored and it's becoming very formulaic from him.

Those cargo pants are great and I'm always here for a crisp white jumpsuit and full look. Love those sheer sweaters.

Those cocktail dresses are dated but charming in a way. I can see an older client going for those because and reliving her heyday while looking very current.

I wish the menswear made men look as powerful as his womenswear does. I'm always supremely jealous.

 

[LANZO_358]

This collection reminds me of those ‘80s Spiegel catalogues you’d see on coffee tables in beauty/barber shops in the ‘90s, years after the collections had passed. So anachronistic…

I’m not the customer, but, I’m guessing the die-hard clientele simply seeking clothes as part of their seasonal top-up will buy it. Still, apart from some coats, nothing to me screamed “luxury house.” I know touching vs seeing is a whole ‘nother story but when premium and designer brands are doing the same visuels for less with acceptable quality, what’s the pull to buy YSL? Also do women really like those Daisy Duck looking shoes? #ireallywanttoknow

 

[TianCouture]

This really isn't that great. If Pilati showed this he'd be getting panned

God I miss him at YSL

 

[susseinmcswanny]

I like it, but just wondering if safari banana republic was on the trend forecast predicting program because it's not the first show with the theme this season

 

[gallianostan]

This really isn't that great. If Pilati showed this he'd be getting panned

God I miss him at YSL

the irony that pilati's ouevre was more forward-facing and modern than everything vaccarello has done thus far...

 

[LadyJunon]

the irony that pilati's ouevre was more forward-facing and modern than everything vaccarello has done thus far...

Pilati was the best artistic director Saint Laurent (post-acquisition) will ever have. Vaccarello is good at creating desirable clothes, but the actual design element is lacking. If only runway shows had this level of production back in the 90s/00s...

 

[Cocteau Stone]

The cargo pants are extremely chic which is hard to do, and the chiffon dresses are beautiful. Should have closed the show on those and not the jumpsuits.

As chic as a lot of this is, it is very catalogue looking as others mentioned. Dare I even say, some of these also look very "Vogue Pattern" too. To much reference to the late 80s/early 90s YSL couture, so it quickly feels a bit dated despite it being relevant to the archives. I think a different makeup look could have helped with that.

 

[Kimihiro]

I think a different makeup look could have helped with that.

Yes I think makeup was too on the nose— too Robert Palmer 80’s video. It’s all packaged beautifully, in a branding sense. Take away everything and the clothes are just that. Which I guess is fine for today’s luxury customer’s seasonal shot.

 

[dancv]

Loved the idea and the image it portrays but it would had been more impactful with a little edit and a bit less one dimensional approach to the archives. Very chic, very YSL, beautifully made, and womanly looking. The chiffon dresses toward the end were stunning.

 

[FashionFanatico]

It's very Katharine (Hepburn) and Catherine (Deneuve) during their heydays.

Chic, sleek, sophisticated, fierce, but also too formulaic – and of course very much retro.

Love the jetset-safari.aviator-theme in general. Nothing groundbreaking, but still very beautiful.
Just got distracted with those huge tangling statement earrings on many looks.

What happend with Anthony? He looked so tired and disappointed at the end.
Normally he's storming the stage full of smiles and joy.

I hope there's no surprise news dropping soon concerning his tenure at the house.

Even he's playing it too safe and literal sometimes, i still like his approach in celebrating the house codes with respect and gracefully. But he could be more brave in the future to make his own mark too.

 

[Not Plain Jane]

retro / heritage
meaning good and bad, like everyone already said

 

[GivenchyAddict]

^ this is never a good place when Kering bet most of their profits on you.

 

[blueorchid]

I want to like it, but it's just too 90s dusty YSL for me.

 

[Salvatore]

1. The music !!! SebastiAn always gets it so very right !!!
2. The location ! The other side of the Eiffel Tower gives it a bit more drama because the Champ de Mars as a lot more space and is closer. Love it !
3. The clothes, again, are very limited, but the sentiment and aesthetic he proposes as of late, I just DEVOUR. It’s basic and simple, but so elegant and chic and EXPENSIVE looking. This looks like luxury to me. It makes me want to go into the boutique.
4. I love Anthony a lot recently so I guess I am a fan.

 

[matheus_s]

I want to be this woman asap

 

[Delleone]

Khaki clones.

Some BOLD moves here. No handbags on the runway? Were any shown or do my eyes deceive me? At least half the models in sunglasses? Bold indeed.

Nice collection, a doozy. Haute chicery for the summer in earth tones. A visual tonic but dare I say a tad formulaic? It's fast becoming Vaccarello's schtick to select a period or collection from the house's past, take it apart and put it back together in his own rigorous way. Gorgeous, faultless even at times but Saint Laurent, perhaps more than any designer, anticipated cultural shifts or was quick to transform them into fashion statements.

It would be interesting if the house looked sideways even rather than just into the rear view mirror. Or perhaps ahead. We live in interesting times, don't we?